JAD

Firstly Thanks to Lee who advised on scanner & part this has now been sorted, could not have done it without his support! To change the sensor i needed the following tools screwdrivewr, 12mm & 14mm sockets and spanner and a E7 spline socket. Had to take off the heat shield to get the sensor out unfoutunately one fixings of the shield has a stud and nut and I needed to get the stud out with the spline socket. Luckily came out ok. I undid the sensor with 22mm spanner the new one was a bit of a pain to screw in but eventually managed it. Put heat shield back on and started the engine and engine warning light is off 🙂 Great Result Would have prefered to have done in the summer though. Kind Regards John IMG_3614.HEIC IMG_3615.HEIC IMG_3616.HEIC IMG_3617.HEIC IMG_3618.HEIC IMG_3619.HEIC

Will do - And very grateful for Lee's recomendation of scanner which worked a treat. I did email the supplyer regarding the streetwize spanner looks like if anyone wants to try it you can take it back. Cheers John Good day to you. We have learned that Japanese cars began introducing the OBD II protocol in 2000, and it wasn't until around 2006 that the OBD II protocol became popular. Currently, we can't find this car from 2004 in China, so we can't test whether this car has the OBD II protocol. So the consumers may need to test it themselves to see if it can be used SWOBD4. If it can't be used, the car not the OBDII protocol I apologise that this doesn’t give you enough information for you to go on but if you were to purchase the unit and it doesn’t work you could always take it back as all our products come with a 12 month warranty and it would obviously not be fit for purpose

Well reader came to day and this is what it found. Connected and ran the engine then selected rerad fault codes. P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank1 Sensor1) So the next question is what do I do now is this easy to replace? Cheers John IMG_3601.HEIC

Thanks for the replies I think I'll go for the Ancel - I take it this is the connection above the pedals - Once I get it I'll let you know how I get on

Has anyone tried one of these to check engine codes? There are in toolstation and I have the dreaded yellow/orange engine warning light up. https://www.toolstation.com/streetwize-car-diagnostic/p12772

Hi Phillip there is a stop in the runner a square nut. If you turn the seats so they face backwards you should get them to fold down. cheers john

Decided to keep it - so no longer for sale

Alphard (2004) – Rear Conversion Camper with Pop Up Roof £18,000 O.N.O Located just outside Ipswich Great to drive but we have decided camper van is not for us and it needs to go to someone who will make use of it. 2.4 Petrol Auto White 5 seats – 4 berth Manufacted August 2004 Converted by Andy Autos March 2022 2 gas Burners & Gas Bottle, electric hook up, sink, coolbox remote locking & 2 keys Milage 47,183 Km = x 0.621371 = 29,318n Miles Since converted to Miles 48,508 – 47,183 = 1325 miles Total Miles = 30,643 miles MOT 24/01/2024 CAR VX Vehicle History Report

Thanks Picasso Yes you are right if I turn the seats I can get them both down. Still not sure what the point of the stop is as I think they would both fold down without the need for turning them. Has anyone taken the stop nut out? Thanks for the welcome Roger Cheers John

On my Alphard rear conversion the double seat behind the driver is stops by a square nut in the rails see picture. This means it doesn't come fully forward and you cant lay the seat flat. I'm sure when we brought it we were shown the seats down OK could they have been turned round which I think they do but its a bit of a pain. What do the screws that hold the rails down go into, a nut or can I get it undone from the top? Thanks for any assistance 😉