Chris.ac

But yes, from all the wiring diagrms i have, the buttons shouold be plug and play, as there are only really 3 signal wires and the head unit is just detecting different resistance levels when you press buttons, to determine which button was pressed.

right side? picture please, usually the volume, back/forward, mode and display are on the left, handsfree calling answer/hangup and voice activation mode on right.

correct. JDM (Japanese domestic market) vs the models specifically created for export. Toyota started exporting the 20 series, to countries like China, Malaysia, Russia, UAE. These usually have codes like ggh20L or ggh20R (L= left hand drive R=right hand drive) they usually come with options that comply with local legislation, such as in China, the headlights have auto dip, Russia have rear fog lights, China with have smog detector that turns climate control to internal circulation. The headunits are usually dumbed down, they don't feature G book, or telematics, or have English/Russian as a selectable language, the 18 speaker option is rarer, as the wiring looms are standardised, as aftermarket systems are usually fitted. It is why finding JDM versions of the wiring diagrams is hard, these are controlled by a publishing house, in Japan, you are able to buy the maintenance/repair manuals and wiring diagrams on CD ROM and book form as a dealer option. I found some of these manuals and cd ROMs for the ggh20W ATH20W and ANH20W, but I'm not willing to spend upwards of £300 for the set. They are out of print, so it's the 2nd hand market only. Thankfully, the exported versions manuals are available online, and apart from the headunit wiring, everything else seems okay

The pair I bought came with a pair of cotton gloves to prevent contaminating the glass. Be sure to wear gloves when handling these, as any oil from skin will cause them to fail prematurely

the difficulty is that all the wiring diagrams I can find, all seem to be from the alphards that were export models, they seems to have different sockets to the domestic alphards. its bizarre

they call it optical box, but it has no optics. From what I have gathered, there are 3 boxes you can get, one is a LVDS convertor, it is able to take the blue square gvif connector that the parking assist ecu connects to, and convert that video signal (if you have the front/side/rear cameras and sonar) and into a single phono o/p) this then feeds in to the android unit (You can then keep the original car cameras) or you use their supplied rear camera. The next box is the canbus box, this will feed info related to doors open, climate control, speed. and provides some form of control over the configurable aspects of the alphard, such as auto lights, locks, windows. The optical box, is used to provide the signals to feed the external 18 speaker amplifier (the 18 speaker system has an 8 wire connection from the stndard head unit to the amplifier) I imagine it also supports the rear screen

!!!!!!!! Please, just type D2S in to amazon.co.uk You can get a pair of bulbs for under £20, you really dont need OEM toyota bulbs at that ridiculous price. In my 20series I bought bulbs costing £16, perfectly fine and brighter than the ones they replaced (I chose a whiter light freq)

We need to get all the original plugs from the wiring looms photographed, and Identified for several loom revisions it seems. Mine is a may 2010, and I believe the loom swapped in September 2010. Some of the headunits have that green GVIF connector, which im not sure if it is a digital video feed in for the hybrid, which on the 20series started in late 2010, early 2011 (the GVIF is video only, and can be used to overlay graphics or video feed) Blue is definitely to do with the 270/360degree cameras, parking assist, sonar overlay (it should connect to the parking assist ecu under passenger seat, but the rear camera is separate feed via another plug. Brown, im still not 100%, it needs connecting to correctly display video at rear, im thinking part of the DTV input - it may have another ecu it connects to that swaps input between dvd and dtv.

These are hybrid specific, but It would also make sense that the wiring exists, if you are up for a bit of retro fitting.

