Gamith

These are the connectors that my previous head unit was using and I can't help but feel it could do better. The new head unit works well, I have set up the steering wheel controls and a USB microSD card reader is on it's way so I can add a load of music to it (and not have it playing off my phone all the time). With the replacement head unit I also got this additional connector set: The car (2005 facelift) has these additional connectors (sorry it's not the clearest): So my question is whether there is some way to connect the extra connectors to the unused connectors in the car - I am assuming that some must be connected to speakers that aren't currently being used. Am I chasing a dream or are any of these connectors actually going to be of some use? Hopefully someone can let me know.

That part is considerably cheaper if I just do a search for it.https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/6925030020b2 maybe try again?

I would try amayama.com first to find the part number and then use that to search Ebay etc. You can order from them but delivery from Japan will take a while. On my AH10 it looks to be part number 6921728010A1 but yours is a later vehicle. the last two are for the colour so you will need to get the right one.

There is a second fuel/air ratio sensor in the exhaust, maybe that needs some tlc or replacement? Otherwise it sounds like some good progress. Have you cleared the old codes, waited for the issue to appear and re-read for new codes?

Only a thought - some photos of your wiper arms and what you have so far might help - it's possible that some custom arms have replaced the stock ones.

There was a post a little while ago about cleaning those air quality monitors - there is one in the back as well. The little grill on that switch hides a suction system that passes cabin air over a sensor. As you can imagine this builds up a collection of dust etc. over time and then the sensor is unable to work. Mine looked like: So definitely worth taking a look when you get a chance. A toothbrush or vacuum cleaner should be able to clean it up, just don't push more crud into the unit. :-) I hope this helps.

I have heard people saying on the forum that changing to braided pipes made a difference, but mine is stock so can't confirm.

Having replaced the battery the only things I had to do was reset the clock and then the windows (fully lower, keep the button down for 5 seconds and then raise it up to closed, hold for 5 seconds and then do the next).

In this picture: Top-Left is for the brake fluid Bottom-Left is for the engine oil Bottom-Middle is for the engine oil dipstick Bottom-Right is for the washer fluid Middle-Right is for the engine coolant with a caution about steam (I expect) Top-Right is for the engine coolant expansion tank, with the min and max marks on it, probably for when the engine is cold, but check the manual for that. Hopefully someone can confirm.

I have not looked at the manual yet but my first choice would be the black arrow, 2nd the red arrow. The red arrow one has 'Engine Coolant' which is a bit of a giveaway and the black one looks to be the expansion tank and should have max and min markings on. I hope this helps.

I have mine suctioned onto the drivers side window - it has a long arm which brings it close enough to be reachable :-) Suffice to say there are options - a search on Aliexpress for 'alphard mobile phone holder' shows some designs, including at least one that wirelessly charges the phone in the holder.

Yep, it sounds as though you have reached the limit of what can be reasonably done at home.

Try amayama.com, put in the model and choose the chassis reference number (you will see what I mean) and see what you can find. For mine (a 2005 ATH10) it looks to be : 488208 (RH) or 48810 (LH) by the looks of things and they are different for each side and remarkably cheap - so make sure they are what you are after. Once you have the number you can search UK based websites if you like, or order from Amayama.

Until someone with more knowledge comes along I will say that I wouldn't use that location myself - I suspect it's a protector plate and not designed to hold up a ton or so. I have found this video that might help - the jacking point for the rear looks to be just in front of the spare tyre: Axle stands in the locations after the front wheels and before the rear wheels once it's raised would provide stability.

Hopefully you won't need to use this but if you need to re-cut the thread on the lambda sensor hole or the sensor itself they are an M18 x 1.5 tap and die. I got mine from Amazon - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C9T6VBGR?ref_=pe_112168041_1111392281_fed_asin_title&th=1