wjvh

If you’re really chasing mpg just drop the speed to ~60mph and hoy the cheapest fuel you can find in the tank.

Yes, they definitely do petrol versions, I used to have a petrol one in my old petrol campervan. You need to poke around the website, see below as an example. Remember petrol is still very common and popular combustion engine in many markets even for bigger vehicles/vans so these things do exist but you might need to import or make a special order with uk importer. Good luck.

I bought a complete sliding door cable kit from a Japanese commercial seller on eBay , OE Toyota, £150 delivered within 1 week. Superb. From These limited experiences I certainly would not be put off buying from Japan. 👍

Common problem with Alphies, they’re heavy vehicles designed for well built Japanese roads, not the obstacle courses that we have over here. Price is high, I think, I assume that includes purchasing OE/Toyota parts which will add a lot to it. I believe the rear bushes are a bit of a sod to remove & fit too so that’s gonna bump up the estimated number of hours. If you don’t get these fixed then shocks and vibrations will transfer through the chassis and other suspension components and the ride will feel rough and you may end up having to replace / fix more stuff HOWEVER the tolerance on these things is quite high and unless I could actually feel the problem myself or if The issue was going to be an MOT problem then I’d put it off for another day or year or two.

That’s a good price. Can you Post details of the converter ?

Ah … fair enough. Oh dear … well at least you’re the right person to fix it too!

I’d be suspecting a loose connection or some Mishap with the new radio install. Strange that it was all working and then started to fail. Try that 15a fuse but whilst you’re in there look for any loose connections.

Try using an impact wrench (air or electric) instead of 3 foot long breaker bars; the vibrations from the impact gun help to Loosen the nuts. You’re right though, almost certainly overtightened with an air gun but this note of caution applies to any vehicle and the warning sign is having to use Breaker bars over about 1.5 or maybe 2 Ft length.

See:

Both headlights? I’d be looking at fuses. How long did they go dim for? Just a few seconds?

Item number 114437566206 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Dual-Port-2-USB-12V-Car-Auto-Lighter-Socket-Charger-Adaptor-TOYOTA-Uk-Sell-/114437566206?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

210kg of classic motorbike goes in quite easily.

I agree with Rojie, I think there is a more fundamental issue here as to how or where the water is getting into the lights. You need to remedy the source of that because simply making drainage holes is not really going to solve this long term. It’s probably just a rubber seal somewhere, can be repaired or replaced. Keep the rubber healthy with occasional wipe downs with silicone sprays, otherwise it dries and perishes and then cracks, and water can get in.

You can buy stick on kits on eBay for a tenner; gotta be worth a try. All you need to do is bridge the break with a small thin piece of copper or other conductive metal, I think these kits contain some tape with the element in it and you just bridge it over the damaged section. Good luck.

Probably the card reader thing. Trace it forwards to the cab to see what it is connected to.

I’m pretty sure that ain’t original Toyota wiring, they would use coloured wire for the outgoing (positive) line, maybe black for the ground (negative) line but not same for both.

Look on eBay for people who are breaking old Alphard’s, there are a few although they will also likely be affected by opaque headlight glass. will be cheaper and easier to keep cleaning, even to go to a professional and then, this is the important bit, to add a UV protector film or potion otherwise they do go off again quite soon.

A woolly jumper

Having done about 1000 miles last week on E10 in a 2005 v6 I can confirm that all seems fine, no impact on performance or economy, and probably negligible impact on environment.

On cold start mine revs at about 1200 rpm; takes a few minutes to step down to about 700rpm tick-over in neutral. That sounds normal to me. If engine is warm then just hits 700rpm from the start.

Aviva proved v cheap for me plus cash back if you use Quidco, so my annual premium only £220.

Would guess problem with cable; these are high wear items due to frequent use, heavy doors, quite thin cable for the job So they wear out easily. You might get away with a clean up and re-lube to fix it. If the plastic sleeve is still on the cable then lube it with a ptfe spray but if the plastic has worn through so they you’re down to bare metal cable then use a good quality waterproof grease.

Try twisting the trip knob; or pushing it in slightly and twisting it; I’d guess twist clockwise to increase brightness.

2006 v6 should be 5 spd auto. If you drive in D mode then you will be using all 5 auto gears, if you drive in D4 mode then you will only be using gears 1 to 4, hence your high revs at 60 and 70mph and low fuel consumption. Suggest you use D mode. You should then Rev at about 2000 rpm at 60 to 70mph and your fuel economy will go up quite a bit too.

YouTube ?