Chris.ac

You guys really need to learn how to disconnect the HV and 12v batteries when in storage, I'm sure there is a master fuse in the engine bay, and also a kill switch on the hv battery inverter ourself

Have none of you tried to purchase the Toyota service manuals on CDROM? 

They can be found for around £70 including shipping from Japan. 

Club together and buy one - this is what you are after (I'm not the seller, and you can find this cheaper, this is to show what you need) 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364072895945

The manuals include full diagnostic flowchart and all the codes that can be o/p from the obd port. 

We can only help so much, but without the source tech manual specifically for the hybrid, we are operating blind. 

In they past, I've forked out my own cash to help out (I have access to the 10 and 20 non-hybrid series technical manuals), or spent many hours to source data online that I can share (again, for 10 and 20 series non-hybrid I have posted links to online copies of the technical manuals) , I am pretty sure this info is available online for the hybrid too, but you will need to use Japanese or Malaysian search sites. 

Did car work fine before battery went flat? 

There are some main high current fuses, one of these must have blown. 

Now the reason for the initial flat battery, this is the concern. 

A battery going flat would not blow fuses, so something happened, maybe a rodent has chewed through some wire? Are the battery clamps free of rust? 

Auto electrician should be able to check wiring from battery to alternator and the main fuses pretty quickly, but if the problem lies beyond that, that's when it may take time. 

All the electrical diagrams are available, but labelled in Japanese at:

http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/index4.html

Winter pack fog light on the 10 series. 

The wiring socket should be there (the existing sidelight on the 'middle' lights has an additional unused wire - that is the fog live) 

You could look at the wiring diagrams. 

I've avoided my laptop whilst on Xmas break, so not ready for me to check. 

I believe the active antenna in the spoiler and right side rear glass has a switched live feed, as they come on with headunit. 

Not enough information. 

Why was battery changed? 

What was the status before the change? Warning lights etc? 

When you say 'dead' is this everything? Dashboard lights, central locking, brake lights, etc etc. 

If you connect battery reversed, although most of the electrics are protected, you could damage the ecu. 

On 12/24/2022 at 6:07 PM, maq said:

Hmmm... I'm getting same issues. Mine is 2012 model.

 

What made you buy techstream software?

Techstream is an official tool for diagnosis of toyota from 1996.

Fully supports JDM vehicles.

If you have a laptop, it is the best tool for under £50 - you can buy VCI cable and copy of techstream on ebay.

My point wasn't clear. I mean the camera unit mounting itself, the molding and mount position, it may be possible to buy a 30 series rear view camera (separate from reversing camera which is fitted near number plate.) 

Not suggesting replacing the internal rear view camera (which has redundancy built in already, because the 30 series mirror shows you to use old school or digital (the digital allows you to zoom, check blind spots) 

I have the limo privacy tint, so the sides are near black from outside, with the rear being slightly more transparent. 

Have you tried looking at how the 30 series digital rear view mirror camera is set up? 

I have not done so yet, but it may be something that can be fitted for a more oem look

Type 'techstream key programming' in to YouTube. 

Plenty of videos to suit all toyota key types. 

The procedure is pretty much the same for all, it's such a quick process writing it out would take longer. 

Photo of head unit? They're is more then one type of genuine headunit, based on 3 configurations of speaker and amplifier. 

There is also a cut off period where the minidisc was removed. 

On 12/17/2022 at 12:02 AM, Teekay said:

Hi I was looking at the rear windscreen and it looked like there is no film but the glass itself is tinted. Are you sure there should be some film? Any first hand experience? @Chris.ac

Mine is definitely tinted with film, it's factory fitted but there are a few small damage spots from scratches that confirm it's a film

I'm looking at the module that allows you to stop/start engine, lock/unlock doors, open/close windows and set the cabin climate control/AC via mobile phone app. 

Around £250 DIY. 

The AC control for the summer would be nice. 

need new rails, with the sound proofing panels, thermal under carpets an top carpet.

It can be done, but not just a simple seat swap

12 hours ago, Philllx said:

I got supplied version 17, using the v12 on the link which may as well stick with I presume the newer version techstream won't give any more options than the v12.

Correct, the newer version would be useful if you had a 30 series. 

I tried both versions, no new options, so don't waste your time trying to get the 64bit drivers working etc. 

Just now, Chris.ac said:

Wait.

You have no buttons on key and no other remote for the central locking, etc? 

And the battery you replaced was the main 12v car battery? 

Even the manual key has a small chip in it that activates when key is inserted in to ignition barrel (like wireless charging) the ignition barrel has the reader for the chip in the key. 

Another thing I have seen, is some owners 'hide' the immobiliser fob/key in the car, sometimes under the drivers side plastic step. 

Wait.

You have no buttons on key and no other remote for the central locking, etc? 

And the battery you replaced was the main 12v car battery? 

Could you try the procedure here:

http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/raw_content/AWI4PXGCrzlLPWuuVT9A

Open in chrome browser and you can use the built in translation from Russian to English. 

Interestingly, if the system detected a short circuit, it disables the speakers. 

Have you made any modifications to wiring? 

Could you try the procedure here:

http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/raw_content/AWI4PXGCrzlLPWuuVT9A

Open in chrome browser and you can use the built in translation from Russian to English. 

I should say, the supplied techstream software - may be newer, but is not necessary, as the ecu in the alphards will be pre 2015 and work fine with the older installation in the virtual machine

using the virtual machine copy from that link, it will create a 32bit installation, all preconfigured.

no sounds at all, even menu beeps? do you have 18speaker system with external amp? (18speakers you will have a center dashboard speaker and 6 roof speakers)

May be the amplifier fuse has blown.

Search by engine, 1mz-fe, several lexus and Toyota use same alternator. 

Example: https://www.startermotoralternator.com/xik2975-alternator-for-lexus-toyota

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311514982429

Search by engine, 1mz-fe, several lexus and Toyota use same alternator. 

Example: https://www.startermotoralternator.com/xik2975-alternator-for-lexus-toyota

I just went with Mark Richards, I got frustrated with the various nonsense from other insurers e.g. alphard, but only 2.4lt or vellfire with others but no alphard. 

You'd think they would all align their database the way they continuously prattle on about sharing data. 

It all seems underhanded, like they are deliberately trying to miss-sell, in order to slopey shoulders any claims. 

From what I recall, roof racks from Thule were discontinued once the 30 series was launched, but kits from japan and Australia are still available - I think the load rate was up to 75kg, so as long as the tent box is under that you should be fine, once stationary you can multiply by 5 for occupant weight.

In uk many are converted with pop top roofs, usually the 10 series.

Maybe another route is to find a similar chassis, the 10 series shared Granvia/hiace body type.

I have the datasheets for the safety crumple zones in the roof, but nothing about max loading unfortunately.