How Can I thread wire from Engine Area to Driver side area in 2008 Vellfire

[Wai Ho]

Hello new here.. just got imported 2008 Vellfire in Sept 2022

 

I have located 2 suitable fuses in Engine area  fuse cluster box to act as tap host for permanent 12V for dashcam. Can anypne suggest a route for wire to thread through to driver/passenger area to supply 12V to dashcam please. Am trying to avoid using lighter socket(non permanent supply) . First timer at installing wire taps and confident enough using multimeter.   Have not found fuse box inside Vellfire yet. Any  suggestion where it is would be welcome.  I intend to introduced 2x 3Afused line to supply dashcam and reversing camera on Vellfire

[Rojie]

6 hours ago, Wai Ho said:

Hello new here.. just got imported 2008 Vellfire in Sept 2022

 

I have located 2 suitable fuses in Engine area  fuse cluster box to act as tap host for permanent 12V for dashcam. Can anypne suggest a route for wire to thread through to driver/passenger area to supply 12V to dashcam please. Am trying to avoid using lighter socket(non permanent supply) . First timer at installing wire taps and confident enough using multimeter.   Have not found fuse box inside Vellfire yet. Any  suggestion where it is would be welcome.  I intend to introduced 2x 3Afused line to supply dashcam and reversing camera on Vellfire

 

Hello Wai,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

[arthurj]

I tapped the passenger-side inside fuse box for mine and ran the cable under the trim and down the left-hand pillar. There’s a bolt behind the cover at the bottom which you can use to earth it.

 

Its easier to get to the fuse box if you remove the glove box. Open it, then there’s a little rubber attachment on the left side that you can unhook, then the glove box opens further and you can detach it easily.

[Wai Ho]

Thanks arthurj,  when I get back to base, I will look at how to remove the glove box.  Havent done this before. the 2 30A fuse holders in the engine compartment(driver side) is tempting as I can get to easily. Was wondering if there is a direct access grommet on the friver footwell. I will update when I find one but meanwhile exploring.  Found the seller did a novice splicing of the positive cable to the side door mirrors  to service the digital speedometer.  Will have to tidy that up wit h a two way and a 3amp fuse to digital speedoormeter.  Please excuse if I am going the wrong way...Still learning basic car electrics.

[Voodoo101]

1 hour ago, Wai Ho said:

Thanks arthurj,  when I get back to base, I will look at how to remove the glove box.  Havent done this before. the 2 30A fuse holders in the engine compartment(driver side) is tempting as I can get to easily. Was wondering if there is a direct access grommet on the friver footwell. I will update when I find one but meanwhile exploring.  Found the seller did a novice splicing of the positive cable to the side door mirrors  to service the digital speedometer.  Will have to tidy that up wit h a two way and a 3amp fuse to digital speedoormeter.  Please excuse if I am going the wrong way...Still learning basic car electrics.

 

The fuse box is accessable without removing the glove box, infact the glove box will not make any difference unless you need access to thread cables from the door. To remove it, open it up, on the left side you will see a plastic rod from the dash to the glove box, just pull it free as it comes off easy, then squeeze the sides of the glove box as you pull it open (make sure it is empty as it will just hinge on the bottom) then pop it off the hinges. Be careful when you put it back to make sure the hinges are correctly lined up when you put it back, otherwise it gets jammed and is a pain to get back out to align. Then push it back in place, hooking up the pole. 

 

The easy way to wire up a dashcam is to use a piggy back fuse. Saves any major wiring, the only problem is the fuse box lid does not fit after. If you remove the kick panel on the left of the footwell (there is a little plastic nut at the back and it just pops off), there is a bolt that is a good earth.

[Wai Ho]

1 hour ago, Voodoo101 said:

 

The fuse box is accessable without removing the glove box, infact the glove box will not make any difference unless you need access to thread cables from the door. To remove it, open it up, on the left side you will see a plastic rod from the dash to the glove box, just pull it free as it comes off easy, then squeeze the sides of the glove box as you pull it open (make sure it is empty as it will just hinge on the bottom) then pop it off the hinges. Be careful when you put it back to make sure the hinges are correctly lined up when you put it back, otherwise it gets jammed and is a pain to get back out to align. Then push it back in place, hooking up the pole. 

 

The easy way to wire up a dashcam is to use a piggy back fuse. Saves any major wiring, the only problem is the fuse box lid does not fit after. If you remove the kick panel on the left of the footwell (there is a little plastic nut at the back and it just pops off), there is a bolt that is a good earth.

Am parked on a London Streatham street and so cannot work on tap easily..  cant locate plastic rod...will try again later.   yes I will be using a piggy back fuse. have figured out the top is fuse to new appliance and fuse should be less than bottom host fuse. Also figured out the which way piggy back fuse should be plug in to draw 12V bypassing host fuse.  Am visiting my grandchildren and dont want to take away quality time with them.  Am confident I will get this done properly.

[Chris.ac]

wouldn't it be easier to wire into the lights above rear view mirror?

You have access to permanent and switched acc there.

 

If you want I can forward wiring diagrams

[Wai Ho]

56 minutes ago, Chris.ac said:

wouldn't it be easier to wire into the lights above rear view mirror?

You have access to permanent and switched acc there.

 

If you want I can forward wiring diagrams

Any wiring diagram will be greatly appreciated..   I got a 2.5K mirror ront rear camera with lighter plug.  This limits other future devices plus the rear  camera does not provide suitable reversing camera pictures when reverse gear engagedpreferred. and drains battery  hence an separate wire tap .  Have got a separate cheap reverse camera to mount lower and linked to reverse positive.  

