pipsyp

Most welcome Brian! Yep entirely as Kev1839 says and confirms, no need to flush, Comma make good products and that's an ideal oil for the Alphard 👍

It'll be fine Brian, so long as that's what it's filled with already. The important thing really is not to mix the two (semi and fully), in very small amounts not a problem but anything larger than a top up between oil changes it could be problematic. The reality is that fully synthetic oil is more modern and will always outperform a semi synthetic (for one as it degrades less quickly). I don't know for sure but whilst it's possible semi synthetic may have been the recommendation when these cars were new, I'm pretty confident any garage you took it to nowadays would put (or recommend to put) fully synthetic oil in it, I'd expect including most Toyota dealers (those that would service an Alphard). Hope that makes sense?

Hi folks, I'm keen at some point to buy a JOBD cable and a copy of Techstream. Does anyone have any trusted sources they would recommend (as appreciate its probably a bit of a minefield on eBay, dodgy cables, malware infested software etc). I have a laptop I can run it on as a VM, so no issues there. Appreciate any steer from anyone whose done the same. Paul

I ended up getting a genuine Toyota one through a main dealers (care of my mate that looks after it). Really not cheap (think it was nearly 400 quid ex VAT part alone) but arguably the best foot forward. It is interesting, despite most Toyota dealers not being keen to work on the things, getting parts really is not an issue (just they tend to cost a ton!)

I plan to get mine done next service, as no idea when it was last done. Anyone that says auto gearboxes are sealed for life are jokers lol. I think the general consensus is to get as much oil out as possible (removing the sump etc, replacing the filter) then pump in new to the correct level. My mate looks after mine though and pretty sure he has an airline driven pump for replacing gearbox oil. I know on some Mercs it's important to also ensure the torque converter is drained as that holds a load (and is often forgotten about) but my knowledge on the Toyota boxes is pretty limited!

Sorry Brian, holy thread revival but realised I didn't respond! Opie Oils is a good one, as if you put the reg/vehicle details in, it will come up with a list of oils they sell that they seem compatible. TBH, anything 5w30 grade that's fully synth will likely do, particularly if you plan to change the oil every year/few thousand miles. From what I read C2 tends to provide better fuel economy than C3, but C3 is designed with emissions systems (DPFs etc) in mind. I don't think either will make much difference......believe main dealer Toyota oil is now C3 for what it's worth.

2008 AH10 Alphard V 2.4 AS converted camper (rear kitchen, poptop) Last tank 15.5mpg In fairness all urban/extra urban. Does nearly twice that on a long run (best I've seen is just over 30 I think). I did start off on E10 which was fine, but definitely find it drives a bit better (perkier, torquier) on E5 so that's all I use now. Last fill £102.

Toyota direct on eBay had one (and was the last one), but it was getting on for £160 🤢

Sorry all, one other really useful point of note is this Amazon product, as long as you are a prime member is that amount all in, including Royal Mail tracked 24 shipping. So whilst Amazon suggest you'll get it in a couple of days, as the order is actually shipped by the reseller and not Amazon, likelihood is it'll turn up next business day (did for me).

In no way affiliated but this is what I bought it it's of any interest to anyone. Again the fit is nowhere near exact but it's very usable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LYUUJUG/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

So.....had the misfortune of breaking the passenger mirror glass on the Alphard. Thankfully the mirror housing and folding mechanism itself is fine, just the glass dropped off the plate and wasn't salvageable! Anyway, trying to drive a vehicle the scale of the Alphard without a passenger mirror is no fun so I quickly looked into sorting it. As bad luck would have it (unless I was being daft) whilst there seems to be a proliferation of AH20 glass on the likes of eBay, but not AH10 which was frustrating. I did pop down to Halfords and they didn't have anything either, though their booklet seemed to suggest a part that could be ordered in. That glass it transpires is actually for a later model (2000 to 2006) Previa/Estima, and not for the Alphard specifically. I tried one of these cut to size temp mirrors from Amazon, absolute garbage and regret even trying. Definitely don't use one of those. Off the back of the Previa/Estima thing, I ended up taking a chance on some Previa glass from Amazon, which turned up next day and wasn't a great deal more expensive than the temp solution . Needless to say it's not a perfect fit, but it's the right shape to go into the backplate without any 'oversize' issues and can be mounted so that the loss of mirror area is minimal. So, if you are ever in need of mirror glass, need something temporarily/are happy to live with something that's not perfectly shaped I can confirm the 2000-2006 Previa/Estima glass is usable and a good solution - assuming you still have the mirror backplate (i.e. have only lost the glass!). I've ordered a new genuine replacement from Amayama, at rather extortionate cost, and I guess it will arrive eventually, but there is a temporary/permanent solution there if needed if anyone finds themselves in the same boat. I also learnt something very useful in the process.....transpires my MOT had lapsed somehow over the bank holiday weekend (no reminders unfortunately) so it also needed MOTing, which I thought ironically was just great given the mirror problem. However, transpires (and this is quite a recent change) that as long as the vehicle was first used/registered (whatever) before January 2010, you can pass an MOT without even an advisory with just the drivers and interior rear view mirror, the passenger mirror is still not required (believe it used to be anything after 1976 was covered but not anymore). Therefore, the passenger mirror for us lucky AH10 owners is just for vanity, just make sure you don't break your driver's mirror around MOT time!

One by the mirror is for the toll card system (ETC) they have in Japan. I had this and a couple antennas on my front and rear screens, when I had the windscreen replaced the fitters removed and tucked back under the headlining. Technically not required but as they would have been most likely factory fitted, a big job to remove the wires!

