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When I purcased my Alphard the Dealer had to have it MOT Tested and two new tyres were fitted[plus some disc pads and rear fog light]. Yesterday I decided to fit the mud flaps I had purchased to the rear and front. The rears fitted quite easily, when I went to fit the front set, removing the wheels became a problem as I had to put a 3 foot long tube on the wheel brace to get enough leverage to undo the nuts on both sides. This was obviously a severe case of over tightening when new tyres were fitted and an ratchet air tool used to refit the wheel nuts and not a torque wrench set at the correct torque.

Once I had fitted the mud flaps I put the wheels back on and tightened the nuts enough so that I could lower the Alphard down ready to use a torque wrench set at the recommended torque of 105N.m.[as stated in the Owners Handbook], The correct way to do this is to gradually tighten the nuts diagonally opposite a small amount at a time until the torque wrench"clicks".All was going well until on one nut, long before I reached the correct setting, went slack and I realised the wheel stud had sheared.There is another which feels as though it will shear!

I have seen this happen before on wheel nuts that have been severely over tightened using an air gun. So be warned if you you have wheels removed for any reason,make sure they are tightened using a good quality torque wrench.

Luckily wheel studs and nuts are readily available and are on the way, but it does mean I have to strip off a front brake calliper and disc and hope I can change the broken stud without having to remove the hub.

 

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2 hours ago, starider said:

When I purcased my Alphard the Dealer had to have it MOT Tested and two new tyres were fitted[plus some disc pads and rear fog light]. Yesterday I decided to fit the mud flaps I had purchased to the rear and front. The rears fitted quite easily, when I went to fit the front set, removing the wheels became a problem as I had to put a 3 foot long tube on the wheel brace to get enough leverage to undo the nuts on both sides. This was obviously a severe case of over tightening when new tyres were fitted and an ratchet air tool used to refit the wheel nuts and not a torque wrench set at the correct torque.

Once I had fitted the mud flaps I put the wheels back on and tightened the nuts enough so that I could lower the Alphard down ready to use a torque wrench set at the recommended torque of 105N.m.[as stated in the Owners Handbook], The correct way to do this is to gradually tighten the nuts diagonally opposite a small amount at a time until the torque wrench"clicks".All was going well until on one nut, long before I reached the correct setting, went slack and I realised the wheel stud had sheared.There is another which feels as though it will shear!

I have seen this happen before on wheel nuts that have been severely over tightened using an air gun. So be warned if you you have wheels removed for any reason,make sure they are tightened using a good quality torque wrench.

Luckily wheel studs and nuts are readily available and are on the way, but it does mean I have to strip off a front brake calliper and disc and hope I can change the broken stud without having to remove the hub.

 

 

Thanks to you, Starider, for warning us all of this.

The JPNZ manual does specify 105nM torque. Slightly over 80 foot pounds.

I have a really good torque wrench and, without checking, I doubt it goes to 80 !

I'll check, but it seems, more investment required.

 

I wish you the very best of luck with your repair.

Where did you get the parts ?

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Try using an impact wrench (air or electric) instead of 3 foot long breaker bars; the vibrations from the impact gun help to Loosen the nuts. You’re right though, almost certainly overtightened with an air gun but this note of caution applies to

any vehicle and the warning sign is having to use Breaker bars over about 1.5 or maybe 2 Ft length.

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My impact wrench would not shift the nuts, which shows how tight they had been. The rear nuts were fine,unfortunately the only way to shift the fronts was to increase the length of leverage.

Not boasting, but I have been in and involved with the motor trade for over 50 years and still have most of the kit,including a 4 post lift in one of our barns. As I have said it's important when you have tyres fitted make sure you see the fitter use a torque wrench for the final tightening.

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Just had a thought, does anyone know the best place to purchase a set of 4 locking wheel nuts and the key socket.Had a look on fleabay, but it's difficult to find sets for alloy wheels with the washers, rather than the taper. If I punch in the Alphard model details most say "not suitable for this model"!

Found the wheel studs on Ebay. Went for the expensive ones.

Edited by starider
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7 hours ago, starider said:

My impact wrench would not shift the nuts, which shows how tight they had been. The rear nuts were fine,unfortunately the only way to shift the fronts was to increase the length of leverage.

