Gamith

The OBD tool will need to support JOBD as its a version that looks to be specific to Japan, so don't be surprised if you don't get any readings from it. There is at least one post talking about compatible OBD tools, so could well be worth finding that. Oh and yes it was using more fuel as the engine thought it was running lean and kept on putting more fuel in the mix. Anyway I cleaned the MAF, which made no difference, and then replaced the sensor, which was a pain as the previous person had broken the thread and I had to get a new tap and die (M18 x1.5) to cut the thread out again.

Once a tow bar has been fitted the swing-out bike carriers are probably worth a look for the convenience - something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146405918601?campid=5338947459&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338947459&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=5431a58eeed41782dca2c27c286ba243&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&msclkid=5431a58eeed41782dca2c27c286ba243 which avoids having to unload the bikes when opening the tailgate. Of course you could always access the back of the van using the sliding door I guess.

Mine was in need of a replacement Fuel Oxygen sensor, the front one in the exhaust manifold. If you have an OBD reader it might help, my code was a P0171 system too lean (Bank 1). It would drive for a while with no light and then come on. There was a distinct smell of petrol from the exhaust.

On my, admittedly much older alphard, there is an option to always have the navigation system on. I can't recall where it is, but probably worth checking in the navigation options to see if there is a 'Navigation always on' or similar.

I got a GPS Speedometer (i.e.: https://www.autoguide.com/top-10-best-head-up-displays-for-cars) that can do KpH and MpH and doesn't drag your eyes from the road much at all. I would avoid ones that require an ODB connection, but they are capable of showing all sorts of extra info which may be worthwhile.

For these sorts of questions I would look at amayama.com, chose the correct vehicle and then get the part number, you may need to look around a bit. If you hover your mouse over a part it will show you the options under that - year and colour for instance. Once you have found the part number you can check the usual sources to see whether anyone in the UK is selling one or you can order one from amayama - which I find to be quite reasonable, though the shipping times will be long. Equally if you already know the part number you can search for it. For instance if it's part 89407-58010 that you are after it would be 20 Ukp from Amayama while ebay has one for over 500Ukp (https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw="89407-58010"&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_odkw=89407-58010&_osacat=0) while Amazon has one for just under 100Ukp (https://www.amazon.co.uk/JUNMO-AUTO-Height-sensor-89407-58010-8940758010/dp/B0DLW1554P)

Nice, well done and a great result.

Ah - yes, sorry - welcome Matt 🙂

And these for Vellfires.

I had to take a guess at your postcode I'm afraid but there seem to be a few that meet what you are after. (https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-search?advertising-location=at_cars&homeDeliveryAdverts=include&make=Toyota&model=Alphard&postcode=NR8 7AL&price-to=9000&radius=100&sort=relevance&year-from=2009&year-to=2024)

I was getting P0171 "system too lean (bank 1)" also and cleaning the MAF didn't help - the error would come back. What fixed it for me was changing the front Lambda sensor which, on mine, was a struggle as the previous mechanic had forced the sensor into place and had damaged the thread. An M18 x 1.5 tap and die cleaned up both the thread on the exhaust and the new sensor which I purchased - I would warn to be on the lookout for ones with the correct plug on the end as the cheap ones come with bare wires that need to be housed in the original socket (as the supplied ones don't stand a chance of fitting) and are bound to cause issues. I ended up getting this one: https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-anh10-anh15-24-front-fuel-ratio-sensor-34437-p.asp Which is rather expensive but arrived quickly and was a straight plug in. I also changed the fuel filter (see below) and the air filter - which may have helped but less so that the sensor I would say. Suffice to say that the emissions that it failed its MoT test on it now passes. Out of interest what are you using to grab your figures as per your screenshot?

>change at 5 min or 1 month? I am not an expert but personally I would: 1) Start by turning the engine over a few times, on a manual you could have it in gear, jack up a wheel and turn it but not sure how to approach that on an automatic. 2) As long as it turns freely start the engine and leave it to run for at least 10 mins until the oil is warm. 3) drain the oil and change the filter at that point - my guess is that whatever is likely to have been caught would have been caught by then. 4) obviously secure sump plug and refill with the proper oil 5) should be good to go - check for leaks would be the only advice, but I'm sure you would be doing that.

