Ben23

Update: As I suspected the 16-pin connector in the last photo is the main one. It's the same size as the 16-pin main socket on the new head unit, but it doesn't fit because those two pins on the right are too far apart. Just as well, because the wiring was completely different! Fortunately the wire colours were standard, so I've been able to wire that one up, and I now have power and sound. Just need to figure out all the others now...

Hi gang I bought an aftermarket Android unit with a new fascia for my AH10 facelift, foolishly believing that because the fascia was specifically designed for this vehicle, the correct interconnect looms would also be provided to interface between the new head unit's stock wiring, and the Alphard's. They did include a whole bunch of interconnects, but literally not a single plug of my current wiring fits in any of their sockets! I haven't managed to find any looms containing sockets for the plugs I have. It may be that my Alphard head unit is not the original one, although it is Toyota. It's certainly not one of the standard ones that most AH10s seem to have, and the sockets are different from any "for Toyota" loom I've found so far. I attach pictures of the old head unit and the plugs that fit it. Does anyone recognise these plugs/sockets, and can either point me to a conversion loom, sockets with bare wires, or even just pinout diagrams? I'm not an electronics noob, I can probably figure out what's what but it will be an extremely tedious process - any shortcut would be appreciated!

My head unit doesn't have an aux in on it, so I think the only way to plug in would be via the RCA connectors in front of the second row seats. So it's not so much the number of wires as the fact that it would be trailing through the cabin...

Thanks - I had tried that and bailed out of it when it didn't look like it was going to work, but I just needed to be more patient. After several minutes it finds the correct protocol. No Coding & Service menu option though, so doesn't look like it offers anything more than Torque after all. Looks like Techstream may be the only option for things like switching off beeps.

I'm considering this myself and there seems to be three options: 1. A standalone dashboard mounted unit such as Carpuride. Advantages: cheap; very easy to fit; can take it with you if you change cars. Disadvantages: Wires everywhere; might tempt thieves because it's easily removed; audio still goes via the built-in head unit which is also still used for reversing camera etc. 2. An all-in-one replacement designed to fit the AH10, built into a replacement fascia. Advantages: neat, moderately easy to fit, should theoretically come with the right plugs, can have a much bigger screen than the existing unit. Disadvantages: cheap Chinese no-name units, might have questionable sound quality. Often come with a replacement reversing camera because they're not compatible with the existing one, though the existing one can probably be used with the addition of a 12V-6V converter. 3. Fit a Double DIN adaptor and then choose any Double DIN head unit to fit it. Advantages: also neat, can choose any branded units like Pioneer, JVC, Alpine etc. Disadvantages: Almost certainly requires many adaptations to the wiring. Screen size probably limited to the size of the existing hole in the fascia. Can be expensive.

It's an app called Car Scanner ELM OBD2. It has been recommended elsewhere on the forum, but those who got it working appear to have AH20 or later. I'm well aware of other options but I'm trying to get this specific app working. Thanks

The insurance company appear to know that it has 8 seats. It's only the logbook that is wrong.

@Simbad For future reference, those side panels of the steering wheel are actually really easy to remove when you know how. I struggled to get the first one off and then realised how it should be done. The ideal tool is a thin metal spudger (I use the blunt end to avoid any risk of scratches). There is actually only one clip holding it in place, and it's in the centre of the front edge of each panel (nearest the driver's seat). All you need to do is shove the spudger straight in at that point, then bend it towards the driver's seat slightly so that the clip bends a little bit, just enough for its lip to clear the opening. Here, I made a video.

My V5C/logbook claims that my Alphard has 9 seats - of course it has 8. Should I try to get it changed, or doesn't it matter?

Has anyone got the Car Scanner app to work on an AH10 (facelift)? It connects to my widget (vgate icar pro 2s, as recommended by Car Scanner's author) but says it can't find the ECU. I am using the JOBD JDM CAN profile. Torque Pro is able to connect to the ECU and show live data successfully using the Toyota JDM profile (same widget, so I know that works), but I want to use Car Scanner to get at the extra options. Cheers.

@MelsBells74 How did you get on? What setup did you go with in the end?

ANH10 is front-wheel drive and ANH15 is 4WD. That's the only difference. It's not that ANH10 is pre-facelift and ANH15 is post-facelift. Both model codes were used pre- and post-facelift. So you need to look for the correct variant pre or post facelift, but otherwise, ANH10 and ANH15 should be the same for something like this.

Thanks guys. I test-drove a different one today and that crept as I expected, so I guess it was something amiss with the other one. Today's is the one I want to buy anyway

I appreciate it, thanks. I've never heard of doing that routinely. Doesn't it risk wearing your brakes faster as you're effectively accelerating before the brakes have fully released?

From what I've read, all non-hybrid AH10s use a standard 4- or 5-speed (depending on engine size) non-CVT.