arthurj

I wouldn't bother with buying an AGM, there's no advantage on the hybrid as it's the hybrid battery that runs all the high-current systems like air-con and starting the engine, and like you say the alternator might not be able to supply the needed power.

I don't know about the 1st-gen but for the 2nd-gen hybrid you need a regular 12V lead-acid battery but it must have a compatible temperature monitor. I don't know if that's integral to the battery or something you can add. I believe the same batteries are also used by the Estima hybrids so maybe an Estima forum can help source an alternative?

[EDIT] Try your battery charger first though. I have a 4A trickle charger that I need to use periodically, because the hybrid just fails to start when it falls below about 10V, which is about after a week of no use for me. I connect it to the emergency charging port under the hood and it takes a day or so to charge up fully, but then all is right.

Yeah, it’s where the 12V battery goes in my 20 Hybrid. It does run the lights and accessories and it primes the hybrid systems for first start, but it’s a regular lead-acid.

There isn’t that angled compartment lining in mine, it’s just a hole with a battery holder. Looks like you get a nice extra cubby!

The biggest thing that is stopping me from getting a replacement radio is that I have a roof monitor, and I haven't found a replacement that allows me to show GPS navigation in the front and play a movie in the back at the same time while driving. It's always mirroring exactly what's on the screen in front. The "Ben Hau" carplay retrofit doesn't allow that either, as far as I can tell.

The OEM unit does do that. Although the inbuilt navgation doesn't work, I do have a different display on in the front and can also control volume and stop the movie if I need to. The kids love having a cinema in the back on a long trip.

Yeah it can feel a lot like that sometimes

No, there's no option to switch to English on mine. As i understand it, the option to switch languages was only for export cars (Malaysia/Russia), not JDM cars. Looking at youtube videos for other JDM Toyotas, I think that around 2014 they got language options, but mine's 2012.

This is how you get to the ERC code menu. Hold the map button while flashing the car lights a few times.

When you get to the right option it will show you a code (which sometimes changes, I'm not sure how often) and a keypad underneath. You need THAT code to generate a correct ERC code.

So to generate the code either you can try this app that that threepot posted here...

...or contact Shareef at http://www.navigationdiskjp.com. His WhatsApp details are on the site. He'll ask for the radio model and that code that was displayed on the ERC page of the radio. He sent me a paypal invoice for £15 and he sent me the code a couple of minutes after I paid it (I didn't know about the app at the time). I entered the code on the ERC page and the radio was unlocked.

After unlocking, the radio resets and goes through a setup stage. I really recommend getting Google Translate on your phone so you can see what's going on. If you don't complete setup properly it will prompt you again the next time you start the car. Make sure you set your password to something you remember or you'll have to do it all over again.

I have a very similar radio to yours (NHZN-X62G). Not sure what the difference is, but based on that…

1) No. Use Google Translate on your phone to work out what’s going on.

2) No, it will think you’re in open water. You won’t find map updates for these HDD models online.

3) It will work once you unlock the radio. Check out the thread I linked to in the other thread. You need to reset the unlock code by generating another unlock code, either by using a generator app or by sending £15 to a guy in Malaysia who will (genuinely!) generate a reset code for you.

4) The normal recommendation is a guy called Ben Hau in Birmingham. He can add a CarPlay/Android Auto option to your radio. Or you can replace it with a whole new unit. Both will cost £300-400.

Despite being in Japanese, not having GPS and not receiving any Station other than R2, it’s actually a great radio.

This is the app, but try that password above first.

That’s a password entry screen, I had the same problem. If you don’t know the password need to reset it, but to do that you first need to generate a code. Someone posted an app on here that should do it, let me see if I can find it.

BTW the 4 buttons bottom left are different keyboards, including English characters and numbers.

[EDIT] The line at the top is a custom password prompt so you could try FYHARO1245

I suspect it's the hybrid battery system, rather than the 12V. The 12V is required to boot up the hybrid systems when first starting it up. If the battery isn't working properly or doesn't have enough voltage, you'll know, because it will fail to switch on. But all engine functions should run off the hybrid battery after that first step, including restarting the engine, so I can't see why the 12V battery would cause the car to go into a safety mode while it's actually driving.

I have the Viofo A129 Duo Plus front and rear combo. The rear one’s fine through the tinted glass, it’s up close to the window so you don’t really see the tint. The problem at night is more that headlights are strong and drown everything out in the rear camera, even with HDR, but I can still make out number plates if they’re close enough and it would still be good evidence in the event of an accident

I got the standard underbody kit with the injector nozzle. Comes with a 2L bottle and some think paint-on grease and I have just over 1/3 left. It’s not as cheap as waxoyl but cheaper than getting someone to do it for me. On the other hand, you’re supposed to do it at least once a year, but it was pretty easy to do so I’m ok with that.

