Rojie

I don't feel confident in recommending any 'fitters'of Head Units, except Ben Hau. To be clear, I am NOT suggesting any other fitters are not entirely capable; just that I wouldn't know if they are, or not. I have no intention of 'upgrading / replacing' my head unit, so it is not an area of knowledge that I have. I do know that many installations are entirely successful, whereas some, regrettably, are not. My main use is the camera the facilities. I use a PC (with CD/DVD) and Bose for 'entertainment'. We have some esteemed members who are far more experienced in this arena than I. Hopefully they can make some suggestions for you.

Fill up test. Record mileage/kilometer reading. Fill tank. Run to about a quarter full. Record odometer again. Fill tank. Consumption is distance covered divided by fuel used. This, of course, assumes your odometer records distance correctly ! And is, of course, an average; you may need to consider your driving style and traffic too and 'adjust' accordingly. But, it provides a benchmark.

I think your electronics are suspect and suspect you probably get a better mileage.

185/37 is 5. 5m / l is 22.5 mpg. Not seriuously bad, depending on traffic and driving style.

14mpg. around town with a 3.5L seems OK to me !

Hello Jimmy, Welcome to the Forum. Has you battery been disconnected ?

Hello Andy, Welcome to the Forum. There are many of us that share your reluctance !

A Job's worth situation !

Hello Khurram, Welcome to the Forum.

There is a long thread on this topic. There are several opinions. Some say yes others say no ! Some members report E5 gives better economy, even factoring the cost. Others dispute this. Me? I run E5 unless not available. Search for E5 or E10 in this Forum.

Have you verified that the reading is probably accurate ? The fill up test ? Or that the van is a gas guzzler, or has suspect electronics.

lLots of space, but handles like a tram

Hello Richard, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Brendan, If your (starter) battery if not kept in fully charged condition, at all times, you are likely to see issues. Vehicles will draw current whilst idle, as not all circuits are isolated by the ignition. You could disconnect the negative terminal, and / or, fit a high current switch in the negative lead. In my opinion, neither is necessary if you keep your battery fully charged. If your battery is being discharged by several door operations you should get your battery tested under load.

Alasdair's photos are exactly what you need should you decide to get some. They are not cheap. Investigate programming costs if / before we you buy; as they can be surprising and difficult to locate where to have them done. It is unlikely a Toyota dealer will do it for you.

The fobs for (my) the keyless entry system, smart system, have only three buttons. Lock, unlock and tailgate.

If you bought from a dealer, take it back and have them fix it. If you bought privately ..... Lee, Will the steering need re-aligning ?

Hello Krysztof, Welcome to the Forum.

Hello Ted, Welcome to the Forum.

I think you were told wrong. The 2.4 is chain, the 3.0 is belt, the 3.5 is chain. Timing chains do not, usually, need renewing. I don't know whether your engine has tensioners, most engines do. Tensioners can need renewing from time to time. If I'm wrong, I am sure other 3.5L owners will point that out pdq !

Hello Enam, Welcome to the Forum. Timing belt will not need changing. Your engine is fitted with a chain system ! Unfortunately, I don't know what the recommended mileage is for new chains (mine has belt) system; but others will.

Well done. Thanks for letting us all know.

Hello Paul, Welcome to the Forum. There's lots of info within these pages. So you'll have plenty of reading to do.

Sorry, I don't have the faintest idea where to start. I seem to recall a previous response indicating the system used several sensors, all interlinked through an ECU.

Unfortunately, the flashing indicates a fault. The head lights should still work fine, but won't turn as you steer and change speed !