
Wai Ho
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Posts posted by Wai Ho
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18 hours ago, Rojie said:
Ideally, you want lead calcium type, high CCA, but correct size and terminal configuration.
Thank you for your advice. ...noted... My Vellfire even though it has one of the lowest spec seem to draw current with proximity sensors curtesy led lights on all the time. Now I check the battery voltage between terminals to monitor the drop.
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Thank you Roger, I am in no hurry at present.. I will try Tanya prices. My local car parts motor factors occassionally do good bargains and they are just a mile away. Last Granvia, I got a similar CCA battery at discounted price of £75. Appreciate your recommendation.
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Just experienced starting this morning after 4 days rain and not using Vellfire. Made worse by my testing appliances without starting engine. Found the battery that came with the seller an Exide EB602 which gives 60AH /540CCA. Looking up overseas Vellfire batteries - they seem to be recommending Varta S95/130D26L - 75AH/720A CCA. Now I am keen on lookout for a 75AH/720CCA. meanwhile frequent battery top up charging as I do short journeys.
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HI Alan, I just noticed your post on tyres... Just got my 2008 Vellfire 2.4l 4 weeks ago. All my 4 tyres are 235/50 R18 97 V. Not experienced enough to comment on comfort and suitability of tyre. regards
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Yes Roger is right, my 2008 Vellfire shows ANH20 -8033602 on Export certificate.
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Update on this topic....Yes I eventually used the spare fuse socket(engine compartment driver side) above the deicer socket as the piggy back was stopping the fuse assembly cover from closing. Put in a 20A fuse. I ran the new circuit wire from the assembly through to wheel arch area and came up underneath the driver floor through a grommet below the thick padding on floor. From there, I split the wire into 3 separate wires with 10A,5A,5A fused lines to allow for 24hr surv dashcam , sat nav , and spare for lighter socket for future separate parking camera/monitor. Tested all working for a few days already. No deteriment to engine starting even with 24 hr surv camera working.. Thanks everyone for your advice and contribution. At a later stage I will source suitable toggle switches for neater installation. ps. I did not involve the glove compartment or the central console panel. ..Overall, I am grateful for all the encouragement and help to pick up a completely new skill from learning how to use a test meter,identifying fuses, understanding their limititations, testing for soundness in installation, routing circuit from engine area to driver footwell, correcting a badly wired addon from seller and to cap it all , I saved over £300 by not asking the local car security specialist. Well done and thanks to this community. Keep your ideas coming..Thanks again
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On 10/6/2022 at 4:57 PM, Voodoo101 said:
The fuse box is accessable without removing the glove box, infact the glove box will not make any difference unless you need access to thread cables from the door. To remove it, open it up, on the left side you will see a plastic rod from the dash to the glove box, just pull it free as it comes off easy, then squeeze the sides of the glove box as you pull it open (make sure it is empty as it will just hinge on the bottom) then pop it off the hinges. Be careful when you put it back to make sure the hinges are correctly lined up when you put it back, otherwise it gets jammed and is a pain to get back out to align. Then push it back in place, hooking up the pole.
The easy way to wire up a dashcam is to use a piggy back fuse. Saves any major wiring, the only problem is the fuse box lid does not fit after. If you remove the kick panel on the left of the footwell (there is a little plastic nut at the back and it just pops off), there is a bolt that is a good earth.
Thanks Craig (Voodo101)...I found the two internal fuse clusters D7(pass side) and F1 Driver side. You are right , I just remove the 2 kick panel to take pictures of the actual fuses (see below).. You are also correct that once I use the piggy back taps , the shallow covers wont go back in. Now I will have to figure out which fuse slot to choose and what they refer to. Any idea what Seat Htr RH refers to? I have not located any heater switches on dahboard. Regards to all for the encouragement. I started driving in '76. Today is first time I am looking at fuse cluster.. Never too late.
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On 10/9/2022 at 8:56 AM, Rojie said:
Hello Robert
Welcome to the Forum.
