New head unit

[Dein]

On 2/14/2023 at 1:40 PM, Nait said:

please help!

 

Good afternoon all, I have the same head unit in my Estima.

 

I can't find any harness for this model.

could any one tell me what is the output to speakers? it should pass through the amplifier in the connector A ? I should connect TX+ and TX- to control the amplifier ?

 

Thank you very much.

 

 

You can get the harness from aliexpress. They cost around £120 though.

Just search for the following on google and it will come up with the harness.

Car Android Radio Cable Connector Socket Power Wiring Harness with CANBus MOST Decoder for Toyota Alphard Lexus IS250 IS300

 

Edited February 24, 2023 by Dein

[Nait]

is a basic one, should be 11 speakers,

I have the Canbus box connected, should I connect the Audio output to the connector A? and use canbus to control the amplifier?

if yes, where I have to connect the WU0 wire?

Thanks for you time and help.

[Chris.ac]

On 2/28/2023 at 1:22 PM, Nait said:

is a basic one, should be 11 speakers,

I have the Canbus box connected, should I connect the Audio output to the connector A? and use canbus to control the amplifier?

if yes, where I have to connect the WU0 wire?

Thanks for you time and help.

Connector (a) is the digital audio out to the external amplifier

 

 

Not sure what headunit you are fitting, so no idea what the connections are. 

 

Canbus adaptor is usually for controlling the climate control. 

 

Original Cameras will connect to new headunit with some GVIF to phono adaptors. 

 

No idea what you are fitting, or what wiring harness you have. 

 

What is WU0? Is that on your new head unit? 

[Dein]

On 2/28/2023 at 1:22 PM, Nait said:

is a basic one, should be 11 speakers,

I have the Canbus box connected, should I connect the Audio output to the connector A? and use canbus to control the amplifier?

if yes, where I have to connect the WU0 wire?

Thanks for you time and help.

In addition to the CAN you also need MOST decoder if you want to use the built in amplifier but If you have amplified unit then you will find a connector attached to the body of the Estima where you can remove 2 connectors and plug them into your new system which will bypass the amplifier and connect to the speakers and power supply etc with ease. (WU0 is data out I believe.)

[Dein]

BTW if anyone is interested, there is a Lexus head unit which has same connectors so it may work but I don't know if it will be possible to fit it on the Alphard or Estima.

It's usually fitted to Lexus iS models from about 2010 to 2012

The North American one is lexus head unit 86805 53241.

There is a UK version as well for the same year cars.

[atlanticcobra2023]

Hi all I am a novice where the hybrid 2005 Toyota Alphard is concerned, I have been fitting a new Android head Unit to mine. So far so good.

with the birds nest of wires it would be good to know which are the speaker wires. I have to sort reverse assist etc yet.

[Pillarama]

Hi All, I have this head unit:

 

Which I think is identical to the one Chris.ac has. I'm hoping to do multiple upgrades/mods in stages as I have the time but none of my plans involve replacing the headunit itself. The first upgrade I am doing is adding a separate OpenAuto Pro install with Raspberry Pi and a separate Lilliput 7" Screen and send audio to the Aux input - thanks for the info here which described the AV (VTR) input pin-out as that was exactly what I needed there and saved me tracing it. That upgrade is coming along nicely just waiting on my CarPiHat to arrive from UK to complete it.

 

What I want to do now is integrate the steering wheel controls using an intermediate micro-controller between steering wheel and factory head-unit to allow me to "borrow" the steering wheel buttons by having two different "modes" that they can function in (eg press and hold the Mode button (or it that doesn't work, just a new purpose speciifc mode switch somewhere on the dash) and the micro-controller detects that at which point a relay would disconnect the steering wheel wires to the head unit allowing the buttons to then control OpenAuto Pro. Same process then reverses the state to return control to the Head Unit.

 

I have experience with "one wire" resistor-network steering wheel controls from multiple previous vehicles where that one wire essentially goes through a different resistor value to vehicle ground for each button but this three-wire setup is throwing me a bit (More the "SWG" bit than the fact there are SW1 and SW2 which I see is just two groups of buttons).

