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big_boz

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Posts posted by big_boz

  1. IVA isn't Vat, IVA is individual vehical approval which is required for import vehicles under 10 years old, over 10 years old only MOT is required.

     

    IVA is mush more stringent and intensive than MOT.

     

    My point being the very newest of s20s are pretty much all 10 years old, s30 started in 2015

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  2. 35 minutes ago, sumogogg said:

    Many thanks for the info and advice and for the insurance tip too will defintely check that out! I'm really torn between a 10 series or 20 series Alphard, but edging towards a 20 series and purely on the looks alone I think the Vellfire looks the best. 

    Velfire absolutely looks best, series 20 more so than the later series 30.

     

    Depending on budget you can get a 2014 velfire now without IVA required that's a very late s20. 

  3. 18 minutes ago, The Boonies said:

    On a Motorway run and not exceeding 70 MPH I get 33-34mpg from my 20 series 2.4 Alphard and about 26-27 around town so I would doubt the conversion would be good value at the sort of mileage your LPG man mentioned.

    That's pretty much what I get on petrol so to your point it doesn't stack up financially like it used to.

     

    That said last LPG car I had it was 58p per litre seems closer 90p now, so near 50% more expensive, petrol hasn't gone up by the same factor.

  4. 7 minutes ago, ALSALPHARD said:

    Hi potential problem will be getting hold of LPG as a few big names are no longer going to sell it.

    Plenty of it where I live have 3 stations less than a mile, not something I am concerned about. 

     

    The fear mongering with lpg is somewhat out of date, LPG is absolutely part of the governments direction of travel to net zero, hgv fleet use LPG as EV is not a viable long term solution, the duty escalator has been removed for LPG as a result.

     

    Given how popular lpg is on the continent, I wouldn't be at all surprised if in the near future it becomes a government endorsed fuel, with tax benefits and purchase incentives. It's an easy win for the government in terms of emissions reduction.

  5. Just had a chat with a local lpg company. 

     

    Chap suggests a 71l tank fits under the back where the wheel goes with a c55l useable volume.

     

    He mentioned 200m local range and 250m on a run (apparently he has a 2.4 Alphard s20 as his daily) and that's his figures 

     

    That range seems low, implies about 21mpg on gas, anyone got any real world experience of what these will do on lpg, I'm working out payback miles on the conversion cost of £1150 and with current fuel prices it seeing it as about 14k miles .....which seem a alot. When I have converted cars in the past it's always been 8-10k miles.

  6. 1. yes if they are not the captains seats but they aren't comfy to sleep on like a bed.

    2. No the nc500 will not require 4wd

    3. Dont buy a vellfire or Alphard if you have any concerns about fuel economy, they are thirsty.

    4. Impossible to say based on the limited info....did you buy one yet?

    5. Not had any issues so far with mechanical parts but I suspect anything vehical specific will be troublesome.....but then that's true of all vehicles at the moment 

  7. On 3/20/2024 at 2:38 PM, dave1221 said:

    Old thread I know, but someone may find the information as useful.

     

    They aren't OEM Toyota but I have just fitted a set of Bola FLY alloys. They're  18x9" ET38 and in my option fill the arches nicely and I have no rubbing going on even with the vehicle lowered on coilovers. The alloys are also very lightweight at approximately 8.5KG each (lighter than my Enkeis!).

     

     

    large.PXL_20240312_1759427364.jpg.cf2756cb054c48cfded199a2d074b557.jpg

    What's the offset on those 40? Look really good. I was thinking of fitting some spacers to push my OEM 18s out a bit, they look a bit tucked as standard 

  8. Ours is a remapped (to 192bhp) 2.4 cvt. 

     

    Not sure how it would tow, the box (like any cvt) will try and give you Max torque from the gear ratio. So best way to drive them is lower throttle inputs and ride the torque wave. Mashing the throttle does now but make lots of noise. The manual over ride is pointless, it doesn't lock the gear ratios really, that said it might make a decent job of limiting the final drive if you are towing.

     

    It might tow ok, but I would be looking for a v6 with the fixed ratio 6sp box if I was you. 

  9. On 7/3/2023 at 8:45 PM, kristoff said:

    Hence im testing grounds on spares from ali express,I decided to some fresh struts and to my surprise 😮 they work twice as fast and you can get them in choice of colours. If any i terested for about £35 for the pair yet i will keep the original ones just in case 

    Link?

  10. Answered my own questions, fronts have a big cap, removed that and the main beam bulbs at the top of the lights then fired a hair dryer in the big hole, few mins each side and all dry. I shall leave the caps off for now.