Probably your battery needs a really good charge
Winter is coming and we all need to ensure our batteries are fully charged.
My penny's worth of contribution. I had problems with my previous 3L Granvia until I changed the battery to one with higher CCA (Cold Cranking Amp)..Did not even need to top up charge for 3 months of cold weather. Just a thought.
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I have also thought about that for a future task. Thanks.
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19 hours ago, Chris.ac said:
wouldn't it be easier to wire into the lights above rear view mirror?
You have access to permanent and switched acc there.
If you want I can forward wiring diagrams
Hi Chris, I value your kind suggestion of lights above rear view mirror. My original Japanese monitor have been replaced and am left with just radio and cd player etc. Seeing all the goodies in the other members Alphards and Vellfire, I have in mind to add some accessories on independent wire taps and fuses instead of using up the only lighter socket. Hence the thought of using the 2 slots above the 20A label Fog, de icer fuse is missing and so is the marked X slot. Both are unswitched. not sure what the 2 30A AMP no1 No2 are. My current thought is to tap on the 20A sockets , thread wire to under driver side footwell to provide lower amp fused supply to dashcam, separate reversing camera and future simple appliance like USB sockets for rear seats as there are none there. Hope that make sense. Once wire gets inside car, the potential is much better. I also found (after removing the trims nect to seat) that Vellfire has very thick sound proofing polysterence below the carpets. Can possibly cut a slot to insert /hide the new appliances connection points away from other original . wiring. Any comments welcome if I am doing anything unsuitable. I am all ears as I am still learning car electrics. Thanks in anticipation.
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Thanks Chris for the links.. Have to to learn the language first. somewhere in group I think, mentioned about possibiliity of getting a repair or owners manual. I am all for learning though not everything I learn will be applicable. Thanks again. Back from visit to grandchildren and have to sort out an domestic electrical short before carrying on with car electrics.
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56 minutes ago, Chris.ac said:
wouldn't it be easier to wire into the lights above rear view mirror?
You have access to permanent and switched acc there.
If you want I can forward wiring diagrams
Any wiring diagram will be greatly appreciated.. I got a 2.5K mirror ront rear camera with lighter plug. This limits other future devices plus the rear camera does not provide suitable reversing camera pictures when reverse gear engagedpreferred. and drains battery hence an separate wire tap . Have got a separate cheap reverse camera to mount lower and linked to reverse positive.
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1 hour ago, dezufo said:
Not all models have a powered door on the drivers side, my 2003 MS has no power doors
Thank you for your update, I am happy with what I have but keen to discover what my Vellfire provides. Not intending to splash out much on it as I intend to have this Vellfire for 5 years. Its in good condition. Doing basics to cut out costs going to a car security guy who wants to charge £500. Hence all the learning to minimise cost.
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Still discovering what my 2008 Vellfire 2.4l surprises are.. Cant say my sliding door does not fully open. A feature I discovered about the two middle row seats. There is a lever below each seat that can tilt the seat upwards so that the whole chair can move forward a few inches towards the front. This actually allows for wider access to back seats. Very convenient for rear row passengers.
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On 10/4/2022 at 7:40 PM, John Hollis said:
While we are on the subject of side doors, does anyone know how to solve a powered nearside sliding door that will not open with the remote?
The offside door works perfectly, but of course the fridge blocks its use. It took several days including a trip to the fishing tackle shop to buy a giant forceps for taking the hook out of monster fish to take out and put back the fuse and find it was OK. These forceps are abut 9 inches long and very thin. They have a little lock device so you can grasp the fuse with them and using a keyhole camera in my laptop, it only took 2 hours to replace the fuse. I have tried a new motor (about £2.50 from Japan + postage and reversed the polarity as suggested from somewhere I have forgotten), I have replaced the door control box - once with a part number said to be equivalent and once with a newer version of the same part number. With the original door control box, although it wouldn't power open, after manual opening, during the manual closing , a motor made the final pull into the side of the car. With the latest door control box, I have lost this and now need to give the door an extra shove to close it. Although this isn't in itself a serious issue, I park the car on a slope and the door is quite heavy and very difficult for my wife to open and shut. Add to this the fact that this door has to have the engine switched off, no key in the ignition and a press on the unlock fob to open in the first place. By the time she gets to the side door, she is already frustrated by the palaver of getting out of the front passenger door. Usually it takes three pulls of the door opening lever before she realises/remembers that there is a red safety catch to move first. Not like on her Honda. Well, anyone any ideas on re-powering the door? I should perhaps mention that working offside door has a different part number.
