
StuVelly
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Posts posted by StuVelly
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3 hours ago, Quimbasher said:
If it was mine, it would depend on how big the metal fragments were that came out. If you think the internals are still in good shape id go down the route of a flush and new bearing. Are there any indications as to why it failed? Is is a common problem on the 4wd models?
Thanks Harry. I’ve come to that Sam conclusion. I have managed to buy a repair kit from a guy in Canada using Toyota parts for £165. It is more common than I expected surprisingly. This is purely by chance that I opened the coupling up due to a tiny oil weep on the bottom of the coupler. There’s was no noise. As a gearbox specialist said to me, diffs will always have the grey gritted oil even mega low mileage ones as it metal onto metal. Flush it and fit new bearings. Then flush again in 500 miles. Definitely something I’d look out for on them.
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Hi all,
Well, after a little wet patch under the rear 4wd diff coupler on my 2011 vellfire, I had it in yesterday to have the suspected inner seal done. When the coupler was removed, there was no seal left only the metal ring from it. The coupler inner bearing has about 10 balls missing and a pile of metal fell out of the oil between the coupler and the diff itself. Worst time for a big bill :(. My options are: -
- Get a bearing and seal kit and have a new bearing put in the coupler and flush the diff out as much as possible and then refill with oil.
- get a second hand diff and coupler so there is no metal fragments in the diff. Or am I being too ridiculous there?
What would you people do? I rarely use 4wd only when towing and bad weather but the rear diff is always free moving anyway isnt it?
FYI there was/is zero noise from the unit even now with all the balls missing and no noise. I crawled home 4 miles onto the drive until I work out what the hell im gonna do! Pretty gutted on such a young machine at 63,000 miles
Thanks for reading.
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On 12/7/2023 at 12:51 PM, threepot said:
I really have no fuel economy calcs done, but I can tell you I got from my house to Trac Mon in anglesey and back, on exactly one tank of fuel.... it was touch and go if I'd make it all the way home but I was deep into the fuel light and made it..... so that is 240 miles on 1 tank which took 55 litres to fill.... with a 1.4 tonne trailer, and the back of the van full of 2 sets of wheels+tyres, jerry cans of fuel, tools spares etc. Fully loaded! So doing the maths. 240 litres = 120.1 UK Gallons, so 20mpg! Which really aint bad, but it was clear all the way and an easy flat cruise.
Not sure on the RPMs while cruising, its low, lazy low. These have a 6 speed box that make them cruise better.
From memory the cage holds a space saver, its a pretty good one though. If you got the welder out you could make a deeper cage for a proper tyre. But my van is running 20" wheels from Lexus RX450h with 235/50R20 tyres, so it would have to be a massive cage 🤣
Thanks for the info. So sorry I missed the reply!!! That is class MPG! all that weight and bulk. You cant ask for more than that. 20.s on it too. I love these machines. Im trying to find the part number and best place for the airlift1000 bags for the rear at present before we tow the caravan :).
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On 11/16/2022 at 11:26 AM, arthurj said:
The biggest thing that is stopping me from getting a replacement radio is that I have a roof monitor, and I haven't found a replacement that allows me to show GPS navigation in the front and play a movie in the back at the same time while driving. It's always mirroring exactly what's on the screen in front. The "Ben Hau" carplay retrofit doesn't allow that either, as far as I can tell.
The OEM unit does do that. Although the inbuilt navgation doesn't work, I do have a different display on in the front and can also control volume and stop the movie if I need to. The kids love having a cinema in the back on a long trip.
Hi. I’m in exactly the same position I love the split rear entertainment and us have the phone sat nav on in the front. I just need to work out the best way to get an apple car play on front screen without losing the split audio really. Vtr won’t use the touch screen that’s the only thing Will it.
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On 8/22/2022 at 3:17 PM, threepot said:
No pictures, but just pulled spurs off the rear left cluster for brakes, side light, indicator........ and pulled 2 spurs off the right cluster for indicator and fog light.
I found it easiest to pop both rear light clusters out, then I could fish some wires about without removing any plastics.
There is rubber bung in the floor under the carpet on the left of the boot which I drilled a hole in to pull the cable from the tow bar into the cabin.