     

    Rears, couldn't find anything on line at all, so tapped a couple of 5mm holes in the bottom lights (brake and running lights) and heated from the outside, all clear now. I have some grommets I could put in the holes, but for now il leave them open to breath.

    • Like 1
  11. Decided to tackle the annoying misty lights on the vellfire.

     

    Starting with the rear side units, the top of the unit is easy to sort, remove the indicator bulb then blow warm air in, the bottom half though appears to be a sealed led unit, I can't see a vent/drain and no way to open it up. I have been warming the outside which is working (slowly) to evaporate the moisture inside but this seems like it's going to come back unless there is somewhere for it to go....anyone sorted out similar?

     

    For the fronts, I'm assuming I can pull a cover off the back and let them air out?Mercs suffer the same issue and removal of the cover for a few days and some warm air usually sorts them....same here?

  12. Decided to tackle the annoying misty lights on the vellfire.

     

    Starting with the rear side units, the top of the unit is easy to sort, remove the indicator bulb then blow warm air in, the bottom half though appears to be a sealed led unit, I can't see a vent/drain and no way to open it up. I have been warming the outside which is working (slowly) to evaporate the moisture inside but this seems like it's going to come back unless there is somewhere for it to go....anyone sorted out similar?

     

    For the fronts, I'm assuming I can pull a cover off the back and let them air out?Mercs suffer the same issue and removal of the cover for a few days and some warm air usually sorts them....same here?

  13. 4 hours ago, pipsyp said:

    You might do already chap, but if not definitely give 99ron a go.  Found my 2.4 drives quite a bit better on it, top end performance when revved is definitely improved too.  Probably all the better on yours now!! 👍

    Only ever run it on super, gives me a reason to go to Costco to fill up...on fuel and pizza 😂

    • Haha 1
  14. So the local firm to me (in Leeds) is called matrix remaps. They use software from a bigger outfit called elite remaps (also in Leeds) appears to be a franchise based set up if I were guessing. 

     

    Not used before but all my usual go to's couldn't source the map.

     

    Very professional service, guy had all the gear including the battery stabilizer (seen COVID fly by night mappers bricking ECUs not doing this). Had to come and scan the car to get the ECU info, found the correct map then came back the following day to upload.

     

    Drove it around quite a bit yesterday and I would certainly say it drives better, gearbox is definitely not hunting up the range quite so much on hills and it feels more relaxed. Can't immediately get a read on fuel consumption but it looks about the same at c.6 miles per litre (c.29 mpg) on the dash local running about. Be interesting to see what it does on a fully loaded run, it would be nearer 7 miles per litre (call it 32mpg) pre map, if it goes over 7 il be a happy bunny.

    • Like 1
  15. Just now, Chris.ac said:

    The two looms have different connectors based on the original headunit.

    2008-2010 had minidisc players and external TV decoder boxes. 2010 onwards removed the minidisc and used the space to integrate the TV decoder.

    This is why the connectors changed.

     

    Do you still have the original Toyota unit? Check the connectors on the back.

     

    The next thing is, how many speakers do you have?

    If you judge the 8 speaker setup, you don't need the 'optical' most decoder box.

     

    Mini disc! Now there is a blast from the past, I actually still have all my mini disc set up in the loft lol.

     

    I don't have the original head unit no, but I'm pretty sure I have 8 speaker set up.

     

    Il have a browse on Ali and see what I can find unless you know of the correct loom. Pm sent buddy 

  16. 50 minutes ago, Chris.ac said:

    No link in your message.

    There are two looms that have different connectors for the standard power, antennas, rear screen etc.

    And then there are 2 versions of those 2 looms that include a MOST Audio/video converter and park assist camera converter.

    Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! 

    £5.63 40%OFF | 16PIN Android Radio Power Cord Wiring Harness For Toyota Alphard Vellfire AH20 2008-2015 Car stereo Fiber Box Adapter Canbus

    https://a.aliexpress.com/_EjzgUyN

     

    Dunno what happened there!

     

     

  17. On 1/18/2024 at 4:51 PM, Chris.ac said:

    Private message me an email address, I'll give you a link to the pdf for wiring .

     

    You can buy wiring kits for around £100 on AliExpress for that unit, that will enable you to retain the factory cameras/reversing sensors/heater controls/amplifier and add obd/canbus data too.

     

    It's not insurmountable.

    Something like option 2 here? 

     

    Looks like it deals with the cameras and possible the roof monitor?

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