Clutha

A bit more info. Van had a spell of idleness due to battery (engine) issues, basically knackered, new one sourced from NAPA, good company to deal with, when I baulked at price compared to ’online’ they knocked £20 off! Anyway engine noise, at first sounded like squeaky rattle more like loose sheet metal, then it changed to heavier knocking. When neighbours son came and checked he explained purpose of DMF and his proof of diagnosis was to change from neutral to drive with out letting the van move. The noise altered immediately & he was 100% convinced DMF was the issue & should ‘self cure’ with more use. Van had good run yesterday and I’m convinced noise had reduced considerably plus it’s getting 2 hour run tomorrow so 🤞 My reading this morning indicates Toyota have used DMF’s in various models but I haven’t found reference to Alphards - yet! Purpose of the part is to smooth out gear changes especially in automatics. I recall being told by an Audi owner 23 years ago that his small lightweight car (can’t recall model) had constant trouble from DMF, & car was so light that when idling the single large windscreen wiper would gently rock car!

By luck my neighbours car mechanic son was handy as I started to investigate a new (hopefully not death) rattle. ‘You’re not using the vehicle enough’ was his first comment as I let it idle to warm up, ‘the noise is from the dual mass flywheel’ ! An interesting explanation ensued & I admit I had used it less over last winter & spring. I’ve just read an excellent article from the RAC explaining what a DMF is for & how it does it. From now on the old girl will move more which is no hardship to me as it’s the smoothest handling vehicle I’ve had. If yours is a campervan conversion take note!😂

Hi Jules, There’s a small plastic header tank on my 2002 2.4 Alphard, that’s where I check my coolant level. So far I’ve never had level issues.

I’ve been thru all of the pain referred to, waving a white flag temporarily after pulling roof lining back (conversion) to trace route of supply piping. I’m contemplating re-running new pipe to bypass possible ‘nip’ point, pipe + connectors purchased.

Interesting, just removed my dud Bosch and labelling says S3 007, 640A (EN), 70 Ah 12v It is bigger than original in that it overhangs tray & top clamp had been elongated to fit! 🤔 As my Alphy is a campervan conversion (before I got it) & everything was working fine I’m tempted to stick with same spec/size battery.

The ‘jet’ is in the spoiler above the rear window, not easy to access. I’ve had no rear wash since I bought our Alphy, kinda gave up as I think stripping out campervan conversion panels to see if tube has been nipped is going to be a major chew. The washer gives an occasional dribble when operated so I think pump is ok. Good luck (If you want I could copy you parts diagram that gives you info)

Sorry if this has been posted b/4 but Direct Line just informed me they don’t do campervans. (PS neither do Co-op) Now 2hrs later I’m sorted! Admiral were admirable (see what I did there?) Cost £428 which reduced to £348 when I gave them the business of car & house insurance at their renewal dates. BTW AVIVA online quote was £627 for van.

Car dismantlers via eBay. Dealer price for my Suzuki Vitara rear lamp cover £125, eBay £45.

Rojie posted this a while ago, worth a try. From memory you just lower each window, using the switch in the door for that window (not the drivers door switches). Down and up, possibly a couple of times each.

I had issues re door locks & window operation with my ‘02 2.4, someone on here advised hold down either wind switch or door lock switch on front passenger door as a reset, it worked! I’ll search my post & see if I can find info.

My roof is peeling & it ain’t sunburn! Mystery bits of coiled up ‘plastic’ appeared on drive, almost clear, biggest 8” long many smaller. I’m sweeping them up along with other crap, happen to look up at van roof and there was the source, a few areas of the pop up peeling maybe about 10-20% . Looks like the paint finish, (silver metallic) maybe got a coat of clear lacquer and it’s reached the end of its life. Conversion was done by Direct Campers at Kilmarnock (now long gone) , I think Newcastle branch might be still in business. Anyone experienced this? I’m going to get paint shop advice on removing rest & quote for replacement.

Damp meters aren’t too expensive, when we had issues with a motorhome body leak it indicated the area where the source was.

My recent issues with leisure battery led to the electrician who fitted control unit to emphasise have the fridge OFF excepted when on hookup power supply. His experience declared fridge on leisure battery only can drain it too quickly.

BTW I'm talking engine batt, no other batt powered devices! Not long after we got our ‘02 2.4 van I got a no start situation, all dead no lights etc. Under bonnet check revealed very slightly loose positive terminal connection, (eyelet on cable to battery post clamp slightly loose. Nipped up & all was well. Recently van is used as 2nd vehicle and problem arose again & more often + both terminals this time. Spring washers sourced & during fitting noticed battery moving slightly on tray. Close inspection revealed with a bit of effort it would move rotationally quite a bit, home made extension noted on clamp bracket leading to discovery that battery was far bigger than mounting tray! It’s a 70A/hr unit and I haven’t referred to standard spec yet. Main issue was to get it solidly held in place. 7mm wide cable ties fitted at one end but shape of tray support stymied opposite end, but it’s SOLID now.

Just turned over 90,000 in my 02 A10 2.4 Your post is very encouraging 😎