2012, in front of drivers seat under mat is small plastic panel that is removeable

Im trying to figure out my connection wiring, so far i have this:

Voodoo101, on my GGH20W, so far I believe this is the wiring for the main power socket (lots of measurements and scratching about on japanese forums) PIN Colour Name 1 Yellow +B1 2 Grey ACC1 3 Red (B?) IG 4 B MACC Microphone 5 W MIN+ Microphone 6 R MIN- Microphone 7 Shield (WB) SGND Microphone 8 - TEST 9 - 10 Brown GND1 11 not used not used 12 Green illumination? 13 Red ? 14 Green ? 15 Yellow Security signal 16 Red (LG) Reverse signal 17 Blue Park Brake signal (Short to 10) 18 Black (W) Speed signal (add SW) 19 not used not used 20 Brown (W-B) SNS2 Microphone 21 Black CANH TRC VSC 22 White CANL TRC VSC 23 Green SWG Steering cont 24 Blue SW2 Steering cont 25 LightGreen SW1 Steering cont 26 not used not used

The 20series are all ULEZ compliant, they are also compliant in Birmingham and Bath (They are actually better than EURO IV spec)

All in, £100, for official Diagnostic tool software, and spare key. A specialist may be able to get you a spare key and program it, but you will be hard pressed to find for under £150

Techstream VCI cable and software: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124808047632 Easy Virtual Machine setup of techstream if you have a semi modern laptop: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/

Blank key, ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255021256169

ANH20 series can be programmed via techstream software. You can buy a spare unprogrammed key with a blank metal key part on ebay, you could also buy techstream and the cable (connects via USB to a laptop running software) Techstream allows you to program keys, access the diagnostics and configure things like auto lights, windows via remote, the volume of buzzers etc.

basically, all the sidelights, interior lights, number plate lights use the same capless bulbs, with the exception of the small boot illumination bulb, that looks like a fuse shaped bulb. These type https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autobulbs-Capless-Sidelight-Bulbs-Interior/dp/B009ZJUI90 I replaced all my 5W and 8W capless using LED ones, whiter light, and brighter. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382904669684 Far far far cheaper than going to halfords or the like, 10 bulbs for under a tenner, I bought 20 and did all bulbs at once (including the ones above the Visors)

something like this? 6mm shaft, only 4cm diameter knob, so not too intrusive: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xpork-Universal-Control-Adapter-Induction/dp/B08SJB2PMT Although something like this has a universal fit set of dowels, and may sit more flush on your stove: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SPARES2GO-Universal-Control-Switch-Cooker/dp/B00OHQ9NAQ

if you type dometic gas knob in to Amazon.co.uk, there are quite a few options, many have the D shaped hole for that pin.

There was a site I came across that will do a full health check on JDM hybrids, including disassembly of the cooling blower motors to clean out dust etc. I cannot find it at moment in my history - I did come across the attached document detailing disassembly for the 20 series hybrid: Hybrid Vehicle Dismantling Manual for ATH20 - Alphard HV.pdf What does the head unit in your car look like? some diagnostics are usually hidden in service menu (hold down top row left button and flick sidelights on and off 3 times with ignition on) techstream does have the hybrid as a selectable option, but I couldn't tell you its capability in that respect.

Clearly its down to individuals, because Timpson's in Exeter said they cannot cut the key unless its provided by them for 'reasons' (probably a juicy mark-up), where as my local key cutter took a look at the existing key and said sure, but I'd have to supply a blank. Timpson's In Kings Lynn, they seemed happy to do it, and were interested because they had already had a couple of people approach them to cut a key, but without blanks they had to turn them away. They said if the key didn't work, they'd refund, because it was the first one they tried of that type, and I gave them the details of where I bought my blank from. Key works fine.

yep

Toyota engine codes ending with -FE are safe to use E10. If you regularly drive the vehicle and allow the tank to get low, you should be fine. There is a minor performance hit which will reduce your MPG over E5 fuel, so the cost difference starts to become negligable. If you can afford the slightly more expensive E5, keep using that, I think the main issue is if you keep swapping back and forth, as the ECU needs to relearn trim levels and feed rates, which means each time you change fuel type you will get lower MPG for a portion of the tank while it relearns.

cost I think £12, at one of those booths attached to Sainsbury's. edit