pcous

Hi all, Our campervan conversion included a split-charge relay (SCR - far right in photo), which is fairly standard, to split the charge from the alternator so the leisure battery is charged alongside the starter battery when driving. Our van is kept outside, so over winter or other periods when not in use, we use a short mains-EHU cable (from waterproof outside mains socket, of course...),which is also fairly standard. So, to split this charge to also top-up the starter battery over winter etc, we installed a second relay (a CBE CS2) in parallel with the existing SCR, which tops up both batteries when EHU is connected (i.e. over 13.6v), but switches off when the leisure battery voltage drops (to avoid the leisure battery discharging totally in the event of a faulty starter battery). It uses existing cabling between the two batteries, so the only new cabling required was under the bonnet next to the existing SCR. Works a treat when at home, just plug the EHU in for a day once a week or so....

Hi Philip, Like Chris, I found the jltechno figures, but after continuing problems I was also given these wheel alignment figures for 2002-07 Alphard, which came from our wheel alignment specialist, who searched Japanese data. They're a more extensive set of figures, but for some values the tolerance range is narrower than the jltechno figures (e.g. toe front & rear) Toyota->Alphard H10 Series:MNH10W Wheel Alignment Specification Parameter Minimum Maximum Front Total Toe -0.10 +0.10 FL Toe -0.05 +0.05 FR Toe -0.05 +0.05 FL Camber -1.25 +0.05 FR Camber -1.25 +0.05 FL Caster +1.40 +3.10 FR Caster +1.40 +3.10 FL SAI +10.05 +11.35 FR SAI +10.05 +11.35 FL Included Angle FR Included Angle Front Cross Camber +8.40 +8.40 -0.45 +11.40 +11.40 +0.45 Front Cross Caster -0.45 +0.45 Rear Total Toe -0.15 +0.15 RL Toe -0.08 +0.08 RR Toe -0.08 +0.08 RL Camber -2.0 -1.0 RR Camber -2.0 -1.0 Difficult to know which are correct....

Hi Nick C, I recall seeing a post on this forum stating 38-40psi generally, and our campervan converter suggested 38psi both front & rear for 225/55R17 tyres. So, you could ask whoever did the campervan conversion (perhaps the simplest solution). Alternatively, it might involve quite a bit of sleuthing & emailing.... These were the weight figures on the Japanese import certificate (Gen 1 2005-07): Weight Total Front Rear (kgs) Car: Net 1870 1070 800 Car: Revenue (i.e. GVW) 2255 So there's a difference of 385kg between unladen and laden weight (which doesn't seem a lot for a 7/8 seater...) for the base Alphard, but there was no breakdown in the figures for front and rear separately when laden. When converted, there's the added unladen weight from permanent campervan furniture, but not 5-6 people in the back when laden. After messing about on a weighbridge several times, putting the whole vehicle on then the rear only (and subtracting the difference), we worked out the unladen and laden weights for each axle on our campervan. Divide the axle weight by 2 to get a load for each tyre... Tyres are weight (and speed) rated, so your 98Y can each carry 750kg maximum (1500kg for the axle overall). So far so good, but the recommended Alphard tyre pressures in the manual (34psi or 2.3kg/cm2) are for the base vehicle rather than a campervan and ultimately it depends on your specific max weight (front & rear), also the tyre type/manufacturer. For our campervan, Continental, Falken, Kumho and Nokian responded to e-mail enquiries, but to get them to offer figures we needed to point out that the conversion meant that standard Toyota figures didn't apply, and choose a specific tyre first to ask them about, rather than making a general enquiry. In the end we went with Falken front (101 load rating) & Nokian van tyres rear (109/107 rating), which the manufacturers said should be 34 & 41psi respectively, but this was based upon our specific weighbridge figures which showed that, when laden, the extra weight primarily loaded on the rear axle (gear & bikes on towbar etc...) and made no substantial difference to the front end. Of course this is just an example to show that tyre pressures may need to be different front and rear - your situation may be different.... Of course this can all involve a lot of work, so asking whoever did the campervan conversion might be the simplest solution.... Regards, pcous

Hi Darren, The 4 jack points on our Alphard are on each sill, to the rear of the front wheels and to the front of the rear wheels. I had to change a wheel at the roadside after a puncture on the first long trip out - found it hard work using the standard jack because of the additional weight of the campervan conversion, so decided to add a hydraulic jack to the kit after that....

