Chris.ac

There was a site I came across that will do a full health check on JDM hybrids, including disassembly of the cooling blower motors to clean out dust etc. I cannot find it at moment in my history - I did come across the attached document detailing disassembly for the 20 series hybrid: Hybrid Vehicle Dismantling Manual for ATH20 - Alphard HV.pdf What does the head unit in your car look like? some diagnostics are usually hidden in service menu (hold down top row left button and flick sidelights on and off 3 times with ignition on) techstream does have the hybrid as a selectable option, but I couldn't tell you its capability in that respect.

Clearly its down to individuals, because Timpson's in Exeter said they cannot cut the key unless its provided by them for 'reasons' (probably a juicy mark-up), where as my local key cutter took a look at the existing key and said sure, but I'd have to supply a blank. Timpson's In Kings Lynn, they seemed happy to do it, and were interested because they had already had a couple of people approach them to cut a key, but without blanks they had to turn them away. They said if the key didn't work, they'd refund, because it was the first one they tried of that type, and I gave them the details of where I bought my blank from. Key works fine.

yep

Toyota engine codes ending with -FE are safe to use E10. If you regularly drive the vehicle and allow the tank to get low, you should be fine. There is a minor performance hit which will reduce your MPG over E5 fuel, so the cost difference starts to become negligable. If you can afford the slightly more expensive E5, keep using that, I think the main issue is if you keep swapping back and forth, as the ECU needs to relearn trim levels and feed rates, which means each time you change fuel type you will get lower MPG for a portion of the tank while it relearns.

cost I think £12, at one of those booths attached to Sainsbury's. edit

Here's a datasheet on the anti-corrosion measures in place on 2008 onwards: m_bo_0012.pdf

Ahh, so this may be a minor strength of the techstream software then, as I am certain I have seen these as options.

Link here to a russian mirror of the electronic workshop manual: http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/viewdoc/AWI4O_qhU9h2CeTmduUr If you funnel down through the Power Source / Network section, you can see the battery has a current sensor and temperature sensor. Attached circuit diagram, there is a lot of data here, diagnosis, circuit layouts, components, disassembly instructions etc.

Just for info, on a 20 series, the following data sheets show all the possible settings accessible via the canbus/obd port: m_be_0013.pdf PSD and PBD in the list stand for Power Side doors and Power back door

The 2nd gen do have an additional monitoring system attached to the battery terminal. I think this is in the workshop manual, too; I will try and confirm.

your previous 'cool' reading was probably down to the thermostat already being faulty, mine sits at just under the halfway mark, even on a several hundred mile commute.

look like standard cooker gas control valves, any old cooker knobs should fit, I just checked a portable 2 burner I have for camping, has the same looking pins.

thanks, different shape connectors, but maybe some commonality in places, will combine with what I have and do some meter reading when I get time.

ah, yes, now I understand.

I ordered this last year (price remains the same £55) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255021256169 He does 3 (single sliding door!), 4 and 5 button (If you have electric opening boot) You may be able to find cheaper, but the key and at the time the VCI adaptor with techstream was under £100 Send a message to him to confirm compatibility with Alphard.

i was actually quite amused, when i played a DVD in the back, my children actually stopped using their mobiles for the duration! I didnt think it possible!

Sorry, just to be clear - what BT part? I have jotted out all the wire colours on paper, and am trying to cross check against various wiring schematics to slowly tick them off. Identified the Blue GVIF plug is for front and side cameras. Brown GVIF is Digital TV, so effectively a free high res video input that can be used to feed a 360camera system or a UK spec TV decoder (Research will follow). The Brown GVIF has to be connected along with the 12 pin grey plug (Video signal to the rear dropdown monitor) The black 8pin connector is the AUX AV (which I am using to feed android auto/carplay) The other large connector is 22 pins+a removable 8pin connector - the 8pin part is what connects to the external 18speaker amplifier - what the other 22 pins do I have not figured yet) The main power connector is parking brake, reverse sense, speed sense, steering controls, ACC, IG, Battery, Ground, rear camera, (Maybe microphone too) The white connector of 6pins+a digital coax, no idea yet. FM/AM antenna is the two round pins in a socket, GPS is the small grey socket, the other two antenna sockets must be for ETC, DTV, the 'G' connect and cellular systems. ETC video feed, and sonar connects to some of the pins (Sonar will display on the screen if you remove the camera feeds) Wish there was a wiring schematic for this headunit! but I am getting there

2010 an additional air cool radiator was added passenger side cavity in front of wheel/behind bumper for the U660E transmission. m_01_0035.pdf unfortunately, I believe the 2.4lt engine uses a U241E transmission (4speed auto) or the CVT transaxle - I am missing that page detailing this model revision!

blue and black wires, speed sense (prevents fiddling with satnav/GPS whist moving, pointless to us as its Japan specific) and parking brake. I taped up loom side. connect the socket side wires to earth. I plan on wiring to a switch at some point, do I can revert to standard operation.

blue and black wires, speed sense (prevents fiddling with satnav/GPS whist moving, pointless to us as its Japan specific) and parking brake. I taped up loom side. connect the socket side wires to earth.

will do in the morning

yeah, some android headunits (like the tesla style ones) have a canbus connection, and let you adjust the settings like in carscanner, too.

As far as I can see, carscanner accesses the same ECUs as techstream. I bought techstream just to program my own spare key, as the cost of the cable/software and unprogrammed key was less than a key to be supplied and programmed for me by a specialist! If you can get a decent BT OBD2 dongle, carscanner is perfectly adequate Edit: I leave the BT dongle connected permantly, so I can fire up carscanner whenever I want to do checks, or have additional gauges on display, one of the gauges I found useful was the one showing what gear you were currently in, as when in 'D' it will actually show the gear changes numerically

If you want a simple setup of the software and drivers, you can install a virtual machine of windows xp with techstream preinstalled - over on this forum. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/

I have a similar USB socket as Steve linked, except mine is 'reversible port' so you can connect the usb cable either way around, good when fumbling with eyes on the road.