Geralt

I happened to use Techstream v17 (same laptop, same MVCI cable) on a 2004 hybrid and it worked without an issue. This problem must be confined to my model year (2002) or my vehicle. Again, I'd appreciate if anybody who has got Techstream to work with a 2002 or 2003 model to confirm please.

Is there a reason you can't post their details publicly?

Perhaps give these guys a call? https://www.autodc.co.uk/home/ecu-test-and-repairs.html

I think you need a more methodical approach rather just changing parts. Use a multimeter to check the voltages are correct at the correct points when you try to crank. We have access to the wiring diagrams albeit with Japanese annotations.

@lucasmcspucas is right. The Japanese do YY-MM-DD. You should select the first option. However, the level of Techstream diagnostics on the Gen 1 pre-facelift is very limited. You can talk to ABS, Airbag and Engine ECU and that's about it. Fingers crossed that's all you need.

You mean it gave you the fault code but didn't expand on their meanings? If so, then the Ancel JP700 is unlikely to tell you more. You probably need Techstream instead:

I wonder if it's this guy you're after? https://www.linkedin.com/in/gerald-clifford-0b4b82129/?originalSubdomain=uk You could try to message him. These guys aren't far from Stafford: https://www.newdawnconversions.co.uk/contact-us

Are you looking for diagnostic tool or a person to look at the problem in the York area? If tech savvy, you can use Techstream with MVCI cable. Suspect that a wheel speed sensor has failed. Neither ABS nor VSC can work correctly without all four working.

The Ancel JP700 works on my non-hybrid 2003.

You're welcome. You may find your actual battery choice is somewhat limited because you probably have Japanese terminal sizes and, on my vehicle at least, there's a bracket that fits over the battery which accepts a limited width of battery. Maybe you already have a great auto supplier but if you use the Tayna website you can filter by Japanese terminals and battery dimensions. At least then you can get a suitable brand and model that you can find in Canada. When you land, click this button to reveal all the filters:

The owner's manual doesn't mention the spec. I think the answer is here: Let me know if you're still struggling.

Agreed. Coil(s) can't deliver required spark energy at higher loads. Fortunately they're fairly easy to replace. You need OBD tool to tell you which cylinder is misfiring or use trial and error and disconnect each coil one by one until the problem remains static. I had two stick coils go on my 1 series within a few miles of each other such is the manufacturing tolerances these days.

Mine is a simple GPS speedo so it just needs an ignition supply for a neat installation or cigarette lighter for instant use. There are some CAN connected speedometers which might provide more info on Gen 2s but I have no experience of them. Mine is like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394862136029?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kbshmbgbqmk&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=xtKKt1shTsu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It has a built in compass which I like. When you are happy with the HUD reflection position, you stick a small polarizing filter on the screen to make the display crisp. My HUD reflection is practically level with my eyes and to the side. I will post a photo later. The only criticism I have is that if the vehicle has not been used in a while (weeks), it takes a minute or so to obtain GPS reading but this doesn't happen very often.

I did and it doesn't apply to the vehicle in question. Like I said in my earlier answer, a speedo in mph is not required if the vehicle is 10 years or older. A rear fog light is required to pass the MOT. A speedo in mph is not.

The MOT just requires that it works. It's not concerned about the units.

Couldn't agree more. I too have HUD in MPH. Speedo/odo remains in KM. My MOT tester records it in KM. I believe an import does not have to have the speedo converted if over ten years old. You just need a means to see the speed in MPH, hence the HUD. It's a matter of opinion of course but I believe there will be an advantage to claiming that precisely nothing has been tinkered with in this respect when the time comes for selling it on.

I think a private garage would have a go. It's a leak so requires no specialist diagnostic equipment. I assume the oil is clean and no "mayonnaise" on the dipstick? If you want to have a go yourself, try using this leak detection dye: https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RLD2 You will need a black light torch. At least you will know where the leak is which is half the battle.

I think Mark's already sold on the idea of an awning. He want's a recommendation.

I have a 2003 2.4L non-hybrid. I did full tank to low fuel warning test 377.8 miles using 12.53 gallons which is 30.1 mpg. I would say 70% motorway but including some very steep hills in Shropshire and Mendips. Heavy camper conversion. I usually drive about 60mph on the motorway. E10 fuel. I'm well chuffed and frankly surprised.

Agreed. At 4:14 in the video, he says he has 25mA quiescent current but the meter says 250mA, ten times what he was expecting! Anyway, I measured the quiescent current on my 2003 2.4L non-hybrid and it was about 40mA.

...and I've just checked mine. The terminals are indeed T3 (Japanese) so the battery I was going to buy won't fit. Glad I checked now. As per your recommendation @Rojie , I used Tanya where you can filter by Japanese terminal and dimensions which narrowed the field down to just two. You can also search by JIS spec, in my case 46B24L, but there are no T3 terminal options which is odd. In the end went for the exact model I'm replacing: https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/japanese/s4020/ Looks like I'm not the only one:

Of course, but my point is that one shouldn't assume the leads are T1 especially if the car is fresh off the boat from Japan. They could be T3, so it's important to check.

I think they might not always be. Japanese imports may have slightly different sizes according to this article: https://www.mdsbattery.co.uk/blog/difference-between-t1-and-t3-car-battery-terminals.html I currently have a Bosch S4 020 battery so now wondering if the conversion changed the leads.

Think I found the complete answer in this excellent article: https://toyota-club.net/files/techdata/akb/index_eng.htm My model is UA-ANH10W (without bells and whistles) so the battery spec is 46B24L for non-cold climate. So that's means: Performance Rating: '46' Form Factor: 'B' Length (cm): '24' Location of the negative terminal: 'Left' From the table: CCA : 295A C20 : 42Ah If that battery is fitted length-ways across the vehicle, dimensions of B24 would be : 227mm (Terminal Height) / 203.5mm (Body Height) x 129.4mm (Deep) x 238.4mm (Wide).

Many thanks for the info!