NorthBoy

Nigel and Gamith, I appreciate your advice. I took a look at the rails when I got home from work this evening. I managed to get the hooks lowered again. Not entirely sure what I did but moving them back and forward seemed to 'release' something and they are both low again! I even managed to remove one of the end stops (fresh eyes and Nigel's words). There is a problem with the bolt on the other rail it keeps spinning without unscrewing - I am guess it is crossed threaded or something. I'll need to work out how to get that undone. Having seen how this works now, I am going to see if the brackets can be slid off the front end of the rails (by the drivers door well - if there is enough space. All the seats will need to come out, but if possible it means I don't need to get under the vehicle. I can then remove the brackets and re-instate the brackets for the middle seats and refit the seats! Nigel - when you unbolted the rails from underneath, did you have the vehicle up on a ramp, or raised on your drive way with a jack and stays?

Rojie, Do you have the name of a garage in Coventry? Many thanks, Simon

HI, I hope everyone is having a great weekend. I've been busy removing the rear two seats and the running rails that attach on the LHS and RHS side of the vehicle. I sued this Forum and the TC's Anything Goes videos on You Tube for assistance. I am now however stuck, and it is driving me nuts. 1. Firstly, as is shown in Picture 2, the metal clips in the bracket are all raised - how can I lower them? Not sure how they ended up like this, but I can't find away to release them so that lie flat within the bracket housing - Is it possible? 2. Ideally, I want to remove the two brackets that move along the runners on the floor tbh. This will create a completely flat surface for what I want to do next. However unlike series 10, I can't see blots that would allow me to unbolt the runners and slide off the brackets. I've read the other advice for Series 10 and was hoping to following that method, but my runners appear bolted to the underside of the vehicle. with no access from within the vehicle itself Also the bolt (picture 4) on the end of the runner also seems like it is fixed with tag-weld. Is it possible to remove the ends and runners, or do I need to have them unbolted from the underneath of the vehicle? If that is the case, can that be done DIY, or is it a trip to a garage. If so anyone know of a garage/fitter who can do this. I am based in the midlands. Any help on this will be hugely appreciated. Simon

Phillix, Did you track down the part number?

@big_boz you have given me the confidence to finally give it a go - cheers. I will report back

I had a similar problem. Took it back to where I bought it. They replaced the actuator (I think that is what is called), that moves plastic flaps that route hot and cold air to windscreen, feet, etc. The unit is up the side of the centre console, but not easy to get to There are a few you tube videos and other posts about this problem as I remember

Big Boz, I have this job to do, but haven’t had the time yet. I have the the same ‘sticky dash fit’ product from Oz, but have been a little apprehensive in using it yet. Your post does however fill me with hope. A couple of questions if I may: - — how did you use the cleaning spray and how did it leave the surface? I’ve previously tried to clean off the sticky stuff before I knew what I was doing with normal cleaner, and don’t want to create more mess. - when you applied the finishing coat did you paint down front of the console plastic - the area that connects with the clove box - I have fine single line cracks in some areas does the Sugru work for those, or just big holes. Any advise will be gratefully received.

Craig, I had the same problem. It is not a difficult job, although a little fiddly. I got the part from Jap Euro car parts. I can’t remember the part number but it looks like the attached. For fitting I found you tube Rav 5 videos good to show you what to do. The design and layout is the same. Basically - remove from RHS wheel, remove the plastic covering that separates this area from the engine area, and you’ll see the washer fluid tank with the two pumps - one for front, one for rear at the bottom. They are held in with washer so can be pulled off. To check it is the pump and not the fuse. Swap the rear (working) pump and plug it into the front socket. If it works the pump is the problem. If it doesn’t, then you’ll need to look at the electrics. Hope that helps

Hi everyone. I want to refurbish my steering (2010 Vellfire) as the gloss finish on the ‘wood’ areas has started to delaminate. Before I start this project I wanted to know if anyone else has done this, by removing the steering wheel and rubbing the gloss down. I’ve seen a few video on utube and it doesn’t look too difficult. First question I have though, is the ‘wood’ actually wood or a hard plastic? Cheers in advance for any pointers.

Thanks for this. Nice looking console, no wood effects Toyota plastic like mine!

I’ve order the QC3 unit. I’ll confirm how I get in. Many thanks for the advise and links, very helpful.

Hi all, I'm new to my Vellfire 2010 and wiring electric sockets. I am looking for a twin USB socket to install next to the 12v cigarette socket in the central unit below the gear stick. I have seen an old YouTube video from Malaysia with the exact unit with a patch cable to take power from the 12v cigarette socket. However, I can't for the life of me find where this, or something similar can be found. Any kind soul who has done this job, wants to point me in the right direction? All the best for a great weekend.

Yup, I failed to find a reference to the area

Hi, can anyone recommend a garage in the Northamptonship area that is capable and reliable for general work (service) and repairs on series 20 vellfire/alphard. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I will how, likely go down this path and adopt the same solution. The temporary magnetic sleeve hasn’t really worked.