Ptarmigan

Looks like the eBay links my search found are sold out: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116129329727 https://www.ebay.com/itm/205946045739 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205815273768 But there are some 44510-58011: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389707272592 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256274497133

T just means Toyota on dealer invoices. If I search for 44050-58011 and 44510-58011 I find used ones. Amayama says they have stock of new 44050-58011 for $1341.10 but you'd need to request a shipping quote (I'd guess about £50), and pay 20% VAT on the total once that parcel lands in the UK. Put your chassis number into Amayama to confirm the right part, as there are three for the 10 series depending on production date. Can you OBD scan it and see if it's raising any brake related fault codes? They will likely indicate what problems the system is reporting.

Quick side note: the prefix 44050 is the order number for the new ABS pump filled with brake fluid. The number written on the part is actually 44510. For the 20 series hybrid the new part is 44050-30250 and the part fitted to the vehicle is marked 44510-30250. I haven't checked the 10 series version but assume it's similar. I'm currently looking for the 20 series one, main problem when ordering from Japan is that the hybrid versions include the brake accumulator, and as that contains pressurized nitrogen it can't be shipped by air. Surface freight (2-3 months) is possible but many shippers don't offer it. UK pricing is about £1700, Japan (Nengun) would be about £1200 after VAT and air freight, but they don't offer sea freight. On used parts, if the accumulator is failing the ABS pump runs often (about every 15 seconds on mine) which wears out the pump. The accumulators also lose gas over time. So a used part is a lottery. It is possible to replace the brushes in the motor (see AliExpress which also has new motors, if you trust them...) but that doesn't deal with the accumulator. It looks like it might be possible to swap the accumulator from another vehicle. The hybrid uses the MZ-135 accumulator made by NOK, which is the same as the Gen2 Prius. Accumulators for the ~2023/4 C-HR are fairly new and cheap - looks different but similar size and may be the same screw thread. I bought one but there are no manufacturer markings to look up the spec. I might try that swap but I'm not sure if it's a good idea. On the hybrids it's located on the firewall so you have to disconnect, move and possibly drain down the inverter, making a swap a more time consuming job. Looks like the non hybrid 10 series doesn't have the accumulator as it uses engine vacuum, so you don't have that to worry about. I might be tempted to get a used one and take it apart to see if the brushes can be replaced. Make sure you get it from someone who includes the crimped ends of the brake lines from the donor vehicle - it's supposed to come prefilled with brake fluid and if air gets into the passages inside I don't know how easy it is to bleed them out.

The same picture for the 20 series hybrid confirms the jack point is that black plate on the rear motor:

What is this battery used for? Is it an addon for the camper electrics? It says 'high performance AGM starting' (and CCA is 730 amps) but if it's just for your camper stuff then it may not need to be a 'starter' battery - another kind of leisure battery may suffice. I think the battery in the centre console is the one used to unlock the hybrid battery which then starts the car, and it sounds like that is all working. So if this is for your camper side of things, what kind of loads do you have (any hungry electric heating/cooking, inverter, etc)?

Ah, I spotted a line in the Toyota Club page: "The front transaxle P210 is built using CVT K110 components". I suppose that refers to the CVT belt part of the transmission, rather than the planetary gear set and electric motors which are specific to the P210 (unlike other Toyota hybrid transmissions, there is only one electric motor generator, not two). There are K110 rebuild kits and repair manuals. So it would probably be worth having those on hand, but it may well deviate from the K110 procedure.

The 10 series hybrid is quite a bit different from both a regular automatic gearbox, and from other Toyota hybrids - this describes the system: https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/21-11-20_faq_hybrid_thsc_en.htm So anything you do is going to be specific to that, or the 2001-2005 Estima hybrid which shares the same setup. (although I don't know if there are parts differences between the two) I don't know if there's a gearbox service kit available or whether you have to buy individual parts. Amayama has the parts diagram but isn't showing a service kit: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ath10w/42993/chassis/3901?frame_no=ATH10-0024738 Perhaps you could show him that diagram and ask what parts to get? Edit: forgot to mention that the transmission is called the P210, under the THS-C (Toyota Hybrid System - CVT) banner. If I search on that I find somebody in Australia selling aftermarket service parts: https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/hybrid-transmission/P210/ I wouldn't buy those, but it's a useful clue as to which parts to get from Toyota. As the THS-C uses a CVT belt, that would probably be on my list, as is the gasket, probably the seals and it'll need the right CVT fluid which is Toyota's TC transmission fluid. The garage should be able to confirm. If there is something actually damaged inside it, they don't show the breakdown of internal parts so it may not be possible to get them without taking them from a scrap unit or buying a new transmission (~$3000). But cross that bridge if you come to it.

One thing though, that appears to be a picture of the fan shroud (the plastic around the fan blades) not the radiator itself, which is made of aluminium. So if you need the aluminum part I wouldn't go searching for the Denso part as that'll get you the fan plastic. If you need the fan motor or blades those will be different parts - the Amayama page has them.

I think 122070-0422 is the Denso part number rather than the Toyota part number (which are usually 5+5 digits not 6+4; the D on the marking is Denso's logo). Looking at Amayama for an ANH10 (but you should enter your chassis number to confirm): https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ANH10W/36857/engine/1603 it looks to be Toyota part 16041-28610 for the radiator itself in a 2006. If you have a different year, the 3.5 or the hybrid then it will be different - search Amayama with your chassis number.