 

I have tested and can confirm that the two SW1 / SW2 wires (D25, D24) definitely correspond to the left / right groups of buttons as the voltage potential changes as the buttons are pressed (although surprisingly up to to 12v for any button) but the SWG "Switch Ground?" (D23) measures 12v potential difference to vehicle ground and the other two (24,25) measure about 10.3v.....?  I didn't expect that... I don't understand what the SWG wire is for...

 

In the past I would have used a pull-up resistor to form varying voltage dividers through the buttons and measure the voltage using an ADC. Does this style work similarly - I'm confused by the SWG being 12v I don't want to risk doing any damage. Also I would have expected the SW1 and SW2 to be 0v if they were just resistor networks to vehicle ground.

 

Does anyone know if I can wire this up similarly so that I can use a pair of ADCs on the micro-controller to read these two sets of buttons?

Hoping this isn't some new-fangled digital system?

 

Eventually I thought it would be neat to see if I can hijack the factory interfaces (eg maybe the Parking Assist ECU interconnect) to integrate OpenAuto Pro into the factory head unit similar to what I did with the Sony XAV SatNav add-on connector on my old XAV-601BT which carried RGB / Audio and UART touch info etc... or alternatively reverse engineer the factory head unit Firmware to see if any useful modifications can be made in software (eg translation to English / replacement of the satnav software / hiding the GBook stuff etc). But those projects are for another year....

 

Any assistance / insight would be greatly appreciated!

 

Chris.ac is there any way you might be able to direct/assist me somehow on acquiring a full copy of the wiring diagrams that you have?

 

Thanks

 

[Pillarama]

tl;dr

So it was late last night (or should I say this morning) when I was working on this and maybe I should have already packed it in for the night. Apparently I must have probed the wrong pins or something (but then weirdly the DMM was definitely responding to button presses so just not how I expected...so IDK), I just double-checked and now it's behaving like I would have expected .... SWG is not measuring 12v to Vehicle ground now and neither is SW1 or SW2 measuring 10.3v as they were either (that is with the plug disconnected from the head unit in any case).  And the resistance between SWG and SW1 / SW2 is reading nice consistent, sensible resistance measurements for each button now.... so I think I can make this work... Probably the only thing I'm concerned about is trying to keep the ADC ground separate from the vehicle ground. Since I presume that Toyota did that for good reason....

 

 

[RobPearson]

following with interest-  I have the same headinut in my estima hybrid G (2010).  have just had some irregular issues with audio popping and seemingly muting the headunit.  also lost feed do the roof screen in the rear, but that's back now.  I notice what I assume is two amps under the passenger seat, one sat on top of the auto park computer.  I've disconnected the teletry plug and the TV antenna as they dont serve any use to me.  I don't suppose anyone has come across a wiring extension plug for the 10 pin aux plug? I'd much rather splice into a removable cable than the original if I can.  Like Pillarama I'm installing a Raspi, but just want the audio feed, will put an additional screen infront of the steering wheel for carplay.

[Chris.ac]

On 4/9/2023 at 7:08 AM, Pillarama said:

Hi All, I have this head unit:

 

Which I think is identical to the one Chris.ac has. I'm hoping to do multiple upgrades/mods in stages as I have the time but none of my plans involve replacing the headunit itself. The first upgrade I am doing is adding a separate OpenAuto Pro install with Raspberry Pi and a separate Lilliput 7" Screen and send audio to the Aux input - thanks for the info here which described the AV (VTR) input pin-out as that was exactly what I needed there and saved me tracing it. That upgrade is coming along nicely just waiting on my CarPiHat to arrive from UK to complete it.

 

What I want to do now is integrate the steering wheel controls using an intermediate micro-controller between steering wheel and factory head-unit to allow me to "borrow" the steering wheel buttons by having two different "modes" that they can function in (eg press and hold the Mode button (or it that doesn't work, just a new purpose speciifc mode switch somewhere on the dash) and the micro-controller detects that at which point a relay would disconnect the steering wheel wires to the head unit allowing the buttons to then control OpenAuto Pro. Same process then reverses the state to return control to the Head Unit.

