The AH01 number is just underneath the Odometer readout and i assume is the panel model - as new info comes along i can change this.

The first thing to do is to remove / loosed the two fasteners in the top of the dash - i used a medium sized crosshead screwdriver bit. Turn each through 90 degrees to disengage the lugs - the fastener should then be loose.

 

After that use a plastic trim tool to pop the base of the cover loose and pull it forward - it's all in one and easy to remove.

Edited June 22Jun 22 by Gamith
Forgot the AH01 picture.

Next with a crosshead screwdriver remove three screws - one at the top and then two at the bottom.

Removing the panel itself means these two connectors need to be disconnected - there is a central lever to push in on each and then they can be loosened and pulled free.

Congratulations - the panel is now out. 

You will see four screws that need to be undone (top left and right, bottom left and right) - once more my crosshead screwdriver was able to do these. 

There are a series of 8 clips to remove the front cover - four on the top and four on the bottom, I released the top ones and then the bottom, but hey - you do you.

You can then remove the indicator umm pointers? there must be a proper words.

 

I didn't do this - I removed the back panel and wondered what the noise of falling pointers was.

There is a connector on the left side that can be disconnected.

 

Hopefully yours will have a better focus than mine 🙂

The circuit board looks like this.

 

Please note that there are no screws holding this in place - just a single clip in the middle that is just visible to the left of the black motor in the middle.

VERY IMPORTANT

Before moving the circuit board note that there is a very delicate set of pins at the bottom of the board - i used a trim tool to gently lever the board free.

The underside of the board.

If you look carefully you can see the slender motor spindles for the 4 indicators.

And that is the point that i gave up on identifying what dashboard bulbs didn't work as the sods are soldered directly onto the board. 

 

However I was able to take a picture of the dashboard with no backing so I could see all the lights I could have:

 

I don't think I have the VSC, TRC, AFS, Lane assist or the 'beachball on your lap' indicator systems though.

I DO have the cruise, and others though.

Edited June 22Jun 22 by Gamith

Replacement is the reverse of course, though I may need to tweak the pointer positions, as the car was turned off I set them all to their home / zero positions

What triggered this was an auto electrician saying that the indicator on the dashboard didn't work to show that the battery wasn't charging, but looking at the options I don't think that light exists.

By the looks of things I would have to rig up a 12v battery tester and test each LED to see whether it E'd any L. Judging by the labelling there are at least 92 of them - at least they have the anticipated current direction marked, so that's handy I guess.

Then of course there would be the soldering. I don't know which of the two options would be best - replace or put new LEDs on top of the existing ones.

Edited June 22Jun 22 by Gamith
Testing LEDs