Gamith

I have replaced mine as it was missing the lower arm so was only useful for holding bags. I can't find any pictures of the replacement though this is the ebay listing. I don't recall it being particularly difficult, I suspect it was a couple of screws or bolts accessed from above by removing the 'wood' trim.

Is this the part, the 'weatherstrip, back door'? This is from amayama.com for my 2005 facelift model. If so the part number is 67881-58010. A quick look on ebay would suggest that it's cheaper to get it from Japan, but I only spent 5mins looking. Make sure you put the correct model number into sites like amayama.com.

There are fuses that are supposed to light up to indicate that they are blown. (aliexpress for example) which look to be worth a try as it might make this sort of thing a lot easier to diagnose and fix.

I always understood that DMFs were used in manual gearboxes and the amayama site for my 2005 shows a torque converter but nothing to indicate that the flywheel is anything other than a single mass: Unless I am missing something of course. TTFN Paul

If it were my 2005 model I would go through each fuse with a circuit tester to find any non-functional fuses - bit of a pain I know but this sounds like more than one fuse gone. Looking at my fuse boards I have one mention of VSC in the main engine board: And one in the passenger-side fuse board: Hopefully you have a JOBD reader - does it give any error codes? I hope this helps.

These are the connectors that my previous head unit was using and I can't help but feel it could do better. The new head unit works well, I have set up the steering wheel controls and a USB microSD card reader is on it's way so I can add a load of music to it (and not have it playing off my phone all the time). With the replacement head unit I also got this additional connector set: The car (2005 facelift) has these additional connectors (sorry it's not the clearest): So my question is whether there is some way to connect the extra connectors to the unused connectors in the car - I am assuming that some must be connected to speakers that aren't currently being used. Am I chasing a dream or are any of these connectors actually going to be of some use? Hopefully someone can let me know.

That part is considerably cheaper if I just do a search for it.https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/6925030020b2 maybe try again?

I would try amayama.com first to find the part number and then use that to search Ebay etc. You can order from them but delivery from Japan will take a while. On my AH10 it looks to be part number 6921728010A1 but yours is a later vehicle. the last two are for the colour so you will need to get the right one.

There is a second fuel/air ratio sensor in the exhaust, maybe that needs some tlc or replacement? Otherwise it sounds like some good progress. Have you cleared the old codes, waited for the issue to appear and re-read for new codes?

Only a thought - some photos of your wiper arms and what you have so far might help - it's possible that some custom arms have replaced the stock ones.

There was a post a little while ago about cleaning those air quality monitors - there is one in the back as well. The little grill on that switch hides a suction system that passes cabin air over a sensor. As you can imagine this builds up a collection of dust etc. over time and then the sensor is unable to work. Mine looked like: So definitely worth taking a look when you get a chance. A toothbrush or vacuum cleaner should be able to clean it up, just don't push more crud into the unit. :-) I hope this helps.

I have heard people saying on the forum that changing to braided pipes made a difference, but mine is stock so can't confirm.

Having replaced the battery the only things I had to do was reset the clock and then the windows (fully lower, keep the button down for 5 seconds and then raise it up to closed, hold for 5 seconds and then do the next).

In this picture: Top-Left is for the brake fluid Bottom-Left is for the engine oil Bottom-Middle is for the engine oil dipstick Bottom-Right is for the washer fluid Middle-Right is for the engine coolant with a caution about steam (I expect) Top-Right is for the engine coolant expansion tank, with the min and max marks on it, probably for when the engine is cold, but check the manual for that. Hopefully someone can confirm.

I have not looked at the manual yet but my first choice would be the black arrow, 2nd the red arrow. The red arrow one has 'Engine Coolant' which is a bit of a giveaway and the black one looks to be the expansion tank and should have max and min markings on. I hope this helps.

I have mine suctioned onto the drivers side window - it has a long arm which brings it close enough to be reachable :-) Suffice to say there are options - a search on Aliexpress for 'alphard mobile phone holder' shows some designs, including at least one that wirelessly charges the phone in the holder.

Yep, it sounds as though you have reached the limit of what can be reasonably done at home.

Try amayama.com, put in the model and choose the chassis reference number (you will see what I mean) and see what you can find. For mine (a 2005 ATH10) it looks to be : 488208 (RH) or 48810 (LH) by the looks of things and they are different for each side and remarkably cheap - so make sure they are what you are after. Once you have the number you can search UK based websites if you like, or order from Amayama.

Until someone with more knowledge comes along I will say that I wouldn't use that location myself - I suspect it's a protector plate and not designed to hold up a ton or so. I have found this video that might help - the jacking point for the rear looks to be just in front of the spare tyre: Axle stands in the locations after the front wheels and before the rear wheels once it's raised would provide stability.

Hopefully you won't need to use this but if you need to re-cut the thread on the lambda sensor hole or the sensor itself they are an M18 x 1.5 tap and die. I got mine from Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9T6VBGR?ref_=pe_112168041_1111392281_fed_asin_title&th=1

So you changed the O2 sensor on the front exhaust manifold - that is likely to be the bank 1 sensor? There is another underneath, which should be referred to as 'bank 2' (I think) so that may be a similar replacement. I only changed the front one and it passed the MoT with no issues. Check: the cleaned MAF sensor is mounted tightly and electrically connected Ok. the replaced sensor is screwed in fully and no air is getting in that way - I had to ream out a new thread on mine as the previous person had jammed and cross-threaded it. that the air filter is also not loose and fitted back Ok. the electrical connections are good - remove and re-seat them You are right that the system thinks that there isn't enough petrol going in (in relation to air), so it's a matter of working out why that would be. I hope that helps.

I tend to use amayama.com to find the right part number and then do a search on ebay.co.uk or autodoc.co.uk to see if anyone can do it cheaper or faster.

There is a review of the arpenaz which has plenty of pictures of it in place at the rear of many vehicles (though not an Alphard specifically) here: https://nimblecamper.com/arpenaz-base-m-car-camping-review/ if that is of any interest. Mine has turned up but I don't know when I will get a chance to try a setup.

I would have thought a look underneath would be the most certain way - is there a driveshaft or something on the rear wheels? This is my definitely NOT 4WD 10 series for reference, with just the brake caliper attached to the rear wheel. I hope this helps.

I have been looking at the QUECHUA Arpenaz Base M car tent: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/6-man-camping-living-area-arpenaz-base-m/157674/c98c241m8648391 Which looks to be a good option for a side or tailgate tent at the cheap end to see if the concept works for you. My wife finds sleeping inside the alphard to be awkward so I was thinking of that and a couple of camp beds.