Hi RonH, We got ours (used for a bike rack) from PCT Automotive in Sheffield [0114 251 1000] - their model no. for Alphard 2002-07 is TY3565. I notice your Alphard is 2008, so it may not be the same tow bar model, but you could contact them to see....

Hi all, I like the idea of an information/Q&A database, and perhaps a good way to ensure that searches are effective would be for our esteemed moderators to modify thread titles / extract info from threads, set a range of sub-headings etc. I believe this already happens but maybe, as Rojie indicates, this would result in a lot more work for moderators if it were to be extended. I think the wiki model was to allow some people editing rights, presumably based on their knowledge of the field, rather than open editorial access to all. From what I've seen so far this forum is generally polite and there are few knowledge battles; but these can happen, folk can become tetchy/abusive and that's where the moderator's role is invaluable. So I like an actively moderated forum, as this one is. A separate issue to possibly consider is that once you start using Google or the other big players, information about you (location, vehicle, search interests etc) becomes the data they're interested in - I've already spent time trying to de-google my phone, sourcing alternative apps that are free & open source, so I certainly wouldn't want to follow a forum into the googlesphere.... (only one voice though, others may feel differently...) Regards, pcous

Hi Teekay, Our vehicle was registered by our campervan converter, who also imported the vehicle, so I've no direct experience of the import/registration process. However, I can respond to your related question - our reg plate reflects the date of first registration in Japan (taken from the Japanese Export Certificate), I can't see any separate date on the export certificate relating to (earlier) date of manufacture. The V5C records both date of first registration (i.e. in Japan) and date of first registration in the UK separately. Regards, pcous

Hi Rojie, Ah..... so that attachment didn't work - here's the list: Motorhome Habitation Annual Service Schedule UNDERBODY Body to chassis mountings - check security Cab to body junction - check Underbody tanks & auxiliaries - check Spare wheel retainer - check operation & lubricate Corner steadies & folding steps (where applicable) - Check operation & lubricate Chassis - lubricate axel tube (AL-KO) & Inspect non-original suspension components 12V ELECTRICS 12n & 12 plugs/cables (where applicable) - Check condition & test Road lights & reflectors - check condition & operation Fridge - check operation Interior lighting & equipment - check operation Habitation battery (where fitted) - Check condition, security, electrolyte level & lubricate terminals Wiring, earth's & fuses - inspect condition & correct fuse ratings Awning light & outside pump socket - check condition & operation Fan maste – test VENTILATION Ventilation openings - check for obstructions & free flow of air Adjustable ventilators - check for function Roof lights - check to ensure free of obstruction GAS (FRIDGE NOT SERVICED UNLESS REQUESTED) Regulator - check performance Carry out gas leak test Appliances (including water heater, cooker, heating & fridge) - check operation Pipe work - check condition & replace flexible hose & clips when necessary Flame failure device - check operation Cylinder - check security Gas dispersal holes - check for blockage MAINS ELECTRICS Inlet plug, hook up cable (when available) earth bonding & RCD operation - check Outlets & permanent connections - carry out visual & functional check WATER SYSTEM Water pump, pressure switch & heater - check operation & clean grit filter Taps, micro switch, valves, pipes & tank (If fitted) - check condition & operation Water filter & housing - check for leaks & replace filter if necessary Waste system - check for leaks Toilet - check seats, flush & blade operation FIRE SAFETY DIY additions - check operation & safety Security & smoke alarms - check operation Extinguisher (if fitted) - Check correct type fitted & expiry date Fire blanket (if fitted) - check location & fixing BODYWORK Body panels - check & report on any damage & sealant condition Door locks & hinges - check operation & lubricate Body attachments - check security (including ladders, cycle racks, lockers, aerials, satellite dishes etc) Floor - check for delamination Cab seat - check operation (swivel type or bed configuration only) Furniture - check condition & operation (incl. hinges, stays etc) Windows seals & blinds - check operation & condition Rising roofs - check operation (where applicable)

