Shorty0123

How interesting... I'll investigate further, thanks Chris!

Well thats what i would assume also... If theres an adapter that encodes, there must be a decoder. Just feels like high/low level adapters are not a very elegant solution. What i want to achieve is to get a driver focused, banging system that suits my 53 yo compromised ears that also employs a clever loudness setting for lower volumes. Ive replaced the front door speakers and dynamatted the panels, and the dashboard speakers. Ive built a separate compact sealed 10inch sub and amp and it's starting to sound a lot better... Just wanna improve further. I dont want to change the headunit as i feel all original is best, bluetooth works well and ive digitised loads of CDs onto the HDD, i ise a small add on android auto screen and its fine. Just wanna get that sound spot on. The factory 18 speaker system is good, but not good enough for my tastes. I'll keep looking...

Thanks, i see. But I'm not removing the headunit. I'm keeping the toyota one. I'll just carry on with the high level converter then if there's no other option. Thanks again

Hey Chris, yeah i know how to get a high level signal from the amp, ive designed a car amplifier which ive built with DSP enabled circuits (i design and build speakers and amps in my spare time) and i do indeed want to use all of the existing speaker connections and will be hijacking those from the oem amp plugs. Id rather not keep the amplifier 'live' just so i can get a line level signal. And instead remove it so i can place my new amp gear. I was rather hoping i could just insert a box that extracts the signal from the canbus out to a couple of RCAs, i didnt include a pic of the device in question as id found it on AExpress the previous day but couldn't find it for the life of me later when i penned this post (defo exists tho) it essentially takes a fiber connection and outputs just two RCAs, they are plenty on AExpress that do Mercs/Audi etc, this specific one was for Toyota however... I'll have another search... But in the meantime I'll include an image of the merc one. What i was concerned about was if i used such a device and being that it only has a single fiber input, I'll be breaking the canbus loop and may be stopping other elements working in the chain from the oem infotainment. I want to keep all of this working as i like the original equipment. Why am i bothering to do all of this? Because i want to tailor a dsp enabled listening experience in the car.

Hi all, I want to bypass the toyota amplifier completely and i want to hijack the MOST signal to obtain the line level audio, hence lookint at the aftermarket decoders... however i want to do this without affecting the integrity of the other MOST bus systems... Is there a sensible place to insert the decoder in the loop and does this break the MOST loop, i.e anything upstream of the thrid party adapter wont work? If this is the case is it possible to split the most signal? im assuming this is a fiber optic connection? Thanks in advance, im betting @chris.ac knows the answer Ive attached a screenshot of a device that can be used to convert to non OEM headunits, but there are devices that hijack the MOST fiberoptics and output just the analog audio signal

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008351157927.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.16.49a9OMD0OMD0jm&algo_pvid=ca6a0365-a9ba-41e9-83e8-66921ae27ea2&algo_exp_id=ca6a0365-a9ba-41e9-83e8-66921ae27ea2-15&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"-1"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!GBP!136.19!136.19!!!178.84!178.84!%40211b807017575124749722942e4d41!12000044694028063!sea!UK!0!ABX!1!0!n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A7ef68ca1%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=mNvdsFsVcYFL&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005008351157927|_p_origin_prod%3A Costly but plugs into original wiring.

Hi again Chris! Yes as you've gathered in trying to get to the bottom of this one still. I'll go on a search for a bypass cable but id also thought about switching the channels around on the amp the rear most speaker set could be diverted to the front speakers and vice versa, obvioulsy this would mess with the fader but id aim to get a decent sound with the fader set to the zero or middle position. Ive had so many vehicles with full range speakers in the front doors that it makes no sense to me to remove those lower frequencies at that position in the car. I suspect I'll need to dynamat the enclosures or damp them a bit better. Im wondering if the japanese market sound preference is for a 'brighter, less bassy sound' im gonna get under the seat and switch some feeds around today and investigate... Cheers.

👋 👋

Good morning alll, first time posting here, but have pestered many on an Alphard FB group.. I bought a lovely 3.5 20 series in december and i reinstated the factory radio as the Android auto unit that was already retro fitted cut a lot of functionally (camera/speakers) im quite happy with the original head unit, i have the 18 spkr system. Ive already installed a second compact active sub which has filled in a mid bass hole but tbh id like to swap out the front door 16x9 speakers for better units. In the japanese documentation ive found, the originals are listed as being 'mid range' units and i want full range down there in the doors... Im trying to ascertain if the factory speaker units have crossovers to cut the low frequency or whether the underseat 480w amp is doing the crossover part....if thats the case it preterbs me that theres not a full range high level output going to the front... Im rather hoping those door speakers have a crossover. Im driving my amplified sub from a rear full range high level amp output on the factory amp, it would be a loy easier if i could run any additional amps off the front soundstage then i wouldnt have to fanny around with the fader on the headunit and gain controls on the sub. Obviously any better suggestions welcome... I have no interest in swapping out the headunit. Many thanks - Chris