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Look on eBay for people who are breaking old Alphard’s, there are a few although they will also likely be affected by opaque headlight glass. will be cheaper and easier to keep cleaning, even to go to a professional and then, this is the important bit, to add a UV protector film or potion otherwise they do go off again quite soon.

A woolly jumper

Having done about 1000 miles last week on E10 in a 2005 v6 I can confirm that all seems fine, no impact on performance or economy, and probably negligible impact on environment.

On cold start mine revs at about 1200 rpm; takes a few minutes to step down to about 700rpm tick-over in neutral. That sounds normal to me. If engine is warm then just hits 700rpm from the start.

Aviva proved v cheap for me plus cash back if you use Quidco, so my annual premium only £220.

Would guess problem with cable; these are high wear items due to frequent use, heavy doors, quite thin cable for the job So they wear out easily. You might get away with a clean up and re-lube to fix it. If the plastic sleeve is still on the cable then lube it with a ptfe spray but if the plastic has worn through so they you’re down to bare metal cable then use a good quality waterproof grease.

Try twisting the trip knob; or pushing it in slightly and twisting it; I’d guess twist clockwise to increase brightness.

2006 v6 should be 5 spd auto. If you drive in D mode then you will be using all 5 auto gears, if you drive in D4 mode then you will only be using gears 1 to 4, hence your high revs at 60 and 70mph and low fuel consumption. Suggest you use D mode. You should then Rev at about 2000 rpm at 60 to 70mph and your fuel economy will go up quite a bit too.

YouTube ?

Yes, depends how you attach and detach the awning but if you use some neodymium magnets with ring pulls on the top, cheap on eBay, then I’d think anything would be possible; that’s what I used for a drive-away on my old campervan and worked better than any bespoke fitting system.

Revs are too high. You driving in ‘D’ mode? Not D3? should Rev at about 1800 to 2000 and give you closer to 30mpg.

Ben Hau. Find him on Facebook.

Boll0cks : I just Chuck the cheapest stuff I can find into my 3L v6 and she runs fine and gives me about 30mpg on long runs. These engines are more robust than you give them credit for.

I believe it will have sightly less ‘power’ by a few % as, ml per ml, it has slightly lower energy density however I suspect it would be unnoticeable as only a minority of the energy goes into turning the crank, most of it is lost as heat (also sound and light). That is vs. Standard petrol, the new 10% ethanol is also slightly down on power vs 5%, so against that even less to nil difference. Folk who have had the Lpg conversion done do not seem to complain of any loss of power.

I have to do this too at some point, also not figured out how to access the bulb although not looked properly yet. Let us know what you find out, cheers

Yes, oops, thought those were petrol. Try this: https://www.butlertechnik.com/webasto-air-top-heater-2000-stc-petrol-gasoline-kit-12v-with-rotary-rheostat-4114674a-p39/s1782?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=webasto-air-top-heater-2000-stc-petrol-gasoline-kit-12v-with-rotary-rh-41sk464&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&gclid=CjwKCAjw9aiIBhA1EiwAJ_GTSjuBb_7oheotnkvlmcLGf3if8_WS1gffSOoHqERUgJyEbl7D7AS8qhoCvnAQAvD_BwE

https://www.eberspacher.com/products/fuel-operated-heaters/air-heating see this. Will run off petrol from the existing fuel tank. It’s good but expensive and will need to be professionally installed and certified.

This sort of thing; will need to be professionally installed and certified; will draw petrol from existing fuel tank. Good but expensive . https://www.eberspacher.com/products/fuel-operated-heaters/air-heating

See also

You can get stronger (firmer) springs, I think someone was selling a pair on here recently for a good price. You’ll need to speak to a suspension expert about modding the damper units; I’d guess that if you’re not changing the firmness too much then you can probably stick with the existing dampers, but if you’re going to make a big change to spring firmness then you might need to change the dampers too. Suspension is a complex field, best speak to a specialist company as even small changes can have a big impact on handling and ride.

I think the engine would have to be running to supply heat; the only other source of energy for the heater system would be the battery but that would quickly go flat, so yes, in common with most if not all cars you will need ignition and engine on for heating. You can install kits designed for campervans but they’re expensive, cheaper to put on a jumper and a hat.

I’m getting about 25-30mpg with my 2005 3L v6 (5 spd) which is what I expected . Toying with the idea of an LPG conversion.

It would be doable but tight, made easier if you turn the middle row around to face backwards.

I’ve been quoted £2000 (that includes VAT) by a local converter. At current fuel prices I think it’ll take me 4 yrs to break even on that. Is £2k about the right price for this sort of thing? I've got a 2005 3L V6, which will require a lubrication system, apparently. thanks, Will

If you have a V6 engine this will come in handy. toyota-1mz-fe-engine-repair-manual.pdf