Chris.ac

A few months late, but this page shows dimensions, with sketches you can open and zoom in to for 2004 model http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339k0205589002.html

could you show image of the dongle, some of them do not have the chip fitted that can communicate with JDM protocol

is it a blanking pin, or is it a piece of plastic tag that is supposed to 'lock' the pin in place to stop it getting pulled out? can you see through, i.e. is there a actual hole all the way through for the pin to go?

https://www.youtube.com/c/TCsAnythingGoes/videos He has many good videos, replacing belt, cleaning the rear heater matrix, various strip downs etc

just connect to the red and white RCA connectors and select AUX on the headunit, because I am unsure how to disassemble the middle console on the 10 series, I am unsure of the way its wired up - but on mine, the RCA connectors are able to be removed from their holder and theoretically rerouted up through the console

Yes, by all accounts, the box that ben will fit (similar to the one posted in my pdf) 'should' have an extra video input, this could be a Digital TV box. The system installed comprises an android media box, that either uses the aux input, or sits inbetween the existing GVIF connector for the navigation system or parking assist system. It then adds a small board that intercepts the touchscreen and either passes it to the headunit or the android box depending on what is displayed on the screen. So you are really just piggybacking a video signal on to a video signal

just use stereo phono to 3.5mm stereo jack connected to the aux in on the rear of centre console. perhaps opening up the rear centre console and redirecting the rca connectors with an extension cable to wherever you need is the simplest, cheapest option. you could also get one of those adaptors that use a radio frequency, they often have stereo inputs too. like this one, yes its on Amazon, im sure I will get in trouble for posting links one day, but this is for an example. Adds audio input, usb storage, sdcard, 2 additional USB charging ports, a remote and controls. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clydek-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Charging/dp/B08DCTCZ2K/ref=sr_1_9?c=ts&keywords=Car+Audio+FM+Transmitters&qid=1649015535&s=electronics&sr=1-9&ts_id=528666031

So it looks the wiring logic will keep the right door brake light permanently illuminated when fog is on

Rear fog is in the right hand side tail/brake light in the door. The connector to this has a 4 wire connector. (connector V18)

Message me, or ask here if you need help, all this info came from http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/index2.html

factory rear fog switch goes in 2nd switch slot (number 8 in diagram) so your original wiring and connectivity to the back of the car will be miles easier and 'oem' to use as it will be rated properly

You can find all the connectors and pins and colours of wires and their locations in the car if you have the patience to translate some of the pages. From the diagrams, it looks like there is a rear fog indicator on the dash clocks (check to see if you can see it by shining a torch on the clockface)

rear fog wiring for 10 series can be found here: http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339i0307000383_frame.html

typical, lol, its definitely stamped on the engine block somewhere, its a common engine type, so a search for the engine itself will probably throw up the location.

yes, I agree, I had already disconnected all the plugs before realising I had not disconnected battery - oops.

For the 10 series, chassis number is behind plastic cover on bulkhead and engine number on side of engine:

on the 20 series, chassis and engine number (2.4l shown here)

Difference between the cheaper (less than £20) led "Reflectors" and a proper Retroreflector with LEDs is shown in 2 clips below. VID_20220318_194750.mp4 VID_20220402_193556.mp4

i didn't disconnect the battery when i fitted an upgraded stalk, that involved complete removal of steering wheel, oops, probably should have though. When I reconnected everything, i had to reset the 'spring' that the wiring loom for the switches is attached to, that involved full lock from left to right and back, that was it. and clearing the error in the DTC, which would not have happened had i disconnected battery.

I think they mean the actual stamped number of the engine block itself?

no, i think its true of the 10 and 20 series, that the 'sidelights' or running lights illuminate in both the door panel lens and the chassis mounted lens, the brake only illuminates in the chassis mounted lens. So what can be done, is to convert the door mounted lens to a dual filament, so it acts like a normal running light, and uses both filaments for the fog function. (usually the dual filaments are something like 5w for running lights and 21w when you hit the brakes or use as fog) So in this case, you'd need to run an extension wire through the rubber boot to the door, and you can wire a relay in there too, so you only get a live feed to the 'fog' when the sidelight is illuminated

goto about 1.30 in that video - its for 3L MZ, the whole vid is useful

YEah, I think that code is right, its what is used in CutToTheChase youtube vid, and he has a MZ.

Devon, but lived in everywhere between SE5 to SE18 in the decades I was in SE London!