Catweazle Posted October 4, 2022 Posted October 4, 2022 Hi, Continuing with this theme as I've reached a strange impasse with my key.... I have 2 genuine Gen 1 Toyota keys with 4 buttons, 1 Grey master key with no electrics, and a fob with 3 buttons for lock/unlock/boot. Everything works as it should. 1 of the keys with 4 buttons has worn out, and the buttons are falling out. I've bought 1 key off ebay which is a blade blank attached to the back plastic shell-an empty shell with 4 new buttons on. I've removed the innards of the working key and put it all inside the empty shell, and had the blank blade cut to the working key. Tried today and the engine turns over, but won't start. All the buttons on the new shell work. Any ideas? Poorly cut key?
Rojie Posted October 4, 2022 Posted October 4, 2022 As Chris.ac states, there are more than 1 ECU involved. It is the immobiliser bit that is tricky. I have a key without any buttons or innards, the 4D67 chip is included in the key blank (if you get the correct one) has been matched to the car. It starts the car; without ANY issues with the car. This is the key I use daily with the attached remote smart key. Timpsons did cut my key, but I had the car there to ensure the key fitted the ignition but It didn't start the car. Timpsons did not programme the immobiliser chip. I had to find an Auto Locksmith willing, and able, to do that part.
Catweazle Posted October 4, 2022 Author Posted October 4, 2022 Ah, think i'm beginning to understand. So not only is there a chip in the button cluster with the battery in it, but there is a chip in the blade section embedded in the molded plastic. (centre right key)
Rojie Posted October 5, 2022 Posted October 5, 2022 14 hours ago, Catweazle said: Ah, think i'm beginning to understand. So not only is there a chip in the button cluster with the battery in it, but there is a chip in the blade section embedded in the molded plastic. (centre right key) I now have several sets of Master keys, thanks to my auto lock smith. I don't mess with any of them. How my vendor managed to conceal the poor key from me I don't know; but there were no innards, nothing. Imagine my surprise when it worked, albeit with a smart remote attached for opening doors and the tail gate. The immobiliser chip is in the key blank. I bought mine from the internet, about £14. It MUST have the 4D67 chip in it. Your machine appears to be an early Gen 1; mine is the later Gen 1. My keys look similar to yours; but not identical. I'll send you a photo of my skeletal key ! The other recent thread that is on this subject has a photo of my complete key, the correct one from the internet. 1
Chad Posted May 7, 2023 Posted May 7, 2023 HI , once you transfered the inners into your new 4 way key case , you need to program the transponder chip in order for the ignition to work- I purchased a OB2D Toyota Smart Key Maker ( cost £13 on Ebay) which is used to program the transponder in a chipped key. You insert the device into the OB2D port (sited under the panel drivers side) you hear a short bleep, insert the new key and turned it to second position ( do not turn again as if to start the engine) you will hear another short beep then it goes silent, after about a minute or so then you will hear a long beep - remove the device from the OB2D port ( do not on any account leave it in) then turn the key off and back to the second position 4-5 times. in quick succession remove the key and reinsert and start your engine - that's all it takes and your key is programmed all under two minutes. PLEASE NOTE these smart key makers only work on Toyota's who's original key have a small dot on the base of the key , otherwise you will mess up your system. The new transponder key you order wont have a dot on it but the transponder they have in it, is the right one for your vehicle .
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