Hi Rojie, Our local guy charges £75 plus vat (without drain-down) and provides a checkbox certificate, ticking each item. He's thorough - for instance last year he recorded there were no batteries in the CO/smoke detectors (I'd taken them out over winter to avoid discharging when we weren't using the van and forgot to pop them back in again before I took it in for the check!). I've attached a list of what's covered - some of the underbody checks obviously don't apply to an Alphard conversion, e.g. body-chassis/cab-body mountings, corner steadies/steps, al-ko, also toilet, locker etc, but it's a reassuring check, especially for mains electrics and gas. Regards, pcous Motorhome Habitation Annual Service Schedule.docx

Hi eric140253, We've had our Alphard for 3 years and were planning to underseal this season, but your post just spurred us on.... The treatment was upol with added waxoyl, our sprayer said the underside was clean enough to avoid prior steam cleaning, so it wasn't too pricey. Regards, pcous

Hi Tony10, I'm glad you've got this sorted. Just as a precaution, it's worth noting that campervan conversions typically have mains electricity, gas and water, all in a relatively small space, and it's worth having an annual habitation check to ensure there are no problems/leaks, ventilation is OK, smoke/CO alarms are functional etc. Our insurers also stipulate that we have a fire extinguisher handy.... I guess some people may be able to do habitation checks themselves, but for peace of mind we've had our annual check done by our local garage/campervan hirer . Regards, pcous

Hi TreforL, I recall seeing a post on this forum stating 38-40psi generally, and when we bought from Wellhouse they suggested 38psi both front & rear for their side conversion. However, we did an LPG conversion after and added a towbar for bikes - so the weight distribution changed and we needed to re-calculate our tyre pressures. Ultimately, the pressure depends on tyre manufacturer and load for each axle (front and rear): see Martin1621 - Other Tyre Pressures Regards, pcous

Hi OldWellhouse, We have a Wellhouse conversion, bought 2019, and at that time they supplied the JPNZ owner's manual on handover (of course this isn't equivalent to a Hayne's type manual for doing your own servicing/repairs etc...) They also supplied OM instruction booklets for their conversion accessories - power supply, water pump, fridge, hob, roof etc, so the previous owner(s) should have had these to pass on to you. It might be worth following that up with the seller. Alternatively, if you know when the original conversion was done, you could ask Wellhouse if they can at least tell you what models they were fitting at that time for each of these accessories and then try to source manuals directly from the manufacturers or on t'internet (I suppose Wellhouse are under no obligation to provide you with additional copies directly if you're not their customer). There was a Japanese manual, but no service history available prior to import. Good luck....

