My sliding door right side, is very stiff to operate, think the cable needs replacing,  are there any tutorials on this? 

Thanks,Ken.

So am guessing there is a button or soft button on the head unit which does that.

Does anyone know which button or which screen soft button does this? I have already proved the head unit can play Dvd's etc just cant figure how to make the rear screen flip down. Any advice or help appreciated

SRS.pdf Smart Entry and Start System Wireless Door Control lock.pdf Smart Entry and Start System Steering Lock.pdf Smart Entry and Start System push start button.pdf Smart Entry and Start System - Immobiliser.pdf Smart Entry and Start System.pdf Seat Belt Warning.pdf Rear number 1 seat.pdf Front Passengers seat.pdf Drivers Power Seat.pdf Power outlet.pdf Internal Lighting.pdf Illumination.pdf Combination Meter.pdf Backup Light.pdf AC.pdf Door Control Wiring.pdf Parking Assist.pdf sound system.pdf

Thanks

Mystery bits of coiled up ‘plastic’ appeared on drive, almost clear, biggest 8” long many smaller.

I’m sweeping them up along with other crap, happen to look up at van roof and there was the source, a few areas of the pop up peeling maybe about 10-20% . Looks like the paint finish, (silver metallic) maybe got a coat of clear lacquer and it’s reached the end of its life.

Conversion was done by Direct Campers at Kilmarnock (now long gone) , I think Newcastle branch might be still in business.

Anyone experienced this?

I’m going to get paint shop advice on removing rest & quote for replacement.

The offside works fine.

Does anyone know if there is a fuse or relay that could be at fault and if so its location.

If anyone knows where I can locate a circuit diagram that could help.

Thank you in advance.

Ron

Can anyone help with a parts schematic diagram for removal/fitting new unit?

Many Thanks

Note:  Disconnect the battery negative terminal before commencing work on the engine

First step is to loosen the Right-hand Front wheel nuts, raise the vehicle on that side and support on an axle stand. Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel.

Remove the plastic undertray at the lower part of the front bumper and also the one covering the auxiliary drivebelts under the wheel arch.

Remove the auxiliary drivebelts and place aside if reusing, although if worn, then replacement at this stage would be the sensible option and cost effective in the long run. Tip:  keep the old belts (if still serviceable) in the boot as a spare if needed in a road-side breakdown situation.

Remove any electrical connections that are in the way and pull the loom in towards the engine and secure with a Bungy strap.

Next, you are ready to remove the top engine mount. Before proceeding, it will be necessary to support the engine by placing some wood between the trolley jack and the sump and gently raise the jack until the wood is just contacting but no more.

Remove any bracketry to gain access to the timing belt covers. The engine stabiliser bar is okay to be left in position or pushed over towards to the rear of the engine.

Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt and undo a couple of turns. Using a suitable puller, slightly withdraw the pulley from the crankshaft, remove the bolt and then fully remove the pulley.

Once the upper and lower covers are removed you have then revealed the timing belt.

It can be a fiddle to remove the alloy engine bracket (use a female torx socket to remove the studs)

Replace the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and tighten.

Now you are at the tricky stage of timing up the engine prior to removing the belt. This is a good time to have a short comfort break because the next stage will require some concentration.

Rotate the crankshaft pulley in a clockwise direction until all of the notches in the pulleys and castings are in alignment (see diagram).

The camshaft pulleys should now also align with their respective timing marks.

See diagram (below) for more information on the alignment marks.

Slacken off the tensioner and remove the timing belt.

Remove the tensioner, guide pulley and idler pulley.

At this stage, it would be prudent to replace the water pump as well as this is also part of the timing belt setup and if it starts to wear on the bearing or leak then it can compromise the engine durability and it is the additional time to replace it at a later date. Bear in mind, the bearing in the pump has also done the same amount of work as the other bearings!

On reassembly, it would be wise to use a thread locking adhesive to ensure that none of the fasteners loosen of with vibration from the engine. This should be applied sparingly to all crucial nuts and bolts within the engine.

When fitting the new tensioner, ensure that the retaining pin is still in situ. This must only be removed once the timing belt is in position and the tensioner can then apply pressure to the belt.

The belt should be positioned so that the timing points are still aligned and when you are happy, release the pin.

Check camshaft and crankshaft pulleys are positioned correctly then turn the crankshaft two complete turns (760 degrees) in a clockwise direction.

The timing marks should still be aligned correctly.

A final tighten and check on all components within the timing belt area and you are ready to replace the plastic covers and rebuild the engine in reverse of removal. Remember to apply thread lock to all vital fasteners.

Ensure all fasteners are torqued to the correct setting and refill cooling system (if drained)

When starting the engine for the first time, it should be allowed to idle for a period to check for noises and leaks.

Always a good idea at this stage to recap all of the work carried out and ensure that everything has been fitted and tightened correctly, including wheel nuts!

I have a 2007/12 Toyota Alphard

ANH10W

Engine- 2AFZE

My ignition barrel got stuck so changed it out for a used barrel. I didn’t switch out the immobiliser ring (the one that lights up)

The key that came with the replacement barrel had a transponder which I swapped out for my original keys transponder.

Now my car refuses to start and only ticks over. I’ve disconnected the battery for more than 5mins and tried again but still no luck.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Also l have 205 tyres, have been told 215s will fir  any comments appreciated.

Hoping someone can help,  

I've a 2004 3litre petrol alphard,  converted to 4 berth camper.

the entertainment system is turned on via a small circular black switch which is situated between the steering wheel and the touch screen.  The switch has a red led light to show its on. 

I was picking up dropped 'stuff' from the drivers side floor, when i noticed  another if these black circular switches on the plastic panel just below the steering wheel.  It was lit up with same red led. 

The manual doesn't mention it,  

it is a translation and only for the mpv so no camper info.

There's also a blue light at the side of the petrol cap and bonnet opening switches which seems to flicker if i turn off and back on.

any ideas?,

I hope its not for an ejector seat 

Thanks 

Kathryn (alphard and camper newby )

20250612_193641.heic

(open link in chrome and it will auto translate to english)

I see this device, can be purchased for about £150.

From what I understand from the manuals, this device sits between the regular cruise control and the ecu, it can use the existing control stalk to control it, and allows you to set the cruise control up to 86mph.

It also incorporates a throttle response controller to set how 'eco' or 'sporty' your throttle is under foot.

Its quite expensive, but if people are looking for a way to partially unlock the cruise control speed limiter (68mph - 118kph as standard) AND add a means to tune their throttle response, this may be a good compromise, rather than going the hacked ecu route!

Anyone have any thoughts or experience? this is a toyota specific model, which means plug and play, I can see wiring harnesses listed for 10 and 20 series vehicles.