And I used one of these bypass relay with built in beeper:-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MFDM9SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1For the permanent live I took a feed from the control box for the power tail gate, again you can see it if you pop the access panel off the left hand side of the boot load space plastics. There was a 10mm bolt into the body work in there too for the ground.
Towing on the Vellfire is fantastic! Much better than using my RAV4. The Vellfire is nice and heavy so the trailer doesn't push the van around. I've been towing my car transporter trailer with my MR2 track car on the back. It's luxury going in the Vellfire with cruise control and automatic gearbox. Visibility is really good too, because if I need to do any tight reversing, I can press the buttons to open the electric sliding doors and tail gate so I can see really well. The only down side is the 3.5 Vellfire is quite heavy on petrol towing compared to the Rav4, but at the same time it has bags of power so you don't really work it hard.
Hi Mate,
Great to hear someone with a similar van to me who is happy towing. Ive just taken delivery of the 2011 3.5v6 4x4 vellfire and I was a bit concerned when towing our 1.3t caravan up a small incline on the motorway that the auto box on cruise was changing up then maybe 15 seconds later change down then up etc and not keeping a set speed. More like dropping a couple of mph then picking up again. this was at 60mph on my converted speedo. Maybe if I tried nudging a bit faster Id get over the threshold of the gearbox thinking it should change down? Ive come from a 4x4 3.5 elgrand which did scream its head off on inclines so dropped the cruise off on that while we levelled back off so worst case is I do that.
Can you get a full size spare under in the spare wheel carrier do you know please?
Also, what roughly are you sitting at rpm round 60 on a flat please?
Im hoping for 15mpg similar to the elgrand but wondered what you are managing towing the car transporter please?
Ive just takent he plunge and spent quite a lot on this motor and having a few nervous thoughts i just want it to be right before moving the elgrand on. Ive a potential heavy steering issue when crawling speeds at the minute
but we'll get there.
SOOO many question Im sorry
Thanks again
Stuart
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1 minute ago, Rojie said:
This rnovie does not run on my PC.
I can only agree that bonding brakes cannot help your situation.
Oh sorry roger. Silly iPhone movie format then but it’s a poor video of me turning back and forth and some clonking noises. They don’t sound like bearings and feel anything either through the wheel.
I’ll get the tech stream and sort brakes and go from there. I Appreciate everyone’s support on here!! -
I’ve noticed I’ve developed some plastic sounding clonks which are high up near the steering wheel like casings are getting caught. Sorry I wore a stupid loud coat for this video! But I am just managing to turn the wheel at crawling speed.
ps it’s going through me a bit almost dry steering. If I completely dry steer no movement it is lighter. When slightly crawling it’s heavier. I turned anti slid off and it’s the same unfortunately.
I’m going to invest in the diagnostics and see if I’ve any faults. This isn’t right I’m sure. -
10 minutes ago, Picasso said:
Do you know what chip has been fitted because early alphard supposed to be a ckun09 chip alphard 2008 onwards is a canbus chip
I’m pretty sure it’s the canbus chip but will get confirmation. Thanks for responding. Bit deflated after waiting so long and I’ve got these problems but I know they’re not serious.
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16 minutes ago, Chris.ac said:
all 4 wheel speed sensors are fed in, it may be thinking you are in a skid condition.
You really need to connect up diagnostics, techstream preferably, you can then monitor all 4 wheels and the steering angles.
Try turning off the VSC (long hold the 'skid' button to the right of steering wheel, whilst parking brake is on with engine running, see if this makes a difference.
Brilliant. Thanks for more ideas. I’ve had the battery tested and it’s in good shape so it’s not that.
FYI the brakes are binding. Baking hot on the front after small run on motorway so I’ll be sorting them asap not sure if that’s contributing.
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On 10/9/2023 at 1:25 PM, Rojie said:
I read every thread, and do not recall ever having read one about heavy steering.
I have read about worn rack bushes though.
If a new battery does not solve the issue, send picasso a PM
Hi Roger. Ive not managed a new battery yet but I have discovered that upon doing a full lock using poor driving skills of turning wheel on full lock that the steering is in fact lighter by a decent margain. BUT once you creep forward and turning the wheel like you should when parking etc, its goes stiff and even tight and loose tight loose etc.
