Chris.ac

because the vehicle is an import, it will default to the standard rate which is now £295. That default value trumps all other considerations, even the fact a 20 series is equivalent to euro VI. If it didn't default to that, we would actually be worse off, based on weight and engine size would push us into the £480 category. so I'm not going to rock the boat arguing with the DVLA!

Teekay, if you own a Windows laptop, your cheapest option really is to buy a fob/blank key, and a copy of techstream with a vci dongle. The fob takes less than 5 minutes to program, add long as you have one working fob, getting the blank cut - some timpsons will do it, or other independents.

both EWD(electric wiring diagram) and repair manual (full disassembly, diagnostic, reassembly, drawings etc) can be found here: http://zatonevkredit.ru/schemes/path/90a45b34bb471b85daf79431205dd16c7c467f0244212cbdcef32ace4c2ad21607a3b456872cdb27d1c6c7d878f8bbac80f22ace926c5fb60cc03873eb853f43b292ad84033de4642e http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/viewdoc/AWI4O_qhU9h2CeTmduUr

wouldn't it be easier to wire into the lights above rear view mirror? You have access to permanent and switched acc there. If you want I can forward wiring diagrams

could be GPS tracker, or alarm. Is there any label on back?

its not just the swivel aspect at the front, if you look at older Regius (chassis prior to alphard), the front seats swivelled, but you had to slide them first to allow the seats to clear the B pillar. Saying that, maybe regius seats are worth looking at? Unfortunately I no longer have one to take measurements, the chassis is pretty much the same, so perhaps it had compatible mounting points.

you may find one, but you will need to search malaysian or russian groups, which makes it a lot harder!

On my 2010, the car tells you the date in Japanese, then the ETC (Japanese tollroad system) tells you the card is not inserted. It will also wish you merry christmas, apparently, if you drive it on the 25th.

could be several things, but I have a 20series so cannot confirm, do you have a dashcam or lanekeep assist? does you headunit have an sd card slot for maps etc? ETC was one option I was thinking, my one is linked via headunit so it actually talks via the drivers side speaker rather than beeping. I did get beeping when i left a rucksack on passengers seat, as it has a pressure sensor that actives beeping if seatbelt is not connected. Something else it could be is dirty sonar sensors.

for full list of options, check the owners manual, near the end of the manual in section 6.2. Copy available at https://vaug.club/kb/

You can set things like internal courtesy lights turn on as you approach doors, the level of external light for the auto headlight mode to switch on or off, how long to wait before the headlights come on (so going through a short tunnel during day doesnt activate lights), you can set the beep volume and if it is single beep or repeating beep. You can set auto door locking if you accidentally press unlock on the fob and do not open the door within x number of seconds. You can set the doors to auto lock/unlock when you move into and out of 'park' on the gear selector, or when above a certain speed. You can set a delta offset for the thermostat for the AC/heating, and hoe the AC acts on auto mode. Useful is the option to close or open all windows when holding button on remote or door. Quite a few options.

if you look up under the drivers side footwell, near the right side, it should be there. I leave mine connected (2010 model), send have had no problems with battery draining even when left standing for a week. It means I can always fire up car scanner or another app like torque, and have some additional data displayed on phone

it allows you to make changes, with the right app. I use " car scanner " https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ovz.carscanner

you always have option of turning off power doors = no beep. I bought this techsteam and dongle, you need a laptop to use it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808047632?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e2zvldr0qu6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=l_Ov49c3Q-O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY my bt one looks like this, I bought it back in 2013, so I don't have exact look any more. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134086659995?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yekqx0garis&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=l_Ov49c3Q-O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

you always have option of turning off power doors = no beep. I bought this techsteam and dongle, you need a laptop to use it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808047632?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e2zvldr0qu6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=l_Ov49c3Q-O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

you always have option of turning off power doors = no beep.

the velcro is there, it is very strong. the bolts are covered by plastic L shaped trim. I'll see if I have a photo. edit.. The photos I took are too blurry to be useful, was holding liner whilst trying to take photo. Honestly, if the blockage has traveled far down the tube, dropping the corner of the roof lining is the best solution. You need to remove the visor, the grab handles, the front pillar trim, the bottom, then top middle pillar trim, note the longer can be pulled down, the tube is held on by a clip, be careful of the liquid inside, the water in mine was warm sure to the sun being out, and you don't want any thing like legionnaires disease ( unlikely, but possible). No amount of working and feeding a wire in would clear blockage, so I blew it through at low pressure using a tyre inflator, it's pretty obvious when it clears, as you get about a pint of water running out the bottom of the car.

Bought on my wifes amazon account (she had Prime, so was next day delivery for free) I believe it was these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sinoparcel-D4S-HID-Bulb-Replacement/dp/B07K33QCGJ They were about £18 when I bought them, but inflation I guess!. I will ask Wife to check tomorrow, when she is awake

The flickering is subtle, it took me several days of thinking I was imagining things, so I parked up with lights shining on a wall after a long drive at night, and yep, flickering. I was worried it might be ballast, which is a little more expensive to replace!

My bulbs got to the point where they would flash, it took me a while to notice, and it would not happen for about 20mins, the D4S HID bulbs were knackered, cost less than £20 on amazon to get replacement bulbs, wear gloves changing them, as any contaminant from fingers will kill the bulbs. After replacing them, it may take several/10s of hours of burn in for them to reach their maximum illumination, after which they are set.

do they appear to flash a few times before cutting off? if so, the HID bulb has reached end of life, you could swap the bulbs between sides and see if the problem follows the bulb, or if it is still the passenger side cutting out, in which case it may be the ballast, loose or dirty connectors, even a fuse not fully seated.

Check your tyre pressures are equal across all wheels. If ABS ecu detects a large enough delta measurement between wheels, it will throw an error. The fact you have ABS, VCS (Skid control) coming on seems related, do you have standard 16/17" wheels?

2 options, a BT OBD2 dongle that is Japanese market compatible, and an app on phone/tablet (Carscanner), or a VCI cable and techstream software (Ebay sell these for under £50 - it can adjust all the user servicable settings, read all the diagnostic codes and program keyfobs) Cheapest route is the OBD2 dongle, should cost under £20, the android software can read codes, and set the options, you lose the keyfob programming option, but how many times will that be used. I have both, I leave the dongle attached, so can connect anytime and see fuel trim levels, etc.

it can be changed to a single bleep on open and on close, rather than the beep beep beep beep sound.

I don't think you need to remove the entire console to get to the bulbs, just the plastic lens. It should prise out using a guitar pick or plastic tool or similar.