Wai Ho

Resolved the problem after fast charging for 3hrs.. So issue no longer exist with regular top up charging.

Thank you for your advice. ...noted... My Vellfire even though it has one of the lowest spec seem to draw current with proximity sensors curtesy led lights on all the time. Now I check the battery voltage between terminals to monitor the drop.

Thank you Roger, I am in no hurry at present.. I will try Tanya prices. My local car parts motor factors occassionally do good bargains and they are just a mile away. Last Granvia, I got a similar CCA battery at discounted price of £75. Appreciate your recommendation.

Just experienced starting this morning after 4 days rain and not using Vellfire. Made worse by my testing appliances without starting engine. Found the battery that came with the seller an Exide EB602 which gives 60AH /540CCA. Looking up overseas Vellfire batteries - they seem to be recommending Varta S95/130D26L - 75AH/720A CCA. Now I am keen on lookout for a 75AH/720CCA. meanwhile frequent battery top up charging as I do short journeys.

HI Alan, I just noticed your post on tyres... Just got my 2008 Vellfire 2.4l 4 weeks ago. All my 4 tyres are 235/50 R18 97 V. Not experienced enough to comment on comfort and suitability of tyre. regards

Yes Roger is right, my 2008 Vellfire shows ANH20 -8033602 on Export certificate.

Update on this topic.... Yes I eventually used the spare fuse socket(engine compartment driver side) above the deicer socket as the piggy back was stopping the fuse assembly cover from closing. Put in a 20A fuse. I ran the new circuit wire from the assembly through to wheel arch area and came up underneath the driver floor through a grommet below the thick padding on floor. From there, I split the wire into 3 separate wires with 10A,5A,5A fused lines to allow for 24hr surv dashcam , sat nav , and spare for lighter socket for future separate parking camera/monitor. Tested all working for a few days already. No deteriment to engine starting even with 24 hr surv camera working.. Thanks everyone for your advice and contribution. At a later stage I will source suitable toggle switches for neater installation. ps. I did not involve the glove compartment or the central console panel. ..Overall, I am grateful for all the encouragement and help to pick up a completely new skill from learning how to use a test meter,identifying fuses, understanding their limititations, testing for soundness in installation, routing circuit from engine area to driver footwell, correcting a badly wired addon from seller and to cap it all , I saved over £300 by not asking the local car security specialist. Well done and thanks to this community. Keep your ideas coming..Thanks again

Thanks Craig (Voodo101)...I found the two internal fuse clusters D7(pass side) and F1 Driver side. You are right , I just remove the 2 kick panel to take pictures of the actual fuses (see below).. You are also correct that once I use the piggy back taps , the shallow covers wont go back in. Now I will have to figure out which fuse slot to choose and what they refer to. Any idea what Seat Htr RH refers to? I have not located any heater switches on dahboard. Regards to all for the encouragement. I started driving in '76. Today is first time I am looking at fuse cluster.. Never too late.

My penny's worth of contribution. I had problems with my previous 3L Granvia until I changed the battery to one with higher CCA (Cold Cranking Amp)..Did not even need to top up charge for 3 months of cold weather. Just a thought.

I have also thought about that for a future task. Thanks.

Hi Chris, I value your kind suggestion of lights above rear view mirror. My original Japanese monitor have been replaced and am left with just radio and cd player etc. Seeing all the goodies in the other members Alphards and Vellfire, I have in mind to add some accessories on independent wire taps and fuses instead of using up the only lighter socket. Hence the thought of using the 2 slots above the 20A label Fog, de icer fuse is missing and so is the marked X slot. Both are unswitched. not sure what the 2 30A AMP no1 No2 are. My current thought is to tap on the 20A sockets , thread wire to under driver side footwell to provide lower amp fused supply to dashcam, separate reversing camera and future simple appliance like USB sockets for rear seats as there are none there. Hope that make sense. Once wire gets inside car, the potential is much better. I also found (after removing the trims nect to seat) that Vellfire has very thick sound proofing polysterence below the carpets. Can possibly cut a slot to insert /hide the new appliances connection points away from other original . wiring. Any comments welcome if I am doing anything unsuitable. I am all ears as I am still learning car electrics. Thanks in anticipation.

Thanks Chris for the links.. Have to to learn the language first. somewhere in group I think, mentioned about possibiliity of getting a repair or owners manual. I am all for learning though not everything I learn will be applicable. Thanks again. Back from visit to grandchildren and have to sort out an domestic electrical short before carrying on with car electrics.

Thank you Bob for the pictures, It will come in useful.

Any wiring diagram will be greatly appreciated.. I got a 2.5K mirror ront rear camera with lighter plug. This limits other future devices plus the rear camera does not provide suitable reversing camera pictures when reverse gear engagedpreferred. and drains battery hence an separate wire tap . Have got a separate cheap reverse camera to mount lower and linked to reverse positive.

Thank you for your update, I am happy with what I have but keen to discover what my Vellfire provides. Not intending to splash out much on it as I intend to have this Vellfire for 5 years. Its in good condition. Doing basics to cut out costs going to a car security guy who wants to charge £500. Hence all the learning to minimise cost.