The only thing I covered up was the brake pads, and that was just with a bit of cardboard. It’s lanolin grease, which doesn’t conduct electricity, burn at engine temperatures or rot your tyres. It dries clear but makes the metal much darker, like it’s wet even when it’s not, and it’s slightly greasy to the touch.

It stinks of sheep, especially if you spray the exhaust, but the smell fades to nothing after a week or so.

9 minutes ago, Teekay said:

Roughly how much, I’ll ask my local.

£281.78 for replacing both drop links. £89.41 for each link and £95 Labour.

Parts 48820-02070 x2 and 90179-12151 x4.

I put two coats of Lanoguard on mine and it was no bother at all. I was a bit put off by how messy waxoyl seemed to be, and also heard some stories about MOTs failing if they can’t see through the undercoat.
 

Jacked the car up and slid under on cardboard. First coat took me about 2 hours, second was done a few weeks later in less than an hour. Will give it a good inspection in the new year to see how well it performs.

My Toyota garage replaced mine no problem, but they weren’t cheap.

How much were they, if you don’t mind me asking? Was looking for OEM 17” or 18” but they seem to cost a small fortune

Can you identify what model rear screen do you have? In mine the IR receiver is part of the screen assembly.

I have an 11” rear screen and remote but no premium sound system. I have the manual for it too.

On 10/11/2022 at 4:54 PM, Chris.ac said:

trim level.

My 20 series came with 17

AFAIK all the 20 series *hybrids* come with 16” regardless of trim level (mine’s a ZR). The 17s do look quite a bit better though.

Tyres make all the difference though. I replaced the old Pirelli Scorpion Verdes with Goodyear EfficientGrip SUV and they are much quieter and softer.

215/65R16 98H on mine. All the hybrid 20 series come with 16s, as far as I can tell.

2 hours ago, Geralt said:

I think your speedo will over-read and the ABS calibration won't be optimal.

The tire circumference is basically the same on both 16” and 17” rims, the sidewall is just bigger on the 16 to compensate for the smaller rim. No change in reported speed.

My 20 series doesn’t have a front or 360 cam fitted. I’d quite like to add a front cam at least, as seeing the clearance in front it quite tough. I was wondering if I could buy a used OEM camera and simply plug it in to the OEM radio?

I know I wouldn’t have the steering wheel control but would that matter?

Are you sure your aux battery’s not flat? I left my OBD reader plugged in while I went away for a few days and my hybrid wouldn’t start. I bought a 4 amp trickle charger from Argos and let the battery charge to max for a couple of days, then the car started fine.

You don’t need to take out the battery to charge it either, there’s an emergency charging connector under the hood.

I tapped the passenger-side inside fuse box for mine and ran the cable under the trim and down the left-hand pillar. There’s a bolt behind the cover at the bottom which you can use to earth it.

Its easier to get to the fuse box if you remove the glove box. Open it, then there’s a little rubber attachment on the left side that you can unhook, then the glove box opens further and you can detach it easily.

14 minutes ago, ThuMentaliss said:

with respect how do you intend to check it yourself ?

I mean is it something I can easily identify by raising the car up on jack stands and taking a look underneath?

The local Toyota garage will do the work for sure and source any Alphard parts no problem, but they cost an absolute bomb and last time tried to make me pay for a load of extra work. I know they'll be able to do the work but I don't trust them not to try to overcharge me, so I want to know as much about it as I can.

Sounds expensive

Any way check them myself? I'm not a mechanic and do intend to take it to the garage, but I like to know exactly what's up so I don't get ripped off.

If you sign up to one of those Japanese car auction sites, often there’s a place where you can enter the frame number and it gives you the auction history, which can include the trim level.

When I took my Vellfire to get serviced about 8 weeks ago the Toyota garage replaced both drop links, due to worn covers. Since then I’ve noticed a knocking sound from drivers side front when going over bumps, which I thought I was imagining at first but is now definitely there. I’ve also started to notice a bit of play when turning the wheel left & right when stationary.

I had a look at the drop links and there’s no sign of them being loose at either end, but I don’t really know what I’m looking for.

Question is: is it likely to be something to do with the job the garage did?

If so I’ll take it back to the Toyota garage and moan at them until they fix it for free. Otherwise I’ll take it somewhere that will be cheaper.