Gareth Marchant

I’ve tried to search for it but can’t find any instructions on how to remove the step insert from the n/s rear passenger side. Is it a push or screw fit? I’m not the most adept at taking things apart and I don’t want to break anything in the process, so any advice in easy removal would be gratefully received.

Thanks for that, Steve. Interestingly yours also only shows that last two inspections, with the other other odometer readings being at auctions.

Hi Steve. Looks like mine has only been auctioned once, and the auction report (according to Translate) says only 1 owner. Does yours have mileage reports going right back to first inspection (3 years after registration)?

I’ve just taken the plunge on a 2007 MZG, I’m quite happy that the mileage is genuine and I am buying from a source with a vey good reputation. I got a CarVX report and everything stacks up, but it only gives detailed history data, aside from registration and manufacture dates, going back to 2018. Is it usual not to have anything earlier than this?

Thanks for your response, Rojie. Small world! A couple of clarifications - I am careful not to use the term “bad habits”; there are often just different approaches to achieving similar outcomes. I also gave my own view, I did not and do not claim it to be that of the DVSA. The rationale I used relates to the potential response of the the driver when rear ended. - if they get a significant fright, they might involuntarily lift off the brake, but it is all just thinking about risk minimisation. As with so many things, there might not be this consequence and it becomes hypothesis. If I am misguided in my thinking, I am always open to finding out. Your comments around four wheels braked versus two make absolute sense as long as the footbrake continues to be applied. Are you still an Examiner?

As a Driving Instructor, and soon to be Alphard owner, I thought I'd add my twopenneth worth to the 'use of handbrake' debate (although I concede I mostly teach in a manual). Two thoughts occur to me: 1. The foot operated 'handbrake' should hold the car still when applied, regardless of the gear selection and the gradient. If it isn't, there is either a fault with the braking system or an adjustment required. 2. Best practice is to apply the handbrake when stationary and waiting before moving away again (as opposed to a short pause before moving off). This provides additional security against the risks of being pushed forward in a rear end shunt (particularly if it makes you 'jump') and prevents blinding following drivers at night if holding on the footbrake in traffic. Going into neutral is again best practice if waiting for an extended period (such as at traffic lights). I stress my deliberate use of "best practice" here; for newly qualified drivers becoming experienced drivers, one of the first skills to be ditched in both manuals and automatics is the effective use of the handbrake. Particularly with an automatic, as you don't have to use the handbrake as the vehicle will hold on the footbrake, automatically engages the drive and there is no clutch to control, people naturally take the path of least resistance and eventually only use it when they park. When I am doing driver assessments for qualified drivers, I can spot the auto drivers straight away - footbrake on permanently when stopped, no handbrake, unless parked up.

Thanks, Charlie. All adds to my knowledge bank. 😊

Hi Charlie. May I ask if your van is a side conversion or a rear conversion, and does your figure include carrying any bikes?

That might be the case, but with pop top, lpg fuel and habitation conversion, awning, camping gear, etc I wonder where it takes it to? If you look at the comments earlier in the thread, a figure of 2450 kg is quoted for a camper, and another owner I know of weighed in at 2440 kg fully laden, which is right up there with the highest quoted GVW for the hybrid. It is one of the reasons why I didn’t go with a conversion company much closer to me geographically as it offered solid wood worktops, induction hobs, etc all on a hybrid chassis. I just saw excess weight for the sake of posh fittings.

For me, that is part of the problem. My understanding is the official Japanese GVW for vehicle is based on the kerb weight plus 7/8 occupants, using an average figure for a Japanese person giving the c.440Kg figure. What that isn’t is a number which tells you the maximum load the unladen vehicle can safely carry. That is the design provision weight I have tried to find without success, and it is interesting that an engineer did advise uprating the springs on the camper conversion mentioned in this thread. A 7 seater will have a lower quoted GVW than an 8 seater, but the vehicle is exactly the same. This is why I wondered if you could take the heaviest quoted Alphard GVW (8 seat Hybrid @ 2450kg) and use that as the max you go to?

Thanks very much for that info, pcous. I’ve been surprised how little information or consideration there seems to be out there for the effects on max vehicle weight of a camper conversion plus all the people and things you pack in it, and you have given me a path to follow to put something in place to address the concerns I have. Cheers.

Wow! 3300kg! That’s some set of springs. How did you source the engineer who did the calculations and spring specification, and were the springs specially made or freely available? I’m tempted to look into doing the same a you when, or after, I get my Alphard to have the peace of mind to be able to carry kit without worrying about it. I realise the chances of being pulled by DVSA for being over GVW is very slight if you are in a PLG vehicle, but I’m more conscious of the risks of inadvertently taking the van above safety tolerances on trips away. (I’d also quite like to know packing the wife is at least an option after I have clothes and the awning on board )

Do you mind me asking what the increased GVW figure was that the engineer specified? I am about to commit to an MZG conversion and I might end up doing the same as you. I'm also pleased I found someone who has been through the same concerns, as it doesn't seem to be something the conversion companies say much about. Cheers.

Hi pcous Thanks for your response. That's interesting; the 2WD 2007, 7 seater MS is listed in the brochure as kerb weight 1860kg, GVW 2245kg so it gained 10kg! I am about to have an Alphard converted, and I have the same concerns about post conversion weight. How close do you get to the quoted GVW in practice? What helped you overcome your concerns about the weight before/when you got your van?

Are there any manufacturers of R&R beds for Alphards or conversion companies that provide an M1 Crash Test Certificate? I can't recall any of the converters making mention of it on websites, and it seems a fairly important aspect if you are going to carry passengers. I think I heard somewhere that it needs to be crash tested in an Alphard which probably presents an issue, but I'm not sure if this is correct.