Ptarmigan

I can't speak to any 10 series specifics, but I have a funnel kit like this (I didn't buy from Amazon): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Einesin-No-Spill-Radiators-Universal-Applicable/dp/B0F1CRXZGK/ There's a piece that fits over the radiator cap and rubber seals so that the fluid in the funnel is connected to the fluid in the radiator. Any bubbles in the radiator are replaced by fluid from the funnel. You can keep that topped up as air comes out. There is also a stick for controlling flow out of the funnel so you can let it in little by little to avoid running out of any overflow. I've done both radiator and inverter coolant on various Toyotas and it makes the bleeding process much easier.

On parts, Autodoc (EU based) are good for most service parts. If you need OEM Toyota, Amayama have the online catalogues to find the genuine part number and will ship from Japan (postage starts at about £20 and takes 2 weeks, add £12.50 import fee and VAT if the order is above £135). Once you have the part number from Amayama it's also worth searching eBay, Toyota Direct Parts (you can submit a request if they don't list it) and calling your local Toyota dealer for a quote.

On service information, there are official service manual CDs which are very comprehensive. They're mostly HTML files and images - I use Firefox browser with its inbuilt translation which makes a pretty good job of translating the Japanese into English. The Techstream dealer service software is also widely available online (there are knockoff 'MiniVCI' cables available, but I'm using a Tactrix Openport clone which seems a bit more stable). You can select Japanese models but use English for all the prompts - especially useful when it's stepping you through a procedure. You just need a garage who is used to thinking out of the box a little. Many garages are all about throughput - they do regular MOT repairs all day long and it's all priced up on the computer - it's not worth their while for anything that falls out of their usual pattern, eg parts aren't available from their usual supplier. You need someone who is willing to take the time to do things a different way - either someone with JDM experience or an old school village/backstreet garage who is willing to do things differently, and perhaps have you hold their hand if needed.

From what I've read (ie no experience myself) the 10 series inverters tend to die because the IGBTs inside overheat and tend to cook themselves, which can be made worse by failing coolant pumps or lack of coolant changes. I'm not familiar enough with the codes to confirm if that's the case for yours. You can find videos of burnt out Prius inverter IGBTs to see what happens. I think the IGBTs inside are in theory replaceable, but Toyota no longer has them so you'd need to get some from a scrapped inverter. Or maybe there are alternatives that can be used (awkward, as they need to be in thermal contact with the cooling plate). I would look around locally for any hybrid specialists: if you have eg Prius taxis then they should exist, but you need someone with more electrical skill than just swapping modules.

If you are able to swap in a known good battery that will be helpful. Any car battery can likely be rigged up for testing purposes - it doesn't need to be the perfect dimensions, just to make good electrical connections. AGM is better, especially if it's loose in the back (don't want flooded falling over and spilling acid, been there on a previous car...) but if you have another vehicle you could borrow the battery from that for testing, just make sure it's fully charged first and wedge it so it can't fall over. On the Gen2+ hybrids the 12v battery is not cranking the engine so it can actually be quite far gone before it becomes noticeable. All sorts of weird faults can show if the battery is on the way out... a fresh battery and a clear of codes is the first thing to try. One thing I bought recently is a USB charger with battery voltage display: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004622249401.html with the aim to better keep an eye on the battery levels and catch it before it gets too low - the Alphard is much hungrier when locked than my other hybrids.

Taking a wild guess, I suppose it can't read the outside air temperature so it can't display it and E is for error. But it could be something else. If you are able to read fault codes it should tell you which module is having problems. It may just be a case of a code left over from the flat battery and clearing the codes may make it go away.

There's a 12v battery positive terminal under the fuse box cover under the bonnet. It's under a red rubber cover in a black plastic fuse box. You first need to take off the grey 'Toyota hybrid' cover - pull out the right side to unlatch it then pull it towards you to release the two other push pins. Then you'll find the black fuse box underneath. Remove the lid to find the red terminal. That red terminal is where the positive wire of the charger goes, the negative goes to any exposed metal body part, eg screws. I'll try and post some pictures later ...

