Geralt

Having replaced my battery this year, my advice is to research and choose your battery ahead of when you might want to buy it. That way your down time will be minimised if yours dies suddenly. Or you could preemptively replace it. Lead acid batteries are one of the most recycled automotive products.

When you experience this, is the engine on? If not, it might be a sign of a failing battery. To move one of those heavy doors takes a lot of work and the battery voltage will dip if the alternator is not running. If I remember correctly, motor rotational velocity is proportional to voltage. Lower voltage means lower door speed. Cold temperatures will reduce electrical resistance but I think it is probably a negligible factor.

Guessing that there’s plastic tabs that need to squeezed around the whole vent mounding. You can probably get to them by gently prising it away from the roof lining with trim tools.

Nothing mentioned here either: https://www.trav4.net/coolant-537.html

Sorry, wrong engine. Let me have another look.

Are you sure there is one? There's none mentioned here: https://www.tcamanual.com/coolant_1mz_8722_fe_3mz_8722_fe_-587.html

Looks like clicking the PDF doesn't work:

Do you mean for storage over the winter? My view is that for the sake of all the other components and fluids too, you're better off going for a drive for 20-30 mins every month. Not only does this charge the battery, you're reducing the possibility of engine corrosion, park brake sticking and so on.

I have an idea why it only works when you activate the wipers. The sensors work on changes in light reflection. So I'm guessing that since there's an infinite set of light and cleanliness conditions it's not possible to calibrate the device at the factory for a dry windscreen. The only way the system can be sure that the windscreen is dry (in the current lighting conditions) is just after you've activated the wipers. Thereafter, it's a safe bet that any abrupt change in light reflection is most likely due to rain...usually.

It is weird that it only affects starting. Could be spark plug fouling. This affects starting more than running from what I've read. Perhaps worth a check?

OK, my JOBD reader (Ancel JP700) only reads and clears fault codes. I must be getting confused with the OBD tool for my other car. I checked with Techstream and there's no fuel pressure PID as you can see in the screenshot. I checked the wiring diagrams and there's no fuel pressure sensor anyway, on the 2.4L at least, so that explains why there's no reading and may also explain why @Sixfeetofjdm may have low fuel pressure but not have any diagnostic codes. If you leave a good ten seconds between ignition on and cranking does the crank time improve (shorten)?

Possibly. You may have a non-legislated code which wouldn't necessarily put the check engine lamp on. It is only illuminated if the fault degrades emissions performance as required by law. Also it usually requires two consecutive trips to do so if memory serves.

Agree with @Rojie, could be a fuel pump priming problem when you turn on ignition. You should be able to check fuel rail pressure at ignition on with any JOBD tool although I'll double check that claim tomorrow on my van. I think purging only occurs after the engine is up and running so I doubt it is that.

Hmm. If it's random and intermittent, then disconnecting components temporarily is unlikely to find the cause. You could be right about the fuel pump. It seems the fuse is blowing when you turn on ignition which is when the fuel pump runs initially. I doubt it is blowing when you turn ignition off. It certainly isn't blowing while you are driving otherwise the engine would stop. BTW, the Ancel JP700 will read OBD codes as it does on mine. You might as well get it for future problems even if it hasn't stored any DTCs this time around.

Techstream does work on my 2003 model through K-Line although only engine, ABS and immobizer ECUs are capable of doing so. Even then I suffer intermittent comms problems. It's possible that it has stored some codes which may point to the problem but I doubt it because the DTCs are usually committed to EEPROM at ignition off. If the EFI fuse has blown, switching off ignition will cut all power to the microcontroller and prevent the code being stored.

Judging from the photo, it seems the trim attached to C pillar would block any further rearward movement. Not sure there's much you can do about that.

Not sure what you mean here.

Can you let us know when the fuse blows? Is it during cranking, after cranking, randomly, etc.? It may help pin down the cause.

Good luck and don't forgot to hold on to the shift lock button. I can tell you want to keep things original right down to your use of katakana for Abbie. Very kawaii!

Apologies. I got the wrong end of the stick.

The EFI fuse supplies all of the engine control components not just the fuel pump so you might have to check the current draw on the following suspects: Fuel Pump motor Evaporator solenoid Idle Speed Control Valve Oxygen Sensor heater The ECU and MAF are unlikely to be the cause. You could feasibly disconnect the oxygen sensor and evaporator and still run the engine. If the fuse doesn't blow then it could point to either of those being the culprit.

That's right. I'm not claiming it as my work.

I see. That video makes it look like he's pressing something in the ash try but that's not the case. In fact it's a bit more tricky than it makes out. I recommend this video instead which is much more realistic and you should get some trim tools as he points out. You'll damage something if you use screwdrivers. Don't be put off though, it's all straightforward if you take your time.

Thompson's uPVC Cleaner. https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/7116-headlights/?do=findComment&comment=21126

Which video are you referring to? I don't recall having to do that on my 2003 but it may have changed. Just make sure you keep hold of the shift lock button as you remove the fascia. I used some gaffer tape to tape it down.