Chris.ac

Hazard switch highlighted on the right, stalk for indicators on left

when fitting the android unit, did you splice in to any wiring? attached wiring diagram for the hazards/turn signals, you may have shorted something to ground on the indicator side, the hazard feed is seperate. http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339i0307000423_base.html

yeah, this combo is for Gen 2, you cannot use it whilst using radar cruise, I imagine all sorts of calibration/monitoring and brake/accelration control is built in to the additional ECU that interprets radar distancing data against the visual imagery from the Lane assist camera setup. A choice needs to be made as to an increased limit for cruise, or self adjusting for distance in traffic flow.

isnt there some app on iphone that lets you use the cameras to take a 3d model image of an object - is there a way to use this to create a file compatible with a piece of software?

https://toyota.epc-data.com/alphard/ath10w/32238/electric/8611/

looks nice, but i really like the functionality of the original cameras, they are perfectly calibrated for reversing into spaces and kerbside parking, and the guidelines work flawlessly.. SO we need a modern HD screen like this, but with the inputs for the OEM parking assist ecu.

No problem Rojie. always glad to help if possible

definitely 'break out' boxes that are detailed by asterixis in the drawings dependant on the trim level of the vehicle, for those dampers. Did your old dampers have a letter marking? you look it up in this box and it tells you the type of damper you need. There are ones for cold weather region alphards, and ones for power doors. So maybe subtle differences in pressure which may explain why they are not holding the door up as far? On my old regius I would occasionally almost scalp myself because the door didn't extend fully in the cold. I dont think its the motor, that is only required to get the door to the critical point where the pistons take over

no power boot for me, also the chassis base is different for the 10 vs 20 series, so I imagine the mounting points are not in the same location. I wonder if the offline official toyota EPC will give you a more accurate part number vs the online tools

'mechanic not sure' - sounds like hand rubbing and pound signs! A quick fix - do not break the 70mph speed limit! haha

there are several codes for the struts, translating it looks like the code for power back door is different to unpowered

Honestly, having seen the conflicting messages about what works and what doesnt, I am not confident to offer a recommendation. Toyota didn't embrace the OBD standards well on earlier vehicles. My own adaptor I bought in 2013. it claims to be an ELM327 v1.5 (ELM did not release 1.5) but diagnostic lists it at best supporting up to 1.4 standard.

Hi, thats a lovely colour. I attached oil filter location and service instructions. The middle headrest for the rear is stored in the back zipper pocket of the seats. anh20 oilfilter instructions.pdf anh20 oilfilter.pdf

http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339i0307000283_base.html Connector H at stereo end: http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339i0307000017_base.html That should get you started.

yeah, certainly need to be flexible, and they are those micro fuses so a decent set of long nose pliers needed! Definately be sure to check the dome fuse, as it provides power to the receiver module for central locking:

Great news, a little hassle, but considerably cheaper than an aftermarket kit fitted by an installer! I do wonder why Toyota thought this simple control stalk was a worthy cost cutting/optional extra! On the pre-facelift models, this wouldnt work without the more expensive controllers, because it was a mechanical throttle cable.

Yeah, its why i asked to post an image of the dongle, some of the cheaper ones do not have the extra chip fitted that uses the older japanese protocols. its usually fitted on a small daughter board in the dongle. Glad you got a decent one at last! haha, at least now you are sorted for older japanese vehicles

http://eightseaters.blogspot.com/2009/12/location-of-fuses-in-toyota-alphard.html

Do your interior lights near windscreen work? did you look on the passenger side from underneath the panel? you have an image of the relay box, but there should also be a fuse box

http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339i0307000018.html location of the fuses and wiring diagrams

also - from inside, with all the doors closed, see if the switch for the boot light turns the light on/off, it shouldnt do anything if the boot is closed properly, but if that is lighting up, it may be your boot that is not closing properly rather than one of the 4 doors

try actuating the little plunger switch on the drivers door pillar a few times to see if maybe its not pushing in far enough when door is closed, you can usually remove the screw holding it in and pop the switch out too - if this turns off the light on the dash, then the switch is faulty

this will definately be linked to your door indicator on your dash too. Try turning your courtesy/dome lights to 'door opened' mode, if they are lit up with all the doors shut, then you may have a dodgy door switch

flashing car = immobiliser is active green light near key hole? photo? on my older Regius, there was a plastic ring around the ignition barrel that illuminated when the drivers door was opened, so you could see where to put the key, in the dark.

someone needs to archive that site, as the owner stopped supporting it a few years back.