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Chris.ac

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Everything posted by Chris.ac

  1. also - from inside, with all the doors closed, see if the switch for the boot light turns the light on/off, it shouldnt do anything if the boot is closed properly, but if that is lighting up, it may be your boot that is not closing properly rather than one of the 4 doors
  2. try actuating the little plunger switch on the drivers door pillar a few times to see if maybe its not pushing in far enough when door is closed, you can usually remove the screw holding it in and pop the switch out too - if this turns off the light on the dash, then the switch is faulty
  3. this will definately be linked to your door indicator on your dash too. Try turning your courtesy/dome lights to 'door opened' mode, if they are lit up with all the doors shut, then you may have a dodgy door switch
  4. flashing car = immobiliser is active green light near key hole? photo? on my older Regius, there was a plastic ring around the ignition barrel that illuminated when the drivers door was opened, so you could see where to put the key, in the dark.
  5. someone needs to archive that site, as the owner stopped supporting it a few years back.
  6. yeah, apart from the low resolution of some of the drawings, all the info is really useful, full write ups of how the sliding doors work, the electronic signals, the mechanics. Full write up on the drivetrains, engine stripdown etc etc. The next thing to do is find a full manual for the hybrid models!
  7. worst that could happen, is that the pin will need help by holding wire as you connect plugs, because it is a bit loose in the socket
  8. one at the bottom of the picture
  9. Can confirm, car scanner even allows me to change the 'dealer' settings for auto windows, lights, buzzers etc
  10. Anyone using this? if using chrome, when you finally navigate to the page you need, goto the link in the address bar and remove the part that says '_base' e.g: http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339k0307303001_base.html becomes: http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339k0307303001.html Chrome can now translate the page! e.g.
  11. A few months late, but this page shows dimensions, with sketches you can open and zoom in to for 2004 model http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339k0205589002.html
  12. could you show image of the dongle, some of them do not have the chip fitted that can communicate with JDM protocol
  13. is it a blanking pin, or is it a piece of plastic tag that is supposed to 'lock' the pin in place to stop it getting pulled out? can you see through, i.e. is there a actual hole all the way through for the pin to go?
  14. https://www.youtube.com/c/TCsAnythingGoes/videos He has many good videos, replacing belt, cleaning the rear heater matrix, various strip downs etc
  15. just connect to the red and white RCA connectors and select AUX on the headunit, because I am unsure how to disassemble the middle console on the 10 series, I am unsure of the way its wired up - but on mine, the RCA connectors are able to be removed from their holder and theoretically rerouted up through the console
  16. Yes, by all accounts, the box that ben will fit (similar to the one posted in my pdf) 'should' have an extra video input, this could be a Digital TV box. The system installed comprises an android media box, that either uses the aux input, or sits inbetween the existing GVIF connector for the navigation system or parking assist system. It then adds a small board that intercepts the touchscreen and either passes it to the headunit or the android box depending on what is displayed on the screen. So you are really just piggybacking a video signal on to a video signal
  17. just use stereo phono to 3.5mm stereo jack connected to the aux in on the rear of centre console. perhaps opening up the rear centre console and redirecting the rca connectors with an extension cable to wherever you need is the simplest, cheapest option. you could also get one of those adaptors that use a radio frequency, they often have stereo inputs too. like this one, yes its on Amazon, im sure I will get in trouble for posting links one day, but this is for an example. Adds audio input, usb storage, sdcard, 2 additional USB charging ports, a remote and controls. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clydek-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Charging/dp/B08DCTCZ2K/ref=sr_1_9?c=ts&keywords=Car+Audio+FM+Transmitters&qid=1649015535&s=electronics&sr=1-9&ts_id=528666031
  18. So it looks the wiring logic will keep the right door brake light permanently illuminated when fog is on
  19. Rear fog is in the right hand side tail/brake light in the door. The connector to this has a 4 wire connector. (connector V18)
  20. Message me, or ask here if you need help, all this info came from http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/index2.html
  21. factory rear fog switch goes in 2nd switch slot (number 8 in diagram) so your original wiring and connectivity to the back of the car will be miles easier and 'oem' to use as it will be rated properly
  22. You can find all the connectors and pins and colours of wires and their locations in the car if you have the patience to translate some of the pages. From the diagrams, it looks like there is a rear fog indicator on the dash clocks (check to see if you can see it by shining a torch on the clockface)
  23. rear fog wiring for 10 series can be found here: http://fsm.japanclassic.ru/toyota/2002.5_7a037_alphard_anh1,mnh1/x339/servinfo/x339i0307000383_frame.html
  24. typical, lol, its definitely stamped on the engine block somewhere, its a common engine type, so a search for the engine itself will probably throw up the location.
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