Hi Martin1621, I recall seeing a post on this forum stating 38-40psi generally, and our campervan converter suggested 38pi both front & rear. So, you could ask whoever did the campervan conversion (perhaps the simplest solution). Alternatively, it might involve quite a bit of sleuthing & emailing.... These were the weight figures we were given from the Japanese import certificate (Gen 1 2005-07): Weight Total Front Rear (kgs) Car: Net 1870 1070 800 Car: Revenue (i.e. GVW) 2255 So there's a difference of 385kg between unladen and laden weight (which doesn't seem a lot for a 7/8 seater...) for the base Alphard, but there was no breakdown in the figures for front and rear separately when laden. When converted, there's the added unladen weight from permanent campervan furniture, but not 5-6 people in the back when laden. After messing about on a weighbridge several times, putting the whole vehicle on then the rear only (and subtracting the difference), we worked out the unladen and laden weights for each axle. Divide the axle weight by 2 to get a load for each tyre... Tyres are weight (and speed) rated, so your 93Y on the front can each carry 650kg maximum (1300kg for the front axle overall) and 98Y on the rear can take a 750kg max load each (1500kg for the rear axle). So far so good, but the recommended Alphard tyre pressures in the manual (34psi or 2.3kg/cm2) are for the base vehicle rather than as a campervan and ultimately it depends on your max weight (front & rear), also the tyre type/manufacturer . For our campervan , Continental, Falken, Kumho and Nokian responded to e-mail enquiries, but to get them to offer figures we needed to point out that the conversion meant that standard Toyota figures didn't apply, and choose a specific tyre first to ask them about, rather than making a general enquiry. In the end we went with Falken front & Nokian van tyres rear, which the manufacturers said should be 34 & 41psi respectively, but this was based upon our weighbridge figures which showed that, when laden, the extra weight primarily loaded on the rear axle (gear & bikes on towbar etc...) and made no substantial difference to the front end. Of course this is just an example to show that tyre pressures may need to be different front and rear - your situation may be different.... Regards, pcous

Hi all, Correction - I've been given yet another set of wheel alignment figures for 2002-07 Alphard, which are different from those I posted earlier- these came from our wheel alignment specialist, who searched Japanese data. They're a more extensive set of figures, but for some values the tolerance range is narrower than the figures above: Toyota->Alphard H10 Series:MNH10W Wheel Alignment Specification Parameter Minimum Maximum Front Total Toe -0.10 +0.10 FL Toe -0.05 +0.05 FR Toe -0.05 +0.05 FL Camber -1.25 +0.05 FR Camber -1.25 +0.05 FL Caster +1.40 +3.10 FR Caster +1.40 +3.10 FL SAI +10.05 +11.35 FR SAI +10.05 +11.35 FL Included Angle FR Included Angle Front Cross Camber +8.40 +8.40 -0.45 +11.40 +11.40 +0.45 Front Cross Caster -0.45 +0.45 Rear Total Toe -0.15 +0.15 RL Toe -0.08 +0.08 RR Toe -0.08 +0.08 RL Camber -2.0 -1.0 RR Camber -2.0 -1.0 Regards, pcous

Hi all, Update: So it looks like there were 2 interacting problems, which have taken a long time to get to the bottom of. The offside rear toe-out (fixed axle, so obviously shouldn't toe-out) appears to have been due to a poorly assembled wheel bearing retainer - 2 of the 4 nuts were missing (nowhere to be seen I was told by our mechanic, but not in the hub, where they would have been if they had worked loose / sheared off), so the leading edge of the wheel was facing slightly outwards; not enough to notice initially, but gradually getting worse! There's been no work on the wheel hubs since being imported, so it seems this was a longstanding problem inherited from the Japanese owner, or possibly even from leaving the factory... The second problem, negative caster, related to incorrect positioning of the front coil springs when they were re-fitted (here in the UK). I've been told that negative caster (springs & shock absorbers facing slightly towards the rear of the vehicle at the base) was a general feature of old cars before power steering, designed to counteract the natural effect of steering becoming heavier with speed. Trouble is, in a more modern vehicle, particularly with the extra weight of campervan furniture in the back, lighter steering on the motorway isn't what you need.... Have also swapped the wheels from left to right on each axle, so we'll see how the jalopy fares on the next long run! Meanwhile, I was given yet another set of wheel alignment figures for Gen 1 Alphard MNH10W; this time by our specialist, found on their computer search of Japanese data. These differ from the JLTechno internet figures, so I've included them below - broadly they are a more extensive set of figures, but they show a smaller tolerance range for toe and front camber: Toyota->Alphard H10 Series:MNH10W Wheel Alignment Specification Parameter Minimum Maximum Front Total Toe -0.10 +0.10 FL Toe -0.05 +0.05 FR Toe -0.05 +0.05 FL Camber -1.25 +0.05 FR Camber -1.25 +0.05 FL Caster +1.40 +3.10 FR Caster +1.40 +3.10 FL SAI +10.05 +11.35 FR SAI +10.05 +11.35 FL Included Angle FR Included Angle Front Cross Camber +8.40 +8.40 -0.45 +11.40 +11.40 +0.45 Front Cross Caster -0.45 +0.45 Rear Total Toe -0.15 +0.15 RL Toe -0.08 +0.08 RR Toe -0.08 +0.08 RL Camber -2.0 -1.0 RR Camber -2.0 -1.0

