Themadscotsman

I emailed the dealer for verification this afternoon and very quickly received the following. That has cleared everything up. It also explains why I thought I was using more fuel than I was based on the trip meter and me thinking it was reading in KMs.

This is my speedometer with the K obscured.

The dial was changed, upon viewing the car had a kmh dial which the dealer changed to an mph dial as they said they do as part of the predelivery service. The Carvx report stated the mileage before shipping as slightly higher than actual and I assumed they had rounded up by around 100km. The centre of the dial has the k blacked out.

I’ve had my 2006 Alphard about six weeks now so still learning things about it. On my way work last week I noticed the odometer was at something like 68100when leaving home and when I arrived at work 18 miles later the odometer showed 68118 which means it is counting miles not km. The car had a bit over 42k miles or 67k ish Km showing on the odometer when I bought it, the dials were changed to Mph and I assumed the odometer would keep counting the KMs but it seems not. I don’t necessarily need to clock the car down to the correct mileage but have the odometer counting in KMs. If I were to sell the car down the line I need to be able to say it has done x amount of Kms as oppose to whatever the odometer shows as miles. Has anyone else experienced this?

The cable came with V17 & V18 on the CD, I tried 18 first but seeing as 17 is working for me I’ll continue using it.

The cable came with V17 & V18 on the CD, I tried 18 first but seeing as 17 is working for me I’ll continue using it.

I was running V18 of Techstream and decided to uninstall and install V17 which also came on the CD with the vci cable. I set up the driver and connection parameters in Techstream before plugging in and connecting to the car. This time when I double clicked on immobiliser from body electrical menu, Utility appeared on the left of the screen, from there I successfully programmed the transponder key I bought a few weeks ago on Aliexpress, now all I need to do Is cut the blade which the shop a mile from my house can do for £5 Job done, took less than 10 minutes all in including powering up the laptop. Now I have 3 keys that will start the car including the original Toyota one.

Thanks for your advice guys, Pete. I programmed the key to unlock the doors with the door open/close procedure and tried programming the transponder with the accelerator/brake procedure with no success hence trying Techstream to see if the max amount of keys had been programmed and removing one to enable programming a new one. Richard, I kinda thought the options were for earlier or later models so tried the last one first and then the others when that had no success. You may be right in that it isn’t fully communicating with the car properly with all options being yellow, I will investigate further.

Hi all, I’m trying to program a transponder in the blank key I bought recently. It is a 4d67 according to the seller which I understand is correct for my Mk1 facelifted 2006 3.0l model. I have two working keys with transponders that came with the car, I’m trying to program a 3rd one. I’ve managed to program the 3rd key to open the doors and had it cut to turn in the barrel. When I open up techstream (v18) I am presented with 3 options, see pic. I’ve tried all 3 options, the last one asks for more info about the car, radar cruise, side airbags yes or no All options tried, neither show the utility option in the left side menu when connected to the car, which is what I believe is how one gets into the transponder program menu. If I look at the body electrical tab on the main window and choose immobiliser I only get an entry for an unmatched key code, see pic. Can anyone who has programmed a transponder with Techstream shed any light on this? I’m connecting using a miniVCI cable using Windows 10 on an old standalone laptop that has no internet connection.

Not to worry, It isn’t necessary for me to be able to use the buttons as the keys do a perfect job of unlocking, I was just curios to know. The main door lock switch on the drivers door can be programmed to lock/unlock in certain scenarios, ie above 15mph to lock all doors and unlock when in park mode. Other functions may be in the owners handbook that I haven’t got round to reading fully yet. Thanks for your advice nonetheless.

The small black buttons have a little bit of give on them hence my thinking I should press them when grabbing the door handle or unlocking the tailgate before using the latch to open it. Can you explain what you mean by drivers door lock switch enabled?

So during the week I got around to fitting the cigarette socket. I bought a cigarette socket extension and cut the plug off, wired into the unused heated seats fuse with a 15a fuse tap then ran the cable under the carpet after removing the plastic kick guards from both left hand side doors. I then used strong double sided tape to secure it next to the cubby hole at the left rear hidden under the rear seat. Works a treat, I may look into a more permanent fitting later on if I want to try routing the cable over the inside of the wheelarch. I also connected the USB thingy taking a fused feed from the factory cigarette socket and running the cable under the carpet, sticking the module to the front of the centre console at floor level. This meant no drilling of holes anywhere to feel cables through. Pics to follow if anyone is interested.

Hi All, I have a 2006 Gen 1 facelifted Alphard. I have a couple of keys, a Toyota 4 button one and a lookalike generic 4 button one, (see pic). On my drivers door handle and the tailgate there is a small black button which I think may require a smart fob (see pic) in order to unlock as at present they do not respond when pressed. Would I be correct in my assumption? All 4 buttons on the key work for unlocking all and both side doors as both mine are powered.

Thanks Chris and Pete, Helpful advice which I will take on board. My first job is the cigarette lighter socket and once I have the cable I will crack on as Pete advised. After that I plan on adding some USB connections via a module from Aliexpress ( see pic) to the centre console allowing rear passengers to charge phones etc using the 12 volt feed to the inverter underneath the console.

I have an alpicool compressor fridge which runs on either the cigarette lighter socket when driving and a power station when the engine is off. I’m looking to have a socket behind the front seats to plug in the fridge or powerstation to charge it up when the fridge isn’t in use. I’ve ordered some good cable to do the job, I just need to figure out how to route it from the fusebox to the rear of the van.