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Posted

Hi,

Apologies this is going to be a bit long winded, but I’ve been trying to fix my father in laws 2006 Alphard Hybrid for a while now, with no luck.

So, I thought I’d post a message here to see if anyone can help or advise.

Prior to the problems starting, we had been using the vehicle ok during the day, although it had needed to jump start it first thing that morning, but it then seemed ok for the rest of the day. However, as we approached a roundabout that evening, the power steering stopped working, so we pulled over. The vehicle then refused to drive again and hasn’t driven since.

 

I contacted a few Hybrid specialists that advised it was a HV battery issue and to get it reconditioned. Which we did. During the battery recon, the large 125amp next to the service plug fuse was found to be blown. That was replaced but the car still won’t drive, and the engine doesn’t start.

I have also since found that there was some corrosion in the block connector to the HV battery ECU. So, I’ve sourced another ECU and rectified that issue, but still no joy.

 

When I try so start the car, the dash lights up and the center console screen (Satnav, HV battery level etc.) comes on. The HV battery level shows 3 bars, so there seems to be plenty of charge in it. And there is a fairly loud click from the relays (HV battery) under the passenger seat.

 

When I turn the key, I get another couple of loud clicks from the HV relays, the “READY” light flashes “white” 3 times, and the center console screen cuts out. When I release the key the center console screen starts back up again. But the engine doesn’t even try to turn over.

 

I’ve not got a copy of Techstream, yet, but I am on the lookout for one. I’ve tried the Motordata software with the Alphard Hybrid plugin. Initially with that software I was getting some errors, but since fixing the corroded pins on the HV battery ECU, I’m no longer getting those errors.

 

As the car is not mine, I’m not familiar with the start-up sequence of the Alphard.

Is the “READY” light supposed to be on when the ignition is turned on?

Is the center console screen cutting out normal? Or could this indicate a voltage drop somewhere.

I know these vehicles are very fussy when it comes to 12v aux battery voltages.

 

Here’s hoping someone out there can help.

Any advice will be massively appreciated.

Posted
1 hour ago, Rory185 said:

Hi,

Apologies this is going to be a bit long winded, but I’ve been trying to fix my father in laws 2006 Alphard Hybrid for a while now, with no luck.

So, I thought I’d post a message here to see if anyone can help or advise.

Prior to the problems starting, we had been using the vehicle ok during the day, although it had needed to jump start it first thing that morning, but it then seemed ok for the rest of the day. However, as we approached a roundabout that evening, the power steering stopped working, so we pulled over. The vehicle then refused to drive again and hasn’t driven since.

 

I contacted a few Hybrid specialists that advised it was a HV battery issue and to get it reconditioned. Which we did. During the battery recon, the large 125amp next to the service plug fuse was found to be blown. That was replaced but the car still won’t drive, and the engine doesn’t start.

I have also since found that there was some corrosion in the block connector to the HV battery ECU. So, I’ve sourced another ECU and rectified that issue, but still no joy.

 

When I try so start the car, the dash lights up and the center console screen (Satnav, HV battery level etc.) comes on. The HV battery level shows 3 bars, so there seems to be plenty of charge in it. And there is a fairly loud click from the relays (HV battery) under the passenger seat.

 

When I turn the key, I get another couple of loud clicks from the HV relays, the “READY” light flashes “white” 3 times, and the center console screen cuts out. When I release the key the center console screen starts back up again. But the engine doesn’t even try to turn over.

 

I’ve not got a copy of Techstream, yet, but I am on the lookout for one. I’ve tried the Motordata software with the Alphard Hybrid plugin. Initially with that software I was getting some errors, but since fixing the corroded pins on the HV battery ECU, I’m no longer getting those errors.

 

As the car is not mine, I’m not familiar with the start-up sequence of the Alphard.

Is the “READY” light supposed to be on when the ignition is turned on?

Is the center console screen cutting out normal? Or could this indicate a voltage drop somewhere.

I know these vehicles are very fussy when it comes to 12v aux battery voltages.

 

Here’s hoping someone out there can help.

Any advice will be massively appreciated.

 

Hello Dave,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

Posted (edited)

I'm sure you will have done, but have you checked the voltage of the 12v auxillary battery?

 

Mine kept needing to be jump started at the dealership and they nearly didn't sell the car to me.  I wasn't deterred.

 

I had the hybrid battery health checked by a hybrid specialist at the forecourt and it was given a clean bill of health.

 

When the engine was running there was about 14v (can't remember the exact figure) going into the 12v battery, so I knew it was putting charge in it. 

 

I checked the 12v battery after the car sat for a few days and it was down to 10v.  So I suspected the battery was goosed from lack of use through it's life.  

 

I changed the 12v battery with a genuine Toyota one last week and (touch wood) all seems good. 

Edited by Bracey
Posted

As above, 12v is very important for the ecu's on starting.

The READY light when on means it is ready to drive, flashing - it is starting up from total power off state.

You don't need to hold the key in the start position, it is beneficial when the battery is low is to turn the key from off to start in one go.

Issues could be the inverter or the combined power steering / gearbox oil pumps are driven by an a/c motor, has failed. 

Need to get the codes / sub codes read

 

Posted

Definitely try a new 12v Battery as nothing will work without a good one. The correct one is  Toyota  D23R format (neg on right) battery part no. 2880 AZC21 about £140 from your local Toyota parts dept. (might also be available on Ebay). No need to buy the very expensive Panasonic or Yuasa equivalent. You need to keep up the power on the 12v  as it will run down over perhaps 3-4 days (mine does) and it needs putting on a good battery charger to do this, I use Noco Genius. Short runs don't charge it enough and really the alternator seems to act as a top up rather than a charger. Alternator should give out a bout 13.8 volts when running. You can get a Noco Genius 2D on Amazon for £41.69 which can be connected to the 12v battery permanently so you only need to safely run a mains lead to the van to charge (this is what I do every 3-4 days if not using the van for a long run, takes about 1hr to fully charge). Saves having to remove the battery to charge which is a pain. If you buy a new battery I would put it on charge for about an hour before fitting it. A new battery may not fix the issue but it gives you a basis to go from. Good luck.

 

NOCO GENIUS2D: 2A 12V Smart Onboard Battery Charger - Direct-Mount Automatic Maintainer, Trickle Charger & Desulfator with Overcharge Protection & Temperature Compensation – For Lead-Acid Batteries : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Posted

I agree with Paul.

 

I don't have a hybrid, but do know unless the battery is in tiptop condition when winter arrives Gremlins will occur.

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