Here's a instructions they provided me with, both pictures that they have stated are ANH10 and ANH20 look different from my PCB. TOTOYA 56064 ANH10 Alphard 2010-2015.pdf

Thanks Chris, I played about and slowly got there with regards to removing the screen. I'm not 100% on how to connect the ribbon cable assembly they have sent me, as the instructions they have sent me appear to be from a slightly different model; however, do show two pictures with one that is meant to be one model and one another. I've attached some pictures as to where I am at! Not sure if and exactly how I connect it to the small connector on the left of the picture or the right as the document they sent me only has one small connector showing. Also not sure what connection the original ribbon cable has to go in on the small ribbon cable connector they have provided. If it will let me I will upload the document they sent me in case it helps. Again thank you so much for your help and if this works then I will also share the exact listing that I bought in case this post becomes of any use to anyone else.

I came across this video: The Mystery of Odometer Fraud Explained, Pacific Coast Auto which is very detailed about the sorts of mileage tampering you might get on cars exported from Japan. This is often a thing that people importing are worried about. It's worth watching through, but some rough summary of things I remembered: Japanese people drive fewer km than other countries, because most people take the train to work The Japanese system is pretty good at recording km at stages: Shaken at 3-2-2-2-... year intervals, plus any time it goes through auctions Tampering is a criminal offence in Japan, but is still a thing for exports I didn't write down the figure mentioned but it's something like 1% of Japanese cars have mileage tampering, lower than eg the UK Tampering may happen just before it goes in for Shaken, but you can only rollback maximum 2 years of miles without showing a discrepancy First Shaken is more of a risk as they can roll back 3 years worth of km, eg make a 60k car a 10k car Once the car leaves the Japanese system then that's where there's more risk of shady exporters/importers as the Japanese won't prosecute Export cars bought from auction are less likely to be affected than cars bought from an exporter, because there's no profit for the auction to tamper Places like UAE, Kenya where cars are imported and then re-exported to nearby countries are a problem, because if one importer does it then all their competitors are forced to too Look at the auction sheet, especially the mark for odometer not confirmed (* or #) - could also be due to gauge replacement or 5 digit odometer CarVX is a trustworthy way to get the Shaken records and the last 2 sales (beware a trick where somebody sells the car to a friend to hide a previous record) The km is shown on the export certificate so check it agrees with the auction sheet

Good to hear you found them helpful. I removed the screen by undoing the screws that guide the screen along the runners. Then just some manual manipulation to get it out of the guide rails mechanism. Then it's the screws holding the two halves of the screen together. I will post an image later today, after work. Once it's open, it starts to become clear where to connect, and then it's routing the new cable ( I'll post photo)

Hi David Ok, thanks for looking anyway. Peter

I dont think I can help. The wiring diagram book that I have supports ANH1x which is the 2.4 2 and 4 wheel drive and the MNH1x which is the 3.0L 2 and 4 wheel drive models. The code for the hybrid vehicle is ATH10W and this is not covered. As the component you are having trouble with is a key part of the hybrid system I cant help. Sorry David