Not boasting, but I have been in and involved with the motor trade for over 50 years and still have most of the kit,including a 4 post lift in one of our barns. As I have said it's important when you have tyres fitted make sure you see the fitter use a torque wrench for the final tightening.

Ah … fair enough. Oh dear … well at least you’re the right person to fix it too!

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10 hours ago, starider said:

My impact wrench would not shift the nuts, which shows how tight they had been. The rear nuts were fine,unfortunately the only way to shift the fronts was to increase the length of leverage.

Not boasting, but I have been in and involved with the motor trade for over 50 years and still have most of the kit,including a 4 post lift in one of our barns. As I have said it's important when you have tyres fitted make sure you see the fitter use a torque wrench for the final tightening.

 

So I know where to visit when I need some braided brake pipes fitting !

Edited by Rojie
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Hi wjvh, no worries, I have tended not to "let on" about my time in the motor trade, but there are times when I have to. When I was Manager of a large Dealership we sold two makes of car, Alfa Romeo and DAF. It was when Volvo bought out DAF, that I did 3 years teacher training and then taught Technology[including Motor Vehicle Studies]  to 11 to 18 year olds for 26 years at various schools].I also used to teach evening classes to adults for general car maintenance.

I hope to help Alphard Owners if I can, via these pages once I get to know more about these vehicles. If they are anything like the 2 Toyota Hilux's I've owned in the past,the Alphard should give years of service.

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Hi Rojie, don't forget I'm very ancient, that's the reason for the lift, several years ago I was finding it more and more difficult to get under vehicles on the floor and even more difficult to get up so the 4 posterwas purchased. Since I had Covid and finished up in Intensive Care last November, it's more difficult now, although I have almost totally recovered.

I know it's not Alphard related,but make sure you get your Covid Jabs. I wouldn't wish a serious dose of Covid on my worst enemy!!

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I've had my first two jabs; waiting for the third. I do have my senior moments; but forgetting the Jab won't be one of them !

Glad you have almost fully recovered.

 

I think we should consider starting a youtube channel, or make a TV programme about maintaining an Alphie.

 

Gerry and the Atrics, or, Codger and Rodger, or Heaven in Devon.

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Third jab this coming Monday. So much for the announcement that we should not have to travel more than 10miles, we have to go to Westward Ho!, a 40mile round trip! and my wife couldn't get hers until the following Monday so that's 80miles in total!! To use public transport would be virtually impossible. 3 buses a week. One to Barnstaple,one to Holsworthy and one to Tavistock,

Hmm,it may be an idea to put something on film, but my wife and I have nothing to do with any social media, having seen the effect it has on many people's lives. we both have mobiles, but they are rarely used and mostly as cameras.

If the studs arrive, we'll use the Alphard for the 2 trips and possibly return home down the Atlantic Highway to Bude for fish and chips.It's little point having vehicles which are not used and the Alphard is of a size that it can be used for general use as well as camping. We have several vehicles to use, my wife has a Ford Connect Van for carrying"stuff", there is also a Dacia Duster, so they are also used in rotation. I have a1973 DAF 33 Van and a 1968 Morris Minor Van which are nearing full restoration and they will also be used. I won't go on about the other vehicle we have, but there are more!

KEEP JABBING!!

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Hi, fitted a new front wheel stud in just over 35 mins. If it's of interest I will describe the method and tools needed. It can be carried out by anyone who has a reasonable understanding of tools and working carefully . Possibly the only piece of specialist equipment needed is a good quality Torque Wrench. Around £20 from fleabay and always useful for many tightenig jobs.

 

Another "Beware" topic arose when I checked the fluids in the engine compartment. I topped up the screen washer bottle and right infront of me was the air filter,and noticing the filter housing was only retained by 2 lever catches, carefully swung the front section towards me to expose the filter element and what a state it was in,I hadn't seen one so filthy for years. So straight onto my motor factor who amazingly had on one the shelf, which was delivered within the hour and well under a tenner.

So if you are unhappy with your fuel consumption check your airfilter element. The part number is for my 2.4 petrol. and the make of the filter HERTH+BUSS

 [JAKOPARTS] PtNo. J1322078. If you can't get this brand , any good motor factor should be able to cross reference from these numbers.

Edited by starider
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