Gamith

There are, of course, other considerations, the newer ones don't look to have rotatable middle seats, and fewer of them - depending on model, but they have more toys. Newer vehicles will _tend_ to be in better condition and have fewer miles (KMs) on them. Newer ones are likely to have easier access to spares etc. but that is rather subjective in any case. But it's all dependant on your personal views.

And you could also do a search for breakers, though my sole experience was someone who wanted to charge the same price for a second hand bit as a new part from Japan.

I got a big box of various fixings from ebay - though I suspect aliexpress, temu, etc. will all do the same. They are especially good for ones that you will struggle to find a particular name for.

Hopefully someone will be along who can help with real knowledge 🙂

I had a quick look on Aliexpress and found some for UKP 33.29. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007412234497.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.53.2c180Dzy0DzyTz&algo_pvid=a0cb904f-373c-477a-9a4d-e3b932bade79&algo_exp_id=a0cb904f-373c-477a-9a4d-e3b932bade79-26&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"2"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!GBP!75.66!33.29!!!673.13!296.17!%40!12000040652898708!sea!UK!6132551462!X&curPageLogUid=EdtADpcqAOm5&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A) you will want to check year and fit etc - this would be for my 05/2005 model. Downside is that they would take some time to arrive.

I would step through everything to make sue it works just to check fuses if nothing else. To my mind it sounds like a dodgy earth strap or similar but hopefully it won't reappear.

I took mine to a local locksmith (ARC in Stevenage) and they scanned my existing key to determine the frequency it used. Then I looked on ebay for fobs and key blanks that matched that frequency and buttons. There was a fair bit of faff around getting the keys programmed but the cutting went well. They needed a sort of OBD patch panel for their fob programmer to get it's expected 12v from the vehicle. But they have done it once now so when they get another 2005 Alphard it should be easier for the next person.

Yep - same light clusters as my facelifted one, though you seem to be missing the dual cameras in the front grill (not that they are of any use 🙂 and the rear wiper.

The deal with the steering wheel buttons is the small white connector that sends data / power / magic to the cruise control stalk. I'm sure someone can elucidate but asfaik it's needed.

Mine is a face-lift model and its May 2005, so yours should be a face-lift version also. One tell for the face-lift version is whether there is a second kerb-side mirror on the mirror to help with parking. there are some examples on wikipedia here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Alphard. I have successfully fitted cruise-control to mine - very straight-forward once you have taken the cover off the steering wheel, though I did get caught out by the colour of my stalk surround, I didn't realise that the first one I bought was black, rather than a grey colour. Surround - 45186-58020 Steering wheel button - 1870633-30 and a search for 'CRUISE CONTROL STALK SWICTH FIT FOR TOYOTA YARIS RAV4 LANDCRUISER PRIUS AURIS' (ebay item:184954212553) found me the stalk.

I just checked mine (a facelift 2005) and there was no illumination of the gear selector. I know there is a green LED under there so I started to pull on the housing so see what i could see and it then worked - sigh.

I am wondering whether, after almost 20 years, the alternator brushes need replacing. It looks to be part number 27370-20130 (https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/2737020130). Has anyone got any experience in changing an alternator brush?

I have a GPS HUD but I don't know whether that would be Ok for the MoT. The previous people had fitted a simple conversion chart of values which I can only assume is Ok for MoT purposes, maybe that was what your tester was referring to.

I have an auto-electrician booked for next Wednesday afternoon so hopefully he will be able to test both at least.

You could start by finding the item on https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/toyota/alphard - then, once you have the number, look on ebay to see if you can get one quicker / cheaper. If you can extract the existing one you may be able to find the part number on that.

Never seen one of these and don't know what I am talking about but here goes ... I note that there is a bulge to the right of the two buttons - does the bottom of that move at all? Next, are there any buttons on the other side that get exposed when the seat is moved forwards? next, are there any buttons or levers on the front that would swivel the seats? also .. are there any buttons on the dashboard that might operate the welcab? Good luck.

