Ptarmigan

One thing though, that appears to be a picture of the fan shroud (the plastic around the fan blades) not the radiator itself, which is made of aluminium. So if you need the aluminum part I wouldn't go searching for the Denso part as that'll get you the fan plastic. If you need the fan motor or blades those will be different parts - the Amayama page has them.

I think 122070-0422 is the Denso part number rather than the Toyota part number (which are usually 5+5 digits not 6+4; the D on the marking is Denso's logo). Looking at Amayama for an ANH10 (but you should enter your chassis number to confirm): https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ANH10W/36857/engine/1603 it looks to be Toyota part 16041-28610 for the radiator itself in a 2006. If you have a different year, the 3.5 or the hybrid then it will be different - search Amayama with your chassis number.

I think the car is down on hybrid power until I can do a battery rebuild, so I wouldn't like to comment on the umph until that's sorted The Gen2 Alphard has 110kW of electric power while the Gen1 has only 13kW. I believe the Gen2 Alphard's hybrid system is basically the same as the 2006-19 Estima, as that has the same battery configuration (double decker battery between the front seats). They aren't 18650 cells, they're NiMH blades in both 8 and 12 cell versions (9.6V and 14.4V nominal), totalling 244.8V. There are 15 voltage taps readable from Techstream; the 8 cell batteries are doubled up so the voltage is of a 16S configuration (19.2V nominal). The Gen1 Alphard Hybrid shares the same battery configuration as the Prius - 6 cell blades making 201.6V - under the front seats (indeed a popular swap is with a modern Gen3 or Gen4 Prius battery). Aside from the battery, from what I've seen so far the way the hybrid system is organised looks similar to the Gen3 Prius (and relatives, eg 2013-20 Yaris Hybrid which has the same 3rd gen hybrid system as the Prius C), however the ABS looks more similar to the Gen2 Prius setup.

Gamith has covered what I'd do. First give it an OBD scan and note fault codes. It is likely to be screaming lots of codes as so much isn't working. Any OBD tool should be able to read the codes, it doesn't need to be fancy. Then, based on any clues given by the scan, work through the fuseboxes checking all the fuses. Also look for any signs of corrosion. Next, pull the relays and check they operate correctly when 12v is applied to the coil: you can find out the coil with a multimeter because it typically is a pair of pins with a resistance of tens or hundreds of ohms, while the contacts read as either 0 ohms or off the scale. Also don't forget grounding. The fuses control power flow from the positive side of the battery, but the negative side of all your auxiliaries are all connected together, often via the chassis. If lots of auxiliaries share a ground then a bad or corroded connection can affect them all. It's worth taking a thorough look for anything that might be corrosion near wiring. I don't have a wiring diagram for the non hybrid, but perhaps someone has one?

It looks like the setup is that it's a 'man in the middle' of the resistive touch panel. Resistive touch uses 4 wires (X+, X-, Y+, Y-) and it seems like this unit has two sets of 4 wires, one in from the display and one out to the native head unit. That means it can intercept touches when it's showing Android and forward them on when showing a screen from the native head unit. When both are combined on one connector you get 8 wires into the Android unit. I can't quite work out the wiring from the pictures as to where the 2x4 to 8 combiner is going (is it the small board with top/bottom/left connectors, or the yellow board?) but the empty connector on the yellow board has a different shape, so maybe it's used with a different model of Android unit with different connectors. Often this kind of thing is like a kit of Lego that you build for different vehicles - the bits can often be found on AliExpress as generic adapter boards. Often they include various connectors of different sizes in parallel and you just connect the one you have. (That was a long way of saying I don't know, but could probably work it out with some clearer pictures. Anyhow, I don't think it's important)

Ah, the above seems only to be the battery cooling fan. This is the Hybrid Control System section. I think the HWP signal on hdam0430.pdf stands for 'Hybrid Water Pump' or similar - I can't find a translator that copes with vertical Japanese text to confirm. hdam0410.pdf hdam0420.pdf hdam0430.pdf hdam0440.pdf hdam0450.pdf hdam0460.pdf hdam0470.pdf hdam0480.pdf hdam0490.pdf hdam04a0.pdf hdam04b0.pdf

Attached is the Engine -> Cooling Fan System -> HV battery section. Unfortunately my PDF translator didn't like the text so you'll have to translate the text yourself. Other sections you might be interested in include: Hybrid -> Hybrid Control System (11 pages) Heater & Air Conditioner -> Heater & Air Conditioner System -> 200307-200606 (6 pages) Heater & Air Conditioner -> Heater & Air Conditioner System -> 200606- (6 pages) Happy to dig out any for you. hdam0610.pdf

I came across this video: The Mystery of Odometer Fraud Explained, Pacific Coast Auto which is very detailed about the sorts of mileage tampering you might get on cars exported from Japan. This is often a thing that people importing are worried about. It's worth watching through, but some rough summary of things I remembered: Japanese people drive fewer km than other countries, because most people take the train to work The Japanese system is pretty good at recording km at stages: Shaken at 3-2-2-2-... year intervals, plus any time it goes through auctions Tampering is a criminal offence in Japan, but is still a thing for exports I didn't write down the figure mentioned but it's something like 1% of Japanese cars have mileage tampering, lower than eg the UK Tampering may happen just before it goes in for Shaken, but you can only rollback maximum 2 years of miles without showing a discrepancy First Shaken is more of a risk as they can roll back 3 years worth of km, eg make a 60k car a 10k car Once the car leaves the Japanese system then that's where there's more risk of shady exporters/importers as the Japanese won't prosecute Export cars bought from auction are less likely to be affected than cars bought from an exporter, because there's no profit for the auction to tamper Places like UAE, Kenya where cars are imported and then re-exported to nearby countries are a problem, because if one importer does it then all their competitors are forced to too Look at the auction sheet, especially the mark for odometer not confirmed (* or #) - could also be due to gauge replacement or 5 digit odometer CarVX is a trustworthy way to get the Shaken records and the last 2 sales (beware a trick where somebody sells the car to a friend to hide a previous record) The km is shown on the export certificate so check it agrees with the auction sheet