 

I have experience with "one wire" resistor-network steering wheel controls from multiple previous vehicles where that one wire essentially goes through a different resistor value to vehicle ground for each button but this three-wire setup is throwing me a bit (More the "SWG" bit than the fact there are SW1 and SW2 which I see is just two groups of buttons).

 

I have tested and can confirm that the two SW1 / SW2 wires (D25, D24) definitely correspond to the left / right groups of buttons as the voltage potential changes as the buttons are pressed (although surprisingly up to to 12v for any button) but the SWG "Switch Ground?" (D23) measures 12v potential difference to vehicle ground and the other two (24,25) measure about 10.3v.....?  I didn't expect that... I don't understand what the SWG wire is for...

 

In the past I would have used a pull-up resistor to form varying voltage dividers through the buttons and measure the voltage using an ADC. Does this style work similarly - I'm confused by the SWG being 12v I don't want to risk doing any damage. Also I would have expected the SW1 and SW2 to be 0v if they were just resistor networks to vehicle ground.

 

Does anyone know if I can wire this up similarly so that I can use a pair of ADCs on the micro-controller to read these two sets of buttons?

Hoping this isn't some new-fangled digital system?

 

Eventually I thought it would be neat to see if I can hijack the factory interfaces (eg maybe the Parking Assist ECU interconnect) to integrate OpenAuto Pro into the factory head unit similar to what I did with the Sony XAV SatNav add-on connector on my old XAV-601BT which carried RGB / Audio and UART touch info etc... or alternatively reverse engineer the factory head unit Firmware to see if any useful modifications can be made in software (eg translation to English / replacement of the satnav software / hiding the GBook stuff etc). But those projects are for another year....

 

Any assistance / insight would be greatly appreciated!

 

Chris.ac is there any way you might be able to direct/assist me somehow on acquiring a full copy of the wiring diagrams that you have?

 

Thanks

 

 

Sure, PM me your Gmail, I'll add you to my Google drive

[atlanticcobra2023]

[atlanticcobra2023]

I decided I wanted a better Camera system due to tow bar for trailer so fitted the above.

Trailer attached leaves reversing a little sketchy, with this system all good. So losing the 360 

after fitting after market head unit not an issue for me, just wish I had adapter to wire up to amp

 

 

Edited April 11, 2023 by atlanticcobra2023

[Chris.ac]

4 hours ago, RobPearson said:

following with interest-  I have the same headinut in my estima hybrid G (2010).  have just had some irregular issues with audio popping and seemingly muting the headunit.  also lost feed do the roof screen in the rear, but that's back now.  I notice what I assume is two amps under the passenger seat, one sat on top of the auto park computer.  I've disconnected the teletry plug and the TV antenna as they dont serve any use to me.  I don't suppose anyone has come across a wiring extension plug for the 10 pin aux plug? I'd much rather splice into a removable cable than the original if I can.  Like Pillarama I'm installing a Raspi, but just want the audio feed, will put an additional screen infront of the steering wheel for carplay.

 

We can get the part number of the aux plug, and then you can create your own, or try and find an estima at a scrap yard? 

[Pillarama]

 I spent some time looking before I got impatient and decided to just do my best soldering job on the factory loom (de-pinned, stripped and wound, then heat-shrinked so it's essentially reversible with just a small break in the original wire casing and no nasty scotch locks).

 

I'm pretty sure this is the correct Aux plug if you decided to just buy one new (but you'll need a crimping tool to assemble it):
 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000181143484.html

That listing has the plug and socket so that opens a few different options.

 

I find looking for pre-made looms yields almost exclusively the 6-pin type, rather than the 8-pin variation that my head unit seems to have (RobPearson is yours actually 10 pin? - wow different again...) This one is probably the closest I could find and looks similar enough to the 8 pin that I think it night be possible to make it fit:

https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004806076482.html

 

[Chris.ac]

17 hours ago, Pillarama said:

 I spent some time looking before I got impatient and decided to just do my best soldering job on the factory loom (de-pinned, stripped and wound, then heat-shrinked so it's essentially reversible with just a small break in the original wire casing and no nasty scotch locks).

 

I'm pretty sure this is the correct Aux plug if you decided to just buy one new (but you'll need a crimping tool to assemble it):
 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000181143484.html

That listing has the plug and socket so that opens a few different options.

