MonsterS

I bough a nextbase front and rear, i routed the cables around the trims, pillars etc and then used a mini 2 fuse tap to tap into the 15amp ciggerette fuse on the passenger side fuse box. All works great, then i programmed the dashcam to go off 30 seconds after it lost mains power. Happy to take some pictures if you need it.

Ebay, failing that i'm sure you can solder some wire to override the dead connector.

Actually they should all be on the forum if needed.

Nice

@Karl C the only way is aphysical machine as a vm does not always pass everything through as needed. I remeber my daughters Toyota Aygo being a 433mhz but if you take a key to any key shop that cuts them and they could tell you what transponder frequency it is.

You may find that will shred the first gear actuator.

Nope, however if converted to LED it will fail forexternal headlights please see from gov.uk "Section 4.1.4 of the current MOT inspection manuals for both motorcycles and cars and passenger vehicles states ‘Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.’" Reference https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions/mot-special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions

Hi, Techstream does not work on virtual machines as it looses packets, i had this problem and had to install it on a physical windows machine

Well enjoy your new Alphard.

How do you mean a push in the back?

It's the virtual machine. Never works correctly. Try a physical hard drive and in a laptop. I had the same and as soon as I put it 9n the laptop it worked.

Personally I just use a star Allen key tap it in and unscrew. Then replace with screws. But that's just me

Pull the rearpanel off the boot and there wires will be there. Splice the cable to attach your camera

Cost me 3 hours rs labour plus parts. Total of 500ish quid

oh my, check the vehicle wiring diagrams in the service sections.

Rojie is correct. You can take the power from center box and rum some cables to the back, that's what I did. Or get a inverter installed for a fridge and have a leisure battery installed. I think I did post some wiring diagrams in this area.

You need the mongoose connector

Every 75,000 miles or every 3 years.

Could be the imobiliser chip, you said you had a new Ignition barrell fitted. Was it programmed afterwards to match your master key?

The only way would be to repin the connectors, as each vehicle is different. There should be some wiring diagrams on the manual section i put in last year. If not I can spool up my virtual machine with Toyota's wiring on it and have a look.

The all use the same runners, the seats will lock in the slider and open the catch. To remove the runner you have to unbolt it from the underside of the vehicle i believe.

any bodyshop will be able to match the paint without any issues.

It's normal to get shavings in there that's why there is magnets. Over time the gear box will shave a little. So only be concerned if you have any gearbox problems such as gears slipping, grinding, problems getting into gears or surging. Other than that just give the gear box 3 - 4 flushs of fluid, leaving around 30 - 40 miles per flush as half is contained within the gearbox itself.

Check all the earth straps, sometimes it can be a leaky/bad earth.