There are a number on Alibaba too: https://www.alibaba.com/search/page?spm=a2700.product_home_fy25.home_login_first_screen_fy23_pc_search_bar.searchButton&SearchScene=proSearch&SearchText=88310-58011&pro=true&from=pcHomeContent eg: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Auto-6SEU16C-AC-Compressor-for-Toyota_1601943036211.html The deal on Alibaba is that you have to message the seller and ask for a shipping quote, so I wouldn't believe the prices they show until you have a firm all-in quote. It's better to buy from a seller with Trade Assurance as there's slightly less chance of them ripping you off (you don't get UK consumer protection although you may be able to use Section 75 - always pay on a credit card). When the parcel lands in the UK you'll have to pay a courier handling fee (£12.50 for Parcel Force), possibly a few percent import duty, and then 20% VAT on everything.

I don't have any experience with this particular part and I'm not an expert, but from what I've seen so far Toyota part numbers are unique, ie if two items have the same part number then they are functionally identical. What can happen however is a difference between the part number showing in the catalogue and the number on the physical part. That means some other processing step - for example, building a larger assembly, filling with fluid or software differences - when you order via the catalogue number you get one that's had the correct processing for your vehicle. That can throw off scrapyard searches if you are searching for the catalogue number while scrappies sell based on the markings. But if the number in the catalogue matches the number on the part then chances are good that another part bearing the same number will fit.

Yes, Amayama shows (SUBS) on the second line which means the 58011 is a substitute for the 58010 in 07.2003 to 05.2004 vehicles. It's an official substitution so I would expect this to work. When they did the substitution I expect they ran through remaining stocks of the 58010 and then discontinued it. (we don't know why the part number was changed, could just be something like they moved production to a different factory/supplier and changed the part number as a result. Or maybe there was some flaw in the original part and they made a new improved version) If you have a source for the 58011 (maybe not Toyota, as Amayama says it's discontinued) then I'd got with that.

@Gamith your picture is for the non hybrid ANH10, the hybrid ATH10 uses the 88310-58010 or 88310-58011 - see picture. Amayama say it's no longer available from Toyota. I think the best bet is from a scrapyard vehicle. Check eBay (also for people breaking hybrids) and also ZenMarket for getting a used one from Japan.

That says it also fits the MCR30W and MCR40W versions of the Estima - that's 2000 to 2006. Maybe check eBay for Estima parts? Or look there for somebody breaking one and message them?

My van is full of junk and I'm away at the moment so I can't measure it easily, but I do know it's 2.44m from the back of the front seats to the tailgate. So assuming everything is flat and you are up to 2m tall there isn't a ton of extra space. If you are shorter then I think you may be able to slide the rear seat forward to create some more space, or keep it in the seated position which eats about 20cm but gives you a seat back behind which you can stash stuff. Those with rear conversions can confirm but I expect they take about 30-40cm which still leaves enough for the sleeping area. Also, I'm not sure if there are versions with electric middle seats which don't have the solid sides. I would probably aim for manual middle seats in case the electric ones are less flexible.

The 7 seater version with folding armrests can also be arranged into a similar lie flat layout. You have to remove the head rests from the second row before folding the seats. It's still quite lumpy so you want a mattress on top, but it's usable without any permanent modifications. You can also just fold one side, so you could have a single bed plus a seated/cargo section. The 7 seater with solid plastic armrests won't do it, I think.

I would look on eBay. If you search for "Alphard (breaking,braking)" (some people can't spell...) you may find a few people listing parts from their car for sale (often as '99p, this listing is for one wheel nut'). If you find the right car, message them and ask how much for the bumper. Be prepared to collect, as bumpers are awkward to ship. If doing the sale via eBay, the user will typically create a special listing for the parts you requested which you can 'buy it now'. Some professional breakers list and photograph every part, but this is a way of doing it without having to list thousands of parts. If you don't find anything there, create a saved search and enable email notifications and you'll get a daily email with search matches.