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Our community has been built by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts, and proudly run by Alphard owners' for over 7 years. As an independent, non-official club, everything you’ll find here, advice, support, and opinions, comes directly from members with genuine Alphard & Vellfire ownership experience. By being a member you can gain access to active community forums, videos, news, events and more...

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Latest Alphard / Vellfire posts

  1. I meant to update this months ago , sold on gumtree , im amazed no one bought it on here , very cheap way to convert your alphard into a camper .
  2. So I want to replace the fuel pump and filter on my Alphard (ANH10, 2006). I understand that access is via a hatch under the floor behind the front seats. Unfortunately I've got lovely flooring in place which was done as part of the conversion to a camper. Searching around, it doesn't look like there's any good option here - I'm not sure it can be realistically done by dropping the fuel tank (I'm guessing the clearance needed would necessitate a pit as the pump is on top of the tank). I suspect I'm going to have to pull up the flooring or cut through it, which is a real pity. Anyone on here done this? Got any tips?
  3. OK time to resurrect this thread again! I've now replaced the rear sensor ( the one in the exhaust pipe). Did this in August. Since then it's still the same - light comes on usually after starting the car up again when engine is warm. Fuel consumption is down a bit, kind of depends what the usage is - a long run from cold usually gets better consumption, multiple short hops when warm can result in it being pretty terrible (as this is when the light comes on). Next thing is to replace the fuel pump and filter I guess.
  4. All sorted. Great advice from Nippon Auto spares. Thank you !
  5. I can't speak to any 10 series specifics, but I have a funnel kit like this (I didn't buy from Amazon): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Einesin-No-Spill-Radiators-Universal-Applicable/dp/B0F1CRXZGK/ There's a piece that fits over the radiator cap and rubber seals so that the fluid in the funnel is connected to the fluid in the radiator. Any bubbles in the radiator are replaced by fluid from the funnel. You can keep that topped up as air comes out. There is also a stick for controlling flow out of the funnel so you can let it in little by little to avoid running out of any overflow. I've done both radiator and inverter coolant on various Toyotas and it makes the bleeding process much easier.
  6. Your reply was incredibly helpful and the good news is that the heater (and aircon) both now seem to be working> A quick recap for all the idiots like me: 1) the plastic connection to the top of the radiator: the plastic bit which has the metal radiator cap on it comprises 4 parts: the main tube (which the cap screws on to and has a narrow bit which attaches to the coolant reservoir); a soft plastic washer (fits on the tube coming off the radiator); a hard liner circle (which fits inside the connector); a separate plastic clip (which fits over the connector after you have attached it to the radiator) 2) once the connector was properly attached, I was able to put in more coolant without any leaking- not sure how significant that was 3) followed MonsterS's instructions - specifically squeezing the soft rubber hose of the radiator - it is pretty obvious which one it is I had been trying all sorts of things and watching YouTube videos - was it the heater core which needed to be flushed or removed, etc, etc. No just warming up the engine and squeezing some air out!
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