threepot

I have a 3.5 4x4, and I get on average about 18 miles per gallon during normal local use 😂 But if I go on a long drive down the motorway, dual carrageways etc I get 26-29mpg, If fuel consumption is a big factor in car choice, these v6 jap buses are not the car for everyone. If the speedo has a bit of black tape over the "K" in Km/h, then its got a pulse converter on it (it reduces 4 pulses from the speed signal to 3), thus all the values in the cluster will be Miles.... Miles per Litre, the speedo reads mph, the odometer clocks miles. If the cluster has this type of face, with mph in the middle, then all of the values read KM's... odometer, litres/km etc etc I imported my own and did all my own conversion and registration paperwork etc - and I'm in the autoelectronics industry so know exactly how the cluster works etc.

The immobiliser transponder is part of the remote. It is "impossible" to start the vehicle without the remote part. The key only operates the mechanical door lock encase of flat battery etc. The steering lock mechanism is entirely electronic, there is no mechanical key override functionality.

In my copy of the English manual for the 2008 onwards it says this?

Those who have hunted will know, finding a towbar for a the 2008 onwards Vellfire / Alphard isn't easy. You can order a "Suntrex Tugmaster" towbar from Japan, but they are best part of £600, plus shipping (£200), plus duty and VAT.... its over £1000 to your door Or you could fabricate something from scratch if you are that way inclined. But what I found was the Lexus RX300-400h tow bar from Witter is nearly a direct fit, but some modification are required. Part number TY135BU First the main beam across the back is 1090mm long, and it needs to be reduced to 990mm end to end. Simply measure 50mm from each end, mark it very accurately, then slice it with a slitting disc. Clean up the end plates and re-weld them back on. Then I made up two flat plates to sit on the inside of the boot floor to act as a load spreader. And 6 spacer collars I made from some 20mm steel bar, that I drilled out with a 12mm bore for the M12x125mm bolts. These need to be exactly 81mm long. I made them on a lathe. If you do nice job of it, you end up with a towbar that looks straight out of the factory, with a branded e11 type aproval sticker on it 😂 Strangely, one of the bolt holes lines up perfectly with one of the factory holes and floor indentations. You only need to drill a couple of holes for the bolts. Spare wheel still fits perfectly. All looks like a proper one, whatever that might be. Keep in mind the photos are mostly during the mock up fitting so the bolts haven't been tightened up.