I would look on eBay. If you search for "Alphard (breaking,braking)" (some people can't spell...) you may find a few people listing parts from their car for sale (often as '99p, this listing is for one wheel nut'). If you find the right car, message them and ask how much for the bumper. Be prepared to collect, as bumpers are awkward to ship. If doing the sale via eBay, the user will typically create a special listing for the parts you requested which you can 'buy it now'. Some professional breakers list and photograph every part, but this is a way of doing it without having to list thousands of parts. If you don't find anything there, create a saved search and enable email notifications and you'll get a daily email with search matches.

I ripped the front bumper of my 2005 Toyota ANH10, first-registered 01/05/2005 — the first-generation Alphard (2002-2008), white, 2.4L petrol. Any recommendations on where to source a 2nd hand replacement

It has been a while since I needed to use Techstream, but I think if you go to System select or stored date where the code has been flagged up. Double click on the code which should open another page with the data, in the header or first line in the data list hopefully will be a three digit number. This goes with the main code P3125- xxx to give the cause of the fault, there are about 100 sub codes!!

Hi, I took my 2003 Hybrid Alphard to Hybrid Battery Repair (https://hybridbatteryrepair.co.uk/) in Glasgow. Fraser Campbell runs it, and he would be a great person to take your car to and have him assess what's going on. He has a very in depth computer analysis tool that would very likely be able to highlight what the issue is. As a side note, I found Fraser to be very honest, friendly, and very knowledgable on the Alphard Hybrid systems. So, if you are able to get to Glasgow, he would be a great resource. He definitely won't try and sell you something you don't need, so you can ask him for his opinion and advice, without concern that he would try and take advantage of you. Hope this helps!

The "catalytic converter" warning light is actually an overheat warning for the front or rear motor, or inverter. Once that clears, cooled down, the hybrid warning might stay on for a couple of short trips before resetting itself. The pump runs with just the ignition on, which makes it easier to hear it running .

I’ve just been sitting on this rust conversion primer solution to make sure it was decent. Tested on a rusty rear metal on the subframe. It performed superbly with just a layer of Matt black paint - 2 months on, enough confidence to underseal over it. The product is from carbusonic. Treating rust on rear subframe . Easy with Carbusonic rust converter primer.