Excellent vehicles the Alphard/Vellfires of that generation. Even the earlier AH10's are v nice and still feel relatively modern even at 20 years old. Something to be mindful of is that these vehicles are available in a myriad of configurations seating wise, so you need to be sure what you end up buying will suit. From memory I think they come in 7 seater (so 2 dedicated captains chairs 2nd row, 3 seater bench 3rd row), or 8 seater (2 x 3 seater benches both rows), though again the 3rd row is that bit less opulent/comfortable than the 2nd, certainly where the middle seat is concerned. Not sure if it's the same on the AH20's (the 2nd gen one you've expressed interest in) but the AH10's with the 3 person 2nd row, the centre belt is a lap belt, not a 3 pointer. Space wise it's absolutely fine but the middle seat is somewhat on a hump and has a centre armrest, so it's arguably not as comfortable as the left and right hand seats. Also the lack of a headrest can be a bit of a pain. I'd avoid similar gen Merc vans, they aren't the most reliable and believe they are prone to rust. Envisage an Alphard/Vellfires will end up being alot stronger mechanically and bodywork wise. The newer V class/Vitos are nice but obviously their cost isn't 🙂

I thought I posted on this one, but I don't think I did! My late facelift AH10 has quite an interesting set up. It has a 3rd party rocker switch (but not a terrible one) with telltale installed into one of the existing factory switch blanks down by the mirror controls etc. What is quite nice about it is that rather than using a separate lamp/lamps on the reflector units, it illuminates the existing factory rear sidelights much brighter. It can only be activated if the lights are on also, so behaves very much as a factory solution would. I can't tell (haven't looked in anger) if this is done via dual fillament bulbs, or just increases the power to them but all the same it's a very tidy solution. Stuart Spencer autos imported and did the initial prep work on the vehicle so they are always worth contacting for anyone who has an issue and lives in their area.

I know with the AH10 Alphards anything X is a V6, S a 2.4 MX is a 3.0 without the aero pack AX is a 3.0 with the aero pack MS and AS the same thing Don't know if the Veilfire follows that convention to some degree? Surefire way to find out the exact model is to run a CarVX report.

I need to do this on my AH10 facelift at some point. Annoying for the sake of a stalk and a flip on the wiring on the facelifts that Toyota didn't just put it on these as standard.....cost cutting at the extreme 😂

Any auto locksmith worth their salt really should be able to source a key and (at very least) code it to the immobilizer. If you want genuine keys, you could try getting one from a local Toyota dealer, or from abroad like Anamaya or PartSouq (they aren't actually that ridiculously expensive) with a view to getting it cut and coded by someone. For what it's worth, syncing the key RF remote to the vehicle is a DIY job, it's just the transponder coding that's a bit more involved. Again with the knowhow, you can buy a copy of Toyota Techstream (the dealer level software) and cable from eBay pretty cheap and do it yourself, but a level of knowledge is involved (and I guess it could prove a touch risky if done incorrectly).

If we're talking tow vehicle and AH20, whilst absolutely nought wrong with a 2.4, CVT won't be a great idea for towing I wouldn't have thought. 3.5 also will have more guts and probably the right way to go, probably overkill really but given they are the only two engine choices. As others have mentioned however, no idea on the towing capabilities of these things.

I can tell you from the pops and bangs that came out of the exhaust none of it was good for ones health, but totally get your point 😄 I'm betting ULEZ will become EU5 or 6 mandatory before too long anyway (I can't see TfL stopping the pressure on older vehicles) so that will definitely rule out all but the newest Alphards. Shame but no doubt the way it's going.

In all honesty as long as it's a 10 series facelift (came along in 2005), these are all petrol and she to the age tend to be considered Euro 4 compliant. Technically anything of that era, 2.4, 3.0 or Hybrid should be ULEZ compliant, but it's not always a given. Best way to know is find a vehicle you are interested in, get it's registration and put it through the TfL ULEZ checker. If it doesn't say ULEZ needs to be paid you'll be fine. Whole thing rather makes me laugh as I had a 2006 Mini Cooper S as a bit of fun for a while, and that was ULEZ compliant, despite being horrifyingly bad on fuel on urban run (25mpg and probably being generous) and having a CO2 output well into the 200's of g/km 😆

Both would do the job I think, though not sure either does Android Auto/Carplay (suspect that's not essential?). Personal preference, Id probably choose the Pioneer.....only from experience in having both Kenwood and Pioneer headunits in recent years and the Pioneers (to my ears) tend to sound better. The wiring on these things is crackers though, unless you're very competent with this sort of stuff I'd leave it to a professional installer to sort (be worth the money). With the right wiring harnessses you should have no issues keeping the steering wheel controls and reversing camera 👍

If you have a pop top (like a Drivelodge) might be water in the front spoiler section. The sealant on mine has gone in a couple of places and does fill up in heavy rain, does exactly as you describe. Bought some Sikaflex sealant to sort it (a job for the summer 👍) I use a trim tool to lift a section where the sealant has split on the front to let the water out periodically, surprising how much gets in there! If not, could well be blocked sunroof drains.

Another option.......shape up some Miliput putty, paint it and either glue/silicone it in place. Would probably work quite well (is great stuff). I used it to repair the lower door sills on an old A3 I had......they were prone to having the ends snapped off when people opened the doors out onto things carelessly (pavements mainly!) but I found this stuff could easily be fashioned into the right shape and would attach itself on ok and provide a solid fix and once painted you could hardly tell they were ever broken.

This is very true. That said as long as it is 5w 30 fully synth and the Alphard already has that installled, for the sake of a top up it's incredibly unlikely to cause any harm. TBF in the case of an AH10, most if not all oils you'll pick from the shelf will exceed the specs required....newer Alphards/Vellfires definitely something to bear in mind 👍