 

I find looking for pre-made looms yields almost exclusively the 6-pin type, rather than the 8-pin variation that my head unit seems to have (RobPearson is yours actually 10 pin? - wow different again...) This one is probably the closest I could find and looks similar enough to the 8 pin that I think it night be possible to make it fit:

https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004806076482.html

 

It's because most of the standard sites like aliexpress, ebay etc are bringing up the export model wiring (E.g. From a ggh20R instead of a ggh20W) because a lot of the stuff on those sites are from Malaysian export modifications 

 

Have to be quite specific or use japanese sites

[NeerajBhardwaj]

I am trying to see of I can take put head unit , any idea how to detach climate control section ,it's coming out along with head unit 

TA

 

 

[NeerajBhardwaj]

7 minutes ago, NeerajBhardwaj said:

I am trying to see of I can take put head unit , any idea how to detach climate control section ,it's coming out along with head unit 

TA

 

 

In this video I can see he is just pulling it out but it's far to understand how 

 

[NeerajBhardwaj]

1 hour ago, NeerajBhardwaj said:

In this video I can see he is just pulling it out but it's far to understand how 

 

Could not take climate control out yet but manged to take photo of back of unit ,seems different from other pictures in this thread 

[atlanticcobra2023]

1 hour ago, NeerajBhardwaj said:

Could not take climate control out yet but manged to take photo of back of unit ,seems different from other pictures in this thread 

Yeah there a lot of different entertainment units across the range, mine is totally different to most. The climate control on mine was pretty easy to suss out once I had removed the whole unit together. Bit of advice if you can put gear knob back on loosely to avoid damaging screen if you slip while manoeuvring the head unit about. take a pic of back of climate control and if same as mine I can give a little more help 

[atlanticcobra2023]

3 hours ago, NeerajBhardwaj said:

I am trying to see of I can take put head unit , any idea how to detach climate control section ,it's coming out along with head unit 

TA

 

 

You unplug all the connectors, the climate control on mine has 3 connectors. Dont worry about mixing them up they are all specific plugs for their sockets. climate control should separate later on in the replacement sequence

Edited May 14, 2023 by atlanticcobra2023
more info

[atlanticcobra2023]

sorry I meant to say you separate the climate control unit later on from the original facia panel you have removed, once all connectors are unplugged the climate control and original head unit should all lift away together. on mine there was also cig lighter, passenger seatbelt and hazard warning lights sockets that had to be disconnected too, before I could lift the whole facia panel with original head unit away.

 

[NeerajBhardwaj]

5 hours ago, atlanticcobra2023 said:

You unplug all the connectors, the climate control on mine has 3 connectors. Dont worry about mixing them up they are all specific plugs for their sockets. climate control should separate later on in the replacement sequence

Thank You atlanticcobra2023, will try that, 

[NeerajBhardwaj]

5 hours ago, atlanticcobra2023 said:

Yeah there a lot of different entertainment units across the range, mine is totally different to most. The climate control on mine was pretty easy to suss out once I had removed the whole unit together. Bit of advice if you can put gear knob back on loosely to avoid damaging screen if you slip while manoeuvring the head unit about. take a pic of back of climate control and if same as mine I can give a little more help 

Will do, thanks for inputs

[NeerajBhardwaj]

12 hours ago, NeerajBhardwaj said:

loosely

When I put gear knob to most downward which is D ,electronics on Head Unit is still on eventhough car is not ,is it safe to remove or add connections while it's still powered ?

Regards

Neeraj

[atlanticcobra2023]

14 minutes ago, NeerajBhardwaj said:

When I put gear knob to most downward which is D ,electronics on Head Unit is still on eventhough car is not ,is it safe to remove or add connections while it's still powered ?

Regards

Neeraj

turn the ignition off remove the key. You have a shift lock button I presume. press shift lock button and you can move gear stick through gears without any issue of vehicle electrics being on. The climate controls i.e. two figures for front and back may show, but removing the connecting plugs wont cause any issues. you may get engine management light coming on when you first reconnect everything, but this will go once you have driven car a couple of times. On mine best position was "N" made it easier when replacing facia when completed job

 

Edited May 15, 2023 by atlanticcobra2023