I think the car is down on hybrid power until I can do a battery rebuild, so I wouldn't like to comment on the umph until that's sorted The Gen2 Alphard has 110kW of electric power while the Gen1 has only 13kW. I believe the Gen2 Alphard's hybrid system is basically the same as the 2006-19 Estima, as that has the same battery configuration (double decker battery between the front seats). They aren't 18650 cells, they're NiMH blades in both 8 and 12 cell versions (9.6V and 14.4V nominal), totalling 244.8V. There are 15 voltage taps readable from Techstream; the 8 cell batteries are doubled up so the voltage is of a 16S configuration (19.2V nominal). The Gen1 Alphard Hybrid shares the same battery configuration as the Prius - 6 cell blades making 201.6V - under the front seats (indeed a popular swap is with a modern Gen3 or Gen4 Prius battery). Aside from the battery, from what I've seen so far the way the hybrid system is organised looks similar to the Gen3 Prius (and relatives, eg 2013-20 Yaris Hybrid which has the same 3rd gen hybrid system as the Prius C), however the ABS looks more similar to the Gen2 Prius setup.

Gamith has covered what I'd do. First give it an OBD scan and note fault codes. It is likely to be screaming lots of codes as so much isn't working. Any OBD tool should be able to read the codes, it doesn't need to be fancy. Then, based on any clues given by the scan, work through the fuseboxes checking all the fuses. Also look for any signs of corrosion. Next, pull the relays and check they operate correctly when 12v is applied to the coil: you can find out the coil with a multimeter because it typically is a pair of pins with a resistance of tens or hundreds of ohms, while the contacts read as either 0 ohms or off the scale. Also don't forget grounding. The fuses control power flow from the positive side of the battery, but the negative side of all your auxiliaries are all connected together, often via the chassis. If lots of auxiliaries share a ground then a bad or corroded connection can affect them all. It's worth taking a thorough look for anything that might be corrosion near wiring. I don't have a wiring diagram for the non hybrid, but perhaps someone has one?

It looks like the setup is that it's a 'man in the middle' of the resistive touch panel. Resistive touch uses 4 wires (X+, X-, Y+, Y-) and it seems like this unit has two sets of 4 wires, one in from the display and one out to the native head unit. That means it can intercept touches when it's showing Android and forward them on when showing a screen from the native head unit. When both are combined on one connector you get 8 wires into the Android unit. I can't quite work out the wiring from the pictures as to where the 2x4 to 8 combiner is going (is it the small board with top/bottom/left connectors, or the yellow board?) but the empty connector on the yellow board has a different shape, so maybe it's used with a different model of Android unit with different connectors. Often this kind of thing is like a kit of Lego that you build for different vehicles - the bits can often be found on AliExpress as generic adapter boards. Often they include various connectors of different sizes in parallel and you just connect the one you have. (That was a long way of saying I don't know, but could probably work it out with some clearer pictures. Anyhow, I don't think it's important)

Ah, the above seems only to be the battery cooling fan. This is the Hybrid Control System section. I think the HWP signal on hdam0430.pdf stands for 'Hybrid Water Pump' or similar - I can't find a translator that copes with vertical Japanese text to confirm. hdam0410.pdf hdam0420.pdf hdam0430.pdf hdam0440.pdf hdam0450.pdf hdam0460.pdf hdam0470.pdf hdam0480.pdf hdam0490.pdf hdam04a0.pdf hdam04b0.pdf

Attached is the Engine -> Cooling Fan System -> HV battery section. Unfortunately my PDF translator didn't like the text so you'll have to translate the text yourself. Other sections you might be interested in include: Hybrid -> Hybrid Control System (11 pages) Heater & Air Conditioner -> Heater & Air Conditioner System -> 200307-200606 (6 pages) Heater & Air Conditioner -> Heater & Air Conditioner System -> 200606- (6 pages) Happy to dig out any for you. hdam0610.pdf

I came across this video: The Mystery of Odometer Fraud Explained, Pacific Coast Auto which is very detailed about the sorts of mileage tampering you might get on cars exported from Japan. This is often a thing that people importing are worried about. It's worth watching through, but some rough summary of things I remembered: Japanese people drive fewer km than other countries, because most people take the train to work The Japanese system is pretty good at recording km at stages: Shaken at 3-2-2-2-... year intervals, plus any time it goes through auctions Tampering is a criminal offence in Japan, but is still a thing for exports I didn't write down the figure mentioned but it's something like 1% of Japanese cars have mileage tampering, lower than eg the UK Tampering may happen just before it goes in for Shaken, but you can only rollback maximum 2 years of miles without showing a discrepancy First Shaken is more of a risk as they can roll back 3 years worth of km, eg make a 60k car a 10k car Once the car leaves the Japanese system then that's where there's more risk of shady exporters/importers as the Japanese won't prosecute Export cars bought from auction are less likely to be affected than cars bought from an exporter, because there's no profit for the auction to tamper Places like UAE, Kenya where cars are imported and then re-exported to nearby countries are a problem, because if one importer does it then all their competitors are forced to too Look at the auction sheet, especially the mark for odometer not confirmed (* or #) - could also be due to gauge replacement or 5 digit odometer CarVX is a trustworthy way to get the Shaken records and the last 2 sales (beware a trick where somebody sells the car to a friend to hide a previous record) The km is shown on the export certificate so check it agrees with the auction sheet