I have never seen a 30 series, but inferring from the 20 series... Regarding recalls, I doubt Toyota UK will do anything, but you can check recall status of a Japanese vehicle here (use Google Translate) if you have the frame number (AGH30-xxxxxxx). https://toyota.jp/recall/ I would guess that unless the recall is recent it has probably been done in Japan. I expect the wrap should be mentioned in the auction sheet. From what I've seen the inspector may note obvious damage visible through the wrap but is not going to remove anything to look underneath. On head units, some OEM ones can't be switched to English but a few minutes with a translate app on your phone (I use DeepL) and you can learn the basics. Most of it (satnav, phone book, TV) aren't useful anyway. Mostly it's Bluetooth, radio and video inputs that you care about. Japanese FM bands are different but you can buy a band converter for £20 or so (Amazon, AliExpress). The Japanese FM band is smaller so the band shifter typically has a switch to switch upper or lower parts of the band (Japan is 76-95MHz, we're 87.5-108, so +10 gets you 86-105 and +20 gets 96-115). You could probably also use a separate FM radio to feed the stock head unit via Bluetooth or aux in. AM radio works fine on the stock head unit. If you are fitting an Android head unit there are apps you can use with a DAB USB stick to get DAB.

Thanks. I have indeed bought one, a 2012 with a sad hybrid battery among other faults. I'm planning to rebuild the battery when I've got hold of another one to rob for cells. I'll post a thread about that when I've started making some progress...

This is the screen on the display. You can see the rear motor on the right side - when it's in operation the arrows show power flow from or to the battery. Obviously no help if you have replaced the head unit! If there is a problem with the rear motor then I would expect a 'check engine' light as the car will be down on power as only one motor is operational.

How tall is it including the loop at the top? https://size.name/en/catalog/brake_pads?length=96 finds some of the right shape, but they're 62mm tall. That appears to include the loop. Searching on the Blueprint part number ADT342125 brings up a series of matches: https://www.simplycarparts.co.uk/products/adt342125 and on the Toyota part number 04466-50100 leads to the Brembo part P 83 059: https://www.bremboparts.com/africa/en/catalogue/pad/P_83_059 which has a drawing. If I overlay that on your picture it looks a touch smaller but would maybe fit? Anyhow, someone is selling the Blueprint part on ebay for £9, so perhaps worth a punt?

Digging around suggests that Sumitomo is a supplier to Toyota, so it's possible those are OEM pads, or they could be aftermarket. It seems that Advics is a consortium of Toyota, Denso, Sumitomo and Aisin, and they make both OEM and aftermarket parts. They have a Japanese website: 株式会社アドヴィックスセールス ADVICS SALES CO.,LTD.株式会社アドヴィックスセールス ADVICS SALES CO.,LTD.ブレーキパッド、ディスクローター、ホイールシリンダーなどのブレーキ部品を販売する「株式会社アドヴィックスセールス」。自動車用ブレーキシステム・パーツの開発・製造を手掛けるアドヴィックスグループのアフターマーケット事業を担う会社として、世界のお客様により良い商品とサービスを提供します。and it could be worth poking around there looking for clues. At the very least measurements off the existing pad may give you something to go on.

Amayama says the part number is 04466-58010 which is what's shown in your listing. Has yours perhaps had any upgraded calipers, maybe in Japan? If you hold that pad next to the outside of your wheel, does it look the same size as your current pad?

For the record, a condenser replacement isn't a big job. I don't know anything about the 10 series condenser specifically but it'll be attached to the front of the radiator pack behind the bumper. Basically you take off the bumper, get access to the rad pack, install the new condenser, connect up the hoses and gas up the system. I've done this as a DIY job on a Prius. One thing, if the system has been open for any length of time, I'd recommend is blowing through aircon flush solvent through whatever pipework you can access to flush out any dirt that has collected. Then connect everything up and run a vacuum pump for a while - this will pull out any solvent or water that may be lurking. Disconnect the vacuum and check it will hold vacuum for half an hour. If it does it's ready for gassing up. I gassed mine with a can of R134a from Halfords, but it's better to use a proper machine. This is all standard aircon repair stuff. Any garage that does aircon repairs (not just Kwik Fit style gassing up) should be able to handle it. If it was the hybrid you'd need a garage with a dedicated machine for hybrids as they use a different oil and oil contamination can kill the compressor (for those I can recommend Bee Cool Aircon of Kettering, a bit out of your area...) When buying the condenser, you either want one which comes with a new receiver/dryer or to buy one. It looks like it's included with the Toyota condenser which is part number 88461-58050 (but you should check based on your frame number) at about £500-600 on Amayama including tax and delivery from Japan. Google is not finding an aftermarket one on that part number but I've not looked very hard. You may need to hold the garage's hand and/or get the parts for them as 'it's not on the computer' - if you can find an old school garage who are prepared to think a little out of the box then they likely have the skills to do it. I'd not buy a used condenser: they're lots of thin aluminum fins exposed to the full force of the weather and debris at the front of the car. They get bent and sooner or later the aluminum corrodes and develops leaks. If you aren't able to get the original or replica part it is possibly worth seeing if there's a part from another vehicle that will fit: they are just a long bit of metal piping at the end of the day, so improvisation might be possible.