Hi Devo, We have a Gen 1 facelift, converted to a camper. We opted for a 3L rather than a 2.4L - I gather the 2.4L has 4-gear auto transmission 2005-07, whereas the 3L has a 5-gear box. Whilst the larger engine will inevitably be more thirsty for urban driving, 5th gear allows us to cruise on the motorway at 2300rpm, which saves fuel overall - most of our journeys are camping trips away. So, it all depends on the type of use. We also added an LPG fuel conversion - slightly lower mpg, but cheaper at the pump and I believe over time (I calculated break-even around 18000m for us, assuming LPG stays roughly 50% of petrol price, but do the sums to work out your break-even mileage.... ), and also less damaging for the environment than petrol. Regards, pcous

Hi KentFam, We converted our 3.0l Alphard campervan to LPG (Prins system) about 3 years ago. LPG has generally been around half-price compared to petrol, though I think the fuel efficiency is a bit less, so probably averages out around 60% of the cost of petrol journeys. Whether it's worthwhile financially depends on your anticipated mileage, but there's also the environmental advantage (67% CO2, 37% CO, 18%NO, 60% HC, 50% particulates compared to petrol....). Our system starts on petrol, changing over to LPG when the engine warms. So the petrol tank is retained (kept 1/4 full because the fuel pump still operates and needs fuel for lubrication), but this also serves as a useful backup. Also, added a Gaslow bottle for cooking, tee'd from the LPG filler, which is cheaper than Calor/Camping Gaz in the long run (but you may have to cook a lot!). Overall, it was a good move environmentally, but our original plans to travel more in Europe have been restricted since conversion, for obvious reasons, so it's going to take a lot longer to make it worthwhile financially.... We've had no difficulty finding LPG on our travels, though it needs planning ahead. We also tend to check what the app says, because they're not always up to date. We've used https://www.mylpg.eu/stations/united-kingdom/#map and https://www.autogas.app/ Regards, pcous

Hi Nick, Our campervan converter put in an MV Airo heater (made by MV Heating UK, Southampton) - runs off petrol and is installed under the front passenger seat. It needs a 12v power supply for the fan (leisure batttery/EHU/Solar?) Fan isn't too noisy, but for quiet operation we normally use a small oil-filled radiator when on EHU (i.e. mains voltage, rather than 12v). Regards, Pcous

Hi all, Still struggling to find the reason for significant steering pull to the left. I've found alternative alignment specs (see below) at: http://www.jltechno.com/en/alignment_specs.php?brand=Toyota&ModelName=Alphard/Vellfire:H10 Series:MNH10W&ModelID=610365 I've been told that the OSR toe-out could cause a drift in steering, but not a consistent pull. So the focus now is on the front. Revisiting the alignment printout I see it shows negative caster, whereas the spec says it should be positive, so this is the next thing to investigate - front coil springs were changed in the past, so could this be a possible cause of the alignment shifting...? If anyone has any experience of this then I'd welcome your thoughts. Regards, Pcous Alignment Data Lookup->Toyota->Alphard/Vellfire:H10 Series:MNH10W Alignment Specs Parameter MIN spec Standard spec MAX spec Front Total Toe -0.17 0.17 FL Toe -0.09 0.09 FR Toe -0.09 0.09 FL Camber -1.42 0.08 FR Camber -1.42 0.08 Rear Total Toe -0.25 0.25 RL Toe -0.13 0.13 RR Toe -0.13 0.13 RL Camber -2 -1 RR Camber -2 -1 Left Caster 1.67 3.17 Right Caster 1.67 3.17 Left SAI N/A N/A Right SAI 0 0 There are significant differences, so if anyone relied on the earlier figures for alignment, can I suggest you check them again?

