Gamith

Yep, it sounds as though you have reached the limit of what can be reasonably done at home.

Try amayama.com, put in the model and choose the chassis reference number (you will see what I mean) and see what you can find. For mine (a 2005 ATH10) it looks to be : 488208 (RH) or 48810 (LH) by the looks of things and they are different for each side and remarkably cheap - so make sure they are what you are after. Once you have the number you can search UK based websites if you like, or order from Amayama.

Until someone with more knowledge comes along I will say that I wouldn't use that location myself - I suspect it's a protector plate and not designed to hold up a ton or so. I have found this video that might help - the jacking point for the rear looks to be just in front of the spare tyre: Axle stands in the locations after the front wheels and before the rear wheels once it's raised would provide stability.

Hopefully you won't need to use this but if you need to re-cut the thread on the lambda sensor hole or the sensor itself they are an M18 x 1.5 tap and die. I got mine from Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9T6VBGR?ref_=pe_112168041_1111392281_fed_asin_title&th=1

So you changed the O2 sensor on the front exhaust manifold - that is likely to be the bank 1 sensor? There is another underneath, which should be referred to as 'bank 2' (I think) so that may be a similar replacement. I only changed the front one and it passed the MoT with no issues. Check: the cleaned MAF sensor is mounted tightly and electrically connected Ok. the replaced sensor is screwed in fully and no air is getting in that way - I had to ream out a new thread on mine as the previous person had jammed and cross-threaded it. that the air filter is also not loose and fitted back Ok. the electrical connections are good - remove and re-seat them You are right that the system thinks that there isn't enough petrol going in (in relation to air), so it's a matter of working out why that would be. I hope that helps.

I tend to use amayama.com to find the right part number and then do a search on ebay.co.uk or autodoc.co.uk to see if anyone can do it cheaper or faster.

There is a review of the arpenaz which has plenty of pictures of it in place at the rear of many vehicles (though not an Alphard specifically) here: https://nimblecamper.com/arpenaz-base-m-car-camping-review/ if that is of any interest. Mine has turned up but I don't know when I will get a chance to try a setup.

I would have thought a look underneath would be the most certain way - is there a driveshaft or something on the rear wheels? This is my definitely NOT 4WD 10 series for reference, with just the brake caliper attached to the rear wheel. I hope this helps.

I have been looking at the QUECHUA Arpenaz Base M car tent: https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/6-man-camping-living-area-arpenaz-base-m/157674/c98c241m8648391 Which looks to be a good option for a side or tailgate tent at the cheap end to see if the concept works for you. My wife finds sleeping inside the alphard to be awkward so I was thinking of that and a couple of camp beds.

Personally, as I don't have your model, I would look at amayama.com and search your model for coil, pack, spark or plugs - one will bound to help.

It sounds as though you have done all the stuff that would be able to find the issue Personally I would, at this stage, call in an auto-electrician, otherwise you could be chasing your tail for ages and changing everything under the sun. I assume that the belt is tight, doesn't slip and that the alternator turns. Assuming that the replacement alternators weren't old we can discount, for example, worn brushes or other item-specific issues. With the engine running there should be an input voltage to the alternator (12v) and, obviously, an output voltage (14v). I would redo the earth connections 'just in case' and take a record of the voltages at various points. Disconnecting the alternator, with the engine off, would allow you to take measurements across the feeds, then turn on the ignition on and see if the measurements change at all. I have found this picture that goes through the connections on a 2008 - I don't know how relevant that might be to yours though. I'm sure there are better diagrams around. Good luck

I would start with https://www.tayna.co.uk/ and see the range they do: https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/ the more amps the more it can power but the longer it will take to fully charge. The other consideration is the size and post position, depending on where it goes and how it connects. You can search using a variety of options. I have used them and the battery they supplied does the job very well and was delivered quickly and well packaged.

1) Look at amayama.com, put in your vehicle details and do a search for 'mount' I would imagine. 2) Get the part numbers for the ones you want - and the price they would charge. 3) Search the inter-tubes for those part numbers to see if anyone does them cheaper / quicker 4) Profit!