Fascinating information John. I just got my 2008 Vellfire with only remote control opening of kerb side sliding door . control on fob and switch on driver side knee level. No control for sliding door behind driver. Wonder if TOyota makes so many variations.
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1 hour ago, Voodoo101 said:
The fuse box is accessable without removing the glove box, infact the glove box will not make any difference unless you need access to thread cables from the door. To remove it, open it up, on the left side you will see a plastic rod from the dash to the glove box, just pull it free as it comes off easy, then squeeze the sides of the glove box as you pull it open (make sure it is empty as it will just hinge on the bottom) then pop it off the hinges. Be careful when you put it back to make sure the hinges are correctly lined up when you put it back, otherwise it gets jammed and is a pain to get back out to align. Then push it back in place, hooking up the pole.
The easy way to wire up a dashcam is to use a piggy back fuse. Saves any major wiring, the only problem is the fuse box lid does not fit after. If you remove the kick panel on the left of the footwell (there is a little plastic nut at the back and it just pops off), there is a bolt that is a good earth.
Am parked on a London Streatham street and so cannot work on tap easily.. cant locate plastic rod...will try again later. yes I will be using a piggy back fuse. have figured out the top is fuse to new appliance and fuse should be less than bottom host fuse. Also figured out the which way piggy back fuse should be plug in to draw 12V bypassing host fuse. Am visiting my grandchildren and dont want to take away quality time with them. Am confident I will get this done properly.
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Thanks arthurj, when I get back to base, I will look at how to remove the glove box. Havent done this before. the 2 30A fuse holders in the engine compartment(driver side) is tempting as I can get to easily. Was wondering if there is a direct access grommet on the friver footwell. I will update when I find one but meanwhile exploring. Found the seller did a novice splicing of the positive cable to the side door mirrors to service the digital speedometer. Will have to tidy that up wit h a two way and a 3amp fuse to digital speedoormeter. Please excuse if I am going the wrong way...Still learning basic car electrics.
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Hi Roger, Thanks for your input. My next MOT due July 2023. I quite like the display .. Speed display is not annoying as I have 3 other appliances showing mph.. MY dashcam on interior rear view mirror, my old Garmin Sat Nav and the digital mph speedometer supplied by the seller.. I suppose I have to make sure every service shop records my reading in Km.
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Hello new here.. just got imported 2008 Vellfire in Sept 2022
I have located 2 suitable fuses in Engine area fuse cluster box to act as tap host for permanent 12V for dashcam. Can anypne suggest a route for wire to thread through to driver/passenger area to supply 12V to dashcam please. Am trying to avoid using lighter socket(non permanent supply) . First timer at installing wire taps and confident enough using multimeter. Have not found fuse box inside Vellfire yet. Any suggestion where it is would be welcome. I intend to introduced 2x 3Afused line to supply dashcam and reversing camera on Vellfire
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Hello, I am new here .Have just got an imported 2008 Vellfire last week.
Can someone please confirm that it is legal to have a the original speedometer/odometer in kph and kms with a separate digital speedometer on dash? my Vellfire has beautiful km display panel unconverted.I read that MOT is not bothered with Odometer in kms... I already have Sat Nav , dashcam and the separate didital speedmoter all in miles per hour.
starting
in Toyota Alphard Club Forum (2002 - 2008)
Posted
Resolved the problem after fast charging for 3hrs.. So issue no longer exist with regular top up charging.