Hi all, Correction - I've found an alternative set of wheel alignment figures for 2002-07 Alphard, which are different from those I posted in Oct 2021 (they were Malaysian and I can't see them on the website any longer....): The link is: http://www.jltechno.com/en/alignment_specs.php?brand=Toyota&ModelName=Alphard/Vellfire:H10%C2%A0Series:MNH10W&ModelID=610365 and jltechno also publish data for other Alphard models: http://www.jltechno.com/en/alignment-data-lookup/40016/Toyota.html Alignment Data Lookup->Toyota->Alphard/Vellfire:H10 Series:MNH10W Alignment Specs Parameter MIN spec Standard spec MAX spec Front Total Toe -0.17 0.17 FL Toe -0.09 0.09 FR Toe -0.09 0.09 FL Camber -1.42 0.08 FR Camber -1.42 0.08 Rear Total Toe -0.25 0.25 RL Toe -0.13 0.13 RR Toe -0.13 0.13 RL Camber -2 -1 RR Camber -2 -1 Left Caster 1.67 3.17 Right Caster 1.67 3.17 Left SAI N/A N/A Right SAI 0 0 There are significant differences, so if anyone relied on the earlier figures for alignment, can I suggest you check them again? Regards, Pcous

Hi Wendy, We converted our 3.0l Alphard campervan to LPG (Prins system), it's generally been around half-price compared to petrol, though I think the fuel efficiency is a bit less. Whether it's worthwhile financially depends on your anticipated mileage, but there's also the environmental advantage (67% CO2, 37% CO, 18%NO, 60% HC, 50% particulates....). Also, added a Gaslow bottle for cooking, tee'd from the LPG filler, which is cheaper than Calor/Camping Gaz in the long run. Overall, it was a good move, although opportunities to travel as much have been a bit restricted during the pandemic, for obvious reasons... We've had no difficulty finding LPG on our travels, though it needs planning ahead. We also tend to check what the app says, because they're not always up to date. We've used: https://www.mylpg.eu/stations/united-kingdom/#map the most, and there's now (as people have already said) https://www.autogas.app/ Regards

Hi Steveshotgun, We got ours from PCT Automotive in Sheffield [0114 251 1000] - their model no. for Alphard 2002-07 is TY3565. Regards, pcous

Hi starider, You've not said which model, but if it's helpful here are the wheel alignment figures I found for our 2002-07 Alphard: MALAYSIA: TOYOTA ALPHARD MPV(2002 - 2007) Parameter. MIN MAX Front Total Toe -0.11 0.11 FL Toe -0.06 0.06 FR Toe -0.06 0.06 FL Camber -0.41 1.25 FR Camber -0.41 1.25 Rear Total Toe 0.1 0.26 RL Toe 0.05 0.13 RR Toe 0.05 0.13 RL Camber -1.5 -0.58 RR Camber -1.5 -0.58 Left Caster 2.08 3.58 Right Caster 2.08 3.58 Regards pcous

Hi Donm, Our campervan converter put in an MV Airo heater (made by MV Heating UK, Southampton) - runs off petrol and is installed under the front passenger seat. It needs a 12v power supply for the fan (leisure batttery/EHU/Solar?) Fan isn't too noisy, but for quiet operation we normally use a small oil-filled radiator when on EHU (i.e. mains voltage, rather than 12v). Can't say re insulation - we have a pop-up roof, so no effective insulation when it's up.... Regards pcous