That to me sounds like a possible speed sensor maybe? Thinking im going faster then I am? Its been chipped to be mph by a reputable guy who does tons of them so my question is, is there a speed sensor somewhere for the steering motor please anyone?
Its quite difficult and putting me off the car a bit
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15 hours ago, Chris.ac said:
20 series is electric power steering - no power steering fluid.
has your vehicle had the speedo 'chipped' to convert to miles?, im just trying to think, but if some signal is not correct, and the EPS thinks you are moving, it may be making the steering heavier as intended.
It should be really light when parking/stationary, like 1 finger light.
Hi Chris.
it has had the speedo converted yes by a guy who does it day in day out so confident that has been done properly. I’m gonna to Chuck a new battery on. That’s very reassuring then the steering wheel should be that light when working correctly. The tyres had 31 in and putting 40 has made a good difference. It’s certainly not 1 finger light. The Ellie is like that and you can tell a big difference. Worst case I know the cost of motor but it’s so squeaky clean in and out and 60k miles I can’t see it needing that. 👍🏼.
flipping epic motor though. Japans rolls Royce for sure. Everyone ogles it 😎 -
Hi,
Did you get any further with this project? Ive the 2011 with theatre and love the features on my original head unit and system but want a video input to the front screen but allowing rear etnertainment to still be split off if possible. They dont half make things hard work on the sound systems
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On 4/17/2022 at 1:28 PM, Chris.ac said:
looks nice, but i really like the functionality of the original cameras, they are perfectly calibrated for reversing into spaces and kerbside parking, and the guidelines work flawlessly..
SO we need a modern HD screen like this, but with the inputs for the OEM parking assist ecu.
Hi Chris. Ive just picked up my 2011 vellfire with 18 speakers and 3 cameras/park assist and want to keep the lot aswel as hopefully having a touch screen to control a new interface say carplay. I just wondered how you have got on? did you get anywhere with your research?
Cheers
Stu
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On 8/2/2023 at 3:23 PM, Jill Alder said:
It was really impossible to access seat belt slot when rock and roll bed in seat mode. I couldn’t find any uk made belts on Amazon, or any with European safety marks.
I found Orion safety belts Ltd online, based in Hertfordshire. A Uk manufacturer- for only £16.78 I bought an adjustable seat belt extension- including postage!fast delivery - I can’t fault this company.
Hello jill.
I an after some extenders for my middle row captains seats and wondered whether your rock and roll is the same click style as your front seats by any chance please? I and getting sore knuckles when trying to click the belts in around child’s seats and the plastic side arms 😂 -
4 minutes ago, Rojie said:
Hello Stuart,
Welcome to the Forum.
I wish I had a pound for every time I have advised members to ensure their 12v starter battery remains fully charged at all times.
Keep your 'old battery' as a spare and keep in under trickle charge
Hi. Thanks a lot.
haha I tried too. I really tried to find a thread on hear about heavy steering and went out to the van only to find no fluid pot. So my brain switched 😂.
thanks again and I’ll report back but I’m confident it’ll make a difference.
stu. -
Morning All.
So, Ive finally got her!! 6.5 months from sayin 'I will'
. It was worth the weight. I now have a 3.5v6 2011 modelista in White. VL 4x4.
Ive just one issue and that is the steering is HEAVY!. Even going round small islands it feels like you are having to really hold it in the bend. Then, I have just parked it at work and gone from full lock left to full lock right and it felt heavy, then bursts of very heavy pressure if that makes sense?
I have a 2007 elgrand (excuse my language) which has feather light steering. I cant see that this is how the Vellfire is suppose to be. Im no weed and yet Im shocked at the weight of it.
Other than checking PS Fluid, tyre pressures, what else could you suggest I have a look/looked at please? I cannot hear any noises and the car drives dead plumb with no pulling left or right.
Many thanks for any advice.
UPDATE, After watching a 2018 with steering manlfunction due to poor battery, Im going to change the battery out first as it has been sat for 6.5 months! Chances are this might be the issue. Fingers crossed and will update ASAP!!
Cheers
Stu
Rear Diff coupler bearing disintegrating. ADVICE APPRECIATED
in Toyota Alphard & Vellfire Club Forum (2008 - 2015)
Posted
Yes thank you. It took 8 weeks being off road but £160 for parts and £220 to for including new diff oil. Can’t grumble at that. Thanks though.