Cheers Richard, the next time I am crawling underneath I will take a look for the sensors that Alex mentions, but in the meantime I will assume that as the front cameras don't work on the replacement WinCE head unit then that would be why the lane monitoring system activates and then turns itself off. Thanks everyone.

I can only imagine that they could be behind the holes with the two slats under the fog lights.

Would I be able to see them from the front or are they hidden behind the bumper and I would need to be underneath? I would be surprised to have the button fitted and active but the rest of the system not existing - but saying that who knows what its history is.

Cheers - the head unit had been replaced before I got it so this looks to be a pointless button on the dash at the moment. I can't say I am too fussed.

The only help I can offer are a couple of pictures I have taken of my 2005 rear suspension. From what I can tell I would say that there is a rubber ring on the top mounting,. but not the bottom one. Oh and this from amayama.com: Which confirms and gives a part number - 48257-28060 - there are several sites that seem to have this part - looking at prices amayama is cheapest if you don't mind waiting. I hope that helps.

Aliexpress has several: https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-110v-induction.html?spm=a2g0o.home.search.0 Amazon has at least one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Cooktop-Countertop-Over-Heat-Protection/dp/B0GFNTTWNP/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1Q1C7LAJWFZSQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7BS7UvXWgkZ0UkTpvPU1mj2F-AJmKLFwHJDY9aPtepJ8s6e2N9LEaHBIMKwwmNAjZQqnchhGf1NApq2aAO7fz04PhRTPKKTaycnMyZBKFXvsAzmO-f5DoFkBXzQIHEJWCH1TDF4ILo0mS81QwN-qDbZ8cMXqeH7Swh2WZjpkzdfv8nWbngcleCfqrormTM-gzc5njf99P5Th1q12GzatPl6kH_7G1d2lNT4jHPBy6qI.Ht-lbjWEHvhJYnxYhjHyQAAlf6puAAmP60Sx4foRKa4&dib_tag=se&keywords=110v+induction&qid=1775801149&sprefix=110v+induction%2Caps%2C268&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.d7e5a2de-8759-4da3-993c-d11b6e3d217f

Like this one: https://uk.alphardclub.com/forums/topic/8459-flashing-red-symbol-of-a-key-over-a-car/#comment-30219 If so that is the immobiliser and it comes on when the correct key isn't in the ignition.

Aside from the obvious: 1) power not getting to fuseboard - ie the fuse is Ok but it has nothing to pass on. 2) power not getting from the fuseboard to the switch If power is getting to the switch then the switch is faulty, otherwise if power is coming from the switch (when it's 'on') then it's the connection from the switch to the motor. You could try running a temporary couple of feeds from the switch to the motor to confirm that open and close work.

Until I find out where the sensors are I will keep it turned on and see what happens. Thanks for your help.

I went out on a run and the green indicator turned off after a few seconds and when I crossed a lane it diid nothing, so something is either missing or broken. What sensors does it use - the front camera maybe?

On my dashboard there is this light. pressing the corresponding button on the left of the steering wheel Causes the symbol to light up green. WHat does this system do? The manual says it's the 'Lane Monitoring System' but doesn't say what it does - I am assuming that it looks for the lane indicators and if the vehicle drifts over (maybe without indicating?) it sounds an alert. I suppose the best answer is to take it for a drive and see what happens, but maybe someone here knows? Cheers.

Good call - I have just done the same based on your finding. My aircon was working fine, at the front at least. I needed a flat screwdriver on one side and a trim removal tool on the other to undo the clips Mine was almost as fluffed up. The plastic air tube just needs pulling off after a twist to break the decades old 'seal' that had built up. The electricval connector was the expected 'press tab' type. I would add that I unclipped the sides to open the unit (Denso 077500-5250 / Toyota 88625-58020) up and found the circuit board was still fluffy so cleaned that also. Next job will be the rear one, which I believe is this object: I just need to empty the boot to get at it :-) It looks like it should be removable easily enough - has anyone tried this? I hope this helps.