Hi all, I am seeing these symptoms, not sure if they are related or not but any clues / suggestions would be appreciated. I had a fun local trip yesterday, the Alphard started Ok (first time as usual) and seemed Ok until I tried using the indicators as there was no response at all. In the past I have come across this as possibly being a low battery so I kept an eye on things. A 10 min drive later I stopped for about 10 (picking up a dry cleaned rug - probably not related 🙂 ) and when I came to starting it up it was a little sluggish (I would be guessing it was at 11v maybe) but started thankfully. About 2 mins into the drive the ABS and passenger seat belt indicators came on, which I haven't seen before. The engine started to struggle but then recovered and I removed the rug from the seat but the lights remained. I got home Ok and parked up and tried restarting but there wasn't enough to even start a crank. I took the battery out, recharged it overnight and put it back in again this morning. It was reading 13.6v before I connected it. I tried the engine (it started) and the indicators (they didn't work) and started going through the fuses. The battery was reading around 12.5v while running and, when turned off, this would be a little higher (12.8v or thereabouts - I suspect this might be to do with the battery top-up solar charger I fitted to the main battery) but I would have expected 13v to 14v. The HORN-ALT 20A fuse in the large fuse box is fine, as are the others in there. The three fuses in the secondary engine bay box are also fine. I looked through the manual at the drivers and passengers fuses boxes and I can't see any for the alternator or indicators. Currently stumped at where to go from here beyond giving it to the care of an auto-electrician. I must point out that this Alphard has been fitted with a leisure battery charging system and it's own solar charger via a controller. I have also fitted; GPS HUD, dashcam, swapped out the 2 110v ports for two twin USB ports and a second accessory socket. For these I have recently used fused spurs to give some additional fused connections from the passenger side fuse board - like this: And before me: the radio has been swapped for an english unit (whose touch screen is no longer working), causing quite a bit of confused wiring behind the dashboard. A fog light switch has also been fitted and a twin port USB socket as well. Hopefully I have given a full picture, but if there is anything I have missed please let me know. Cheers Paul

When you move the gear selector is there any sort of resistance - I am wondering whether the link between the selector and the gearbox may have come loose. it looks like there should be a cable connecting the two. (this is for a 2005 model though - yours may be different).

So, as I have taken out the third row, and we are using it as a van can I say it's a 5-seater?

😞

There are loads of hits on e bay for 4342028030 - depends on which bit you are after.

Yes, sort of - I tried but I was unable (the first time) to get the MAF out as it's in an awkward location behind the air-box. So I removed the air filter cover and filter and sprayed the MAF with a load of isopropyl - gave it a good soaking and that was it. I let it dry out and started it some time later (maybe 2 hours) with some difficulty but then it fired and all good, though a little while later the check engine light came back on. 😞 So I ordered a replacement part, which turned out to not be a Toyota / Denso stamped part, and fitted it this morning - I was somewhat stumped getting it out and initially thought there were no screws holding it in, but in fact they are tiny cross-head screws, hidden in their recesses and a little fiddly to extract (especially on a cold morning). However once removed the MAF came out really easily and I put the new part in and started the engine Ok. I then cleared the fault code (P0171 system too lean on bank 1) and re-read it, it was clear - though the engine light would normally come on after 5 to 30 mins driving so I am not holding my breath. Took about 30 mins for the replacement to be fitted at a guess, though I was faffing around with other stuff such as taking the grill off to retrieve a screwdriver that fell down there. I have attached pictures of the removed MAF and you can see the nice clean side, as well as the not cleaned side. The third picture is the best I could do to show the metal strips inside - obviously the spray didn't get anywhere close to them. As this is now a spare part I will give it a good dosing with the Isopropyl and a go with a swab then put it into stores should I need it. So my takeaway is that the MAF needs to be removed to clean it, otherwise not worth trying to do it through the filter.

Just to add that my 2005 facelift 10 creeps forward on the flat also - not fast, not quite walking speed if I were to guess. Obviously when in D and with the brake(s) off. From my limited knowledge of automatics (AA Book of the Car) it could be due to a high idle speed and / or the fluid flywheel being too full or having it's fluid not fluid enough (or too much, I guess either would do the same). I would say it's normal, but you might need to consider the ambient temperature as that may affect performance, both of the auto-box and the engine when on 'choke' after starting as mine revs high then anyway (though I am awaiting a replacement MAF sensor as I am getting the P0171 lean fuel on bank 1 message and a spray with cleaner hasn't made any difference).

>would suggest the enhanced light stalk would not be compatible, unless you ran new wiring, and changed or modified the clock spring too. Thank you, that's saved me in the region of £70. We will live with the dashboard switch then. Unless someone has successfully fitted a rear fog light and stalk control to a 2005 facelift model and can tell us all how they did it. 🙂 (I know I should be looking through all the posts but there are so many of them and mostly talking about 20 series from what I can see).

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8414042080 - it will take a time to get here, but that number will also work on the usual websites. I am just trying to find out whether it's actually worth my while getting one, or whether it won't work on a series 10 (facelift). Your model number and type are useful as it will filter items just for your vehicle.