[Chris.ac]

both EWD(electric wiring diagram) and repair manual (full disassembly, diagnostic, reassembly, drawings etc) can be found here:

 

http://zatonevkredit.ru/schemes/path/90a45b34bb471b85daf79431205dd16c7c467f0244212cbdcef32ace4c2ad21607a3b456872cdb27d1c6c7d878f8bbac80f22ace926c5fb60cc03873eb853f43b292ad84033de4642e

 

http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/viewdoc/AWI4O_qhU9h2CeTmduUr

[Wai Ho]

Thanks Chris for the links..  Have to to learn the language first.  somewhere in group I think, mentioned about possibiliity of getting a repair or owners manual.  I am all for learning though not everything I learn will be applicable. Thanks again. Back from visit to grandchildren and have to sort out an domestic electrical short before carrying on with car electrics.

[Wai Ho]

19 hours ago, Chris.ac said:

wouldn't it be easier to wire into the lights above rear view mirror?

You have access to permanent and switched acc there.

 

If you want I can forward wiring diagrams

Hi Chris, I value your kind suggestion of lights above rear view mirror.  My original Japanese monitor have been replaced and am left with just radio and cd player etc. Seeing all the goodies in the other members Alphards and Vellfire, I have in mind to add some accessories on independent wire taps and fuses instead of using up the only lighter socket.  Hence the  thought of using  the 2 slots above the 20A  label Fog, de icer fuse is missing and so is the marked X slot. Both are unswitched. not sure what the 2 30A AMP no1 No2 are.   My current thought is to tap on the 20A sockets , thread wire to under driver side footwell to provide lower amp fused supply to dashcam, separate reversing camera and future simple appliance like USB sockets for rear seats as there are none there. Hope that make sense. Once wire gets inside car, the potential is much better.  I also found (after removing the trims nect to seat) that Vellfire has very thick sound proofing polysterence below the carpets. Can possibly cut a slot to insert /hide the new appliances connection points away  from other original .  wiring.   Any comments welcome if I am doing anything unsuitable. I am all ears as I am still learning car electrics. Thanks in anticipation.

[Chris.ac]

using the deicer is a good idea, actually, if you look at the wiring diagrams, you will find that wiring already runs to the switches console to the right of the steering wheel, where a deicer switch would have been fitted in one of the blank spots, so you could also add a switch with a camera logo (various ones on eBay/Amazon) to let you turn off power if needed, then you could use the relay side of the circuit to provide a higher power feed for usb.

 

It's smart.

 

[Chris.ac]

also, look at the heated seats circuit.

next to the cigarette lighter is a blank switch which is supposed to be for heated seat passenger side, I use that slot as front usb, but the wiring is all there behind the panel.

 

 

[Wai Ho]

I have also thought about that for a future task. Thanks.

[Wai Ho]

On 10/6/2022 at 4:57 PM, Voodoo101 said:

 

The fuse box is accessable without removing the glove box, infact the glove box will not make any difference unless you need access to thread cables from the door. To remove it, open it up, on the left side you will see a plastic rod from the dash to the glove box, just pull it free as it comes off easy, then squeeze the sides of the glove box as you pull it open (make sure it is empty as it will just hinge on the bottom) then pop it off the hinges. Be careful when you put it back to make sure the hinges are correctly lined up when you put it back, otherwise it gets jammed and is a pain to get back out to align. Then push it back in place, hooking up the pole. 

 

The easy way to wire up a dashcam is to use a piggy back fuse. Saves any major wiring, the only problem is the fuse box lid does not fit after. If you remove the kick panel on the left of the footwell (there is a little plastic nut at the back and it just pops off), there is a bolt that is a good earth.

Thanks Craig (Voodo101)...I found the two internal fuse clusters D7(pass side) and F1 Driver side.  You are right , I just remove the 2 kick panel to take pictures of the actual fuses (see below)..  You are also correct that once I use the piggy back taps , the shallow covers wont go back in.  Now I will have to figure out which fuse slot to choose and what they refer to.  Any idea what Seat Htr RH refers to? I have not located any heater switches on dahboard.  Regards to all for the encouragement.  I started driving in '76. Today is first time I am looking at fuse cluster.. Never too late.

[Wai Ho]

Update on this topic....

Yes I eventually used the spare fuse socket(engine compartment driver side) above the   deicer socket as the piggy back was stopping the fuse assembly cover from closing.  Put in a 20A fuse. I ran the new circuit wire from the assembly through to wheel arch area and came up underneath the driver floor through a grommet below the thick padding on floor. From there, I split the wire into 3 separate wires with 10A,5A,5A fused lines to allow for  24hr surv dashcam , sat nav , and spare for lighter socket for future separate parking camera/monitor. Tested all working for a few days already.  No deteriment to engine starting even with 24 hr surv camera working.. Thanks everyone for your advice and contribution.  At a later stage I will source suitable toggle switches for  neater installation. ps. I did not involve the glove compartment or the central console panel.  ..Overall, I am grateful for all the encouragement and help to pick up a completely new skill from learning how to use a test meter,identifying fuses, understanding their limititations, testing for soundness in installation, routing circuit from engine area to driver footwell, correcting a badly wired addon from seller and to cap it all , I saved over £300 by not asking the local car security specialist.   Well done and thanks to this community. Keep your ideas coming..Thanks again