My reading of it says Yes - 360 UKP. Its classified as 'PLG (Private/Light Goods)' rather than Light Goods, no sign of Euro there either so those tables can be ruled out, as can motorcycles and tricycles, and I suspect that arguing that it's a car won't go very far so the only table that fits is the one you have there for the next tax year. What makes me chuckle a little is that our other car, a Hyundai Kona Electric, is currently at 0 UKP (for one more day - so I have just renewed that) but next year will be 10 UKP - though it will be increasing after that. I believe I am bringing some balance to the universe by being at opposite ends of the road tax spectrum (I can't afford a Veyron etc. so I am being realistic about the width of the spectrum). 2025-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf 2024-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf

Funny enough I was talking to a Mazda MX5 owner earlier today and told him about amayama.com and he was rather shocked that a part he had been looking for was around a third of the price on amayama. A good source it must be said.

Yey - the emissions test passed! It's booked in for the full test on Tuesday. I have changed both the offside tyres which were showing signs of wear on the inside. The new tyres are on the front and the front nearside is now on the O/S rear. The tyre people did an alignment check and found everything was within spec, though both the offsides were right at the limit of the manufacturers spec. I am rather pleased that the emissions look to be so clear cut - I don't know what the 'before' figures were but a CO and HC of 0 must be good. I'm not sure what Lambda is measuring but that is within spec also. Oh we also found that one side light (far offside) doesn't work, and one brake light (nearside tailgate) doesn't work - both are dual filament bulbs, or at least they are different brightnesses for side and braking. I have put in some LED brake light 'bulbs' which do the same job, but are quite a bit brighter. It will be interesting to see whether the MoT tester says anything - or is it just LED headlight bulbs that are an issue? Roll on Tuesday.

I will take it to the MoT place tomorrow and hopefully get them to run a quick test to see - if it's still too high I suspect I will book it into the Toyota Garage in Letchworth who do not seem to be averse to working on Alphards (maybe mine is the first one) to see what they can do. If it's Ok then I will book it in for a proper test - after that it could do with a couple of tyres being replaced (advisories). We will see.

For anyone who is interested / in need I have found that for my 5/2005 2.4lts Alphards front Lambda sensor a M18 x1.5 tap is what you want. I cleared the exhaust hole, while the same die (M18 x1.5) cleaned up the threads on the Lambda sensor - all went together though I only tightened it up a bit as I didn't want to strip it 🙂 I have since taken it for a blast up the motorway and back, plus some driving around, and it behaved itself and there was no engine warning light - which is a relief (for this time at least). Now I need to get an emissions test to see whether it has actually helped.

I have just done this and can confirm that the flashers do blink three times before turning off - either by flicking the stalk or by turning it on and off. I didn't try the hazards but I'm sure they will work also. Thank you for the heads up on this @smurf Oh yes, and mine also started at a very fast rate and needed turning down - well worth a test before going on the road 🙂

There is a very good video that goes through it all, but I just took pics. 🙂 Ah, found it.

I got a 'J1332091' from Autodoc - this one I think: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/herthbuss-jakoparts/1376214 it seemed to match the original that I got out - though I suspect that the previous one was also a clone of some sort as I couldn't find any sign of a manufacturer on it.

After that, as the saying goes, fitting is the reverse of removal. Line up the holes in the cover and do them all loosely until they can all be tightened connect the fuel line, and put the yellow clip back to secure it re-connect the electrical plug in the socket turn the engine on to test - expect 5 to 10 seconds of turnover before it fires - you should also hear the motor working (I couldn't as I have removed the front lambda sensor so it sounds like a tank at the moment 🙂 )

The coarse filter doesn't actually seem to filter anything but it would be worth a look just in case.

Once the filter has had a chance to drain (tuning it around helps) you can then remove the top and bottom caps. I used a set of trim removal tools and a screwdriver to move the cap retaining clips out of the way - not easily captured in pictures. Once the top cap is removed there is a connector to the pump to disconnect. The bottom cap holds a rubber cap to the bottom of the pump - this can fall off very easily There are then several items to swap over: top cap with fuel float bottom cap with coarse filter a silver regulator to the side of the bottom cap

Then it's the turn of the fuel connector - lever the yellow locking 'thing' out of the way an remove it - just pulling it back won't help you. Loosen and then remove the 8 6mm bolts holding the metal cover down Then it's a bit of a juggling act to: remove the fuel fuel connector and put your thumb (or finger) over the hole to stop it leaking too much lift the metal cover out of the way remove the fuel filter - this needs a little care as the coarse filter sticks out one way and the float sticks out another - I pushed the float arm in a little help Turn the filter upside down to let it drain and Let the fuel connector drain into the tank You can then see how much debris is in the tank

Once the panel is out of the way you can see the top of the fuel pump with an electrical connector and the fuel line. Remove the electrical connector first - the way it works is you squeeze the top of the clip and then wiggle it loose - the grey cap is to hold the wires in place.