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The passenger mirror camera and the front camera are very easy too hook up too by the looks of it. Under the passenger seat is the IPA (parking assist controller), and on this connector..... You will find both the cameras connect to this connector, front uses pins 23,24,25,26 and the side one uses 15,16,17,16 Now all they are is CV+ (red) and CV- (white) which is the video signal itself. And to make the camera work it needs 6v feed to CB (black wire), and Ground is Ground! In the back of the android head unit there is connector C, with camera input pins for all the cameras, my back up camera is connected currently to C5/C6 and works. So just put the side one to C3/C4 and the front one to C9/C10. Well that's the theory, I'll tell you if it works in a few weeks time when I give it a whirl, but there is little doubt in my mind it'll just work but hopefully the pictures are the right way round etc.

You can easily swap over to Android head units and retain pretty much all the factory features. The chinese sellers offer a MOST converter box like this.... C-TY-24 This adapter box I paid £136.74 on Aliexpress including tax and shipping. And the Android head unit I bought was the TS10 with 4 GB RAM and 32gb storage for £157.44 inc delivery and taxes. I didn't get the great big screen option as I wanted to keep the factory heater controls. Nor do I want a massive screen dazzling me during night driving. And that makes it all just a plug in affair with the Vellfire/Alphard 20 series vehicles. The reverse camera just works, and the steering wheel controls too. And it retains the multi speaker Toyota system so you get to keep everything pretty normal. I did not have to cut a single wire, everything just plugged in. Literally anyone could do it. These android head units really are mega as they have proper google maps included, along with USB media support so you can watch all the film and audio rips you'd ever want. Along with being able to stream stuff off your phone too. The bluetooth phone is really good. The only bits that doesn't work is the rear flip down monitor, and the front grill camera and the passenger mirror camera. BUT they all can be wired in very easily. The rear monitor is the easiest by far and I've done some posts on it here...

Just thought I'd post up I got my roof monitor successfully working with my Android head unit last night.... And its actually really easy on the grand scale of things, follow this link to the other forum topic....

I've just done my 3rd MOT since I imported it. 3 years of either Radio 2, Fleetwood Mac's Rumours or Silence! Oh and if the kids are in the car Finding Frigging Nimo or Aladdin. It was time for a bit more variation in my life, and I tried 2 different a band expanders but the reception and sound quality was pretty poor. Year ago I imported this other head unit from Malasia that supported Engiish and full radio frequencies, but after many nights of messing, came to the conclusion it didn't support the amplifier and MOST setup from the JDM van. Cost me a fortune to import that too.

Well look at that.... All it actually needs is the Pin 1+2 on F14 for the NTSC video in signal. Then if you press the G button on the remote the screen pops out anyway. 🥳

Thanks for the help with some info Chris! Utter superstar! So the monitor is electrically plumbed like this is seems... So from the head its using.... F12(B) Pin 4 VMTR (Grey) - Little 8 pin plug, likely monitor activation F14(D) Pin 1 SigGnd (white) / Pin 2 NTSC (black) / Pin 8 Sheild F34(H) Pin 1 GVIF Bus - some optional Digital communication signal Notes Translated From Monitor "(F) Television display ASSY" Optional connector S2 (B), S3 (C), S5(E), S6 *17:With television display ASSY *18:No television display ASSY *10:With television display ASSY without sliding roof *11: Television display ASSY with sliding roof included And I think we can basically ignore all the MO's and MI's as they are MOST signals that send audio to the Amp, SLDI/SLDO are shields, and WUO/WUI are MOST wake up lines. So I think if you send an NTSC signal as the monitor, and then from some Toyota Landcruise tech documents I found it talks about the media system with the dual monitors in the back of the head rests... Tester Connection Condition Visual mute signal When image on Display switches VMTR to Body ground Specified Condition 4 V or higher → RSE is playing Below 0.7 V → Source is changed So I think that must be like a 5v is sent to the monitor to enable it.. "visual mute" would be monitor disabled. Maybe it flips it in and out. I'm so stoaked, even though its been a hectic week I'm going to get out there and test this out now...

If you think about how long and wide a fuel tank is, even like the little tanks on the MR2 I've dropped a fair few times. When you pour a 5 litre can into one from empty its barely an inch deep, and the fuel pickup gauze is about an inch off the bottom. So you'll never get the last gallon out, and to actually pickup any fuel while the vehicle is moving sloshing about you need a fair bit more than a couple of inches. Thus your total official tank capacity on the specs is far from what you can actually consume in the real world.

Found it started losing power on right turns, roundabouts and acceleration, but if I was really smooth it kept going. Think I got 58 litres in it that time. I've played this game a couple of times, I've been deep into the fuel light roulette a few times. I have this joke, if you ever want to know where a petrol station is, follow a vellfire/alphard because it's probably driving to one 🤣 The estimated range will be a combination of the fuel gauge measured quantity litres, multiplied by the measured average litres/km, so your driving style will effect it. If you have a speed pulse converter thing it might warp the distance calculations somewhat, unlike a mph facia swap which won't warp the maths.

I think I would like to ditch the rubbish chinese microphone and use the factory Toyota microphone that's up inside the mirror/interior light assembly. I found a few pages talking about using Toyota mic's on other models, and the have the same pin numbers and labels. This page is very good, and there are people in the comments saying it works well https://austinnam.blogspot.com/2020/11/toyota-oem-microphone-adapter-for.html Just pins 4, 5 ,6 and 19 - looks easy

@Chris.ac Yes stupid me, I've found some diagrams. I don't have a copy of "the CDROM" though whatever that is 🤣 And I don't have any diagrams with Japanese on them, mine are all western language ones. I've got everything working on the Android headunit like steering wheel controlls, reverse camera etc etc, it was all just plug and play with this adaptor box... not a single wire had to be cut or butchered which was somewhat amazing!! The only thing that doesn't work is the pop out roof monitor in the back, but that is because the kit does not connect to the connector "K" as marked on your picture as "A/V Aux", and looking at the wiring diagram its is some sort of Composite Video signal. I'm going to refit the original headunit , then bell out the signal wires for the monitor, and get my oscilloscope out on the job to see how it commands it to pop/fold up and down. With these android head units you can buy a USB connected device that creates 2x RCA video output that clones the monitor screen to the RCA outputs. If you search on ebay for "USB To CVBS RCA Video Cable 2 CVBS Output USB To AV Cable for Android TV Player" or just "USB To CVBS RCA Video Cable" they are out there for £15 ish. And the head unit already has the installed app to run the video output function here from what I can tell.... With two little girls, having the rear monitor working is mission critical in this fun bus. It is a shame this topic is in the wrong section of the forum... its some how in the 2002 to 2008 area but this is all for ANH20 or GGH20 vehicles that are 2008 till about 2014.

Hi Chris, I've got all the non JDM wiring diagrams, But I am failing to find the source of these Japanese head unit diagrams you've posted. Please can you tell me the file name of the PDF or ISO or whatever it was how you found them? I'd really love to get my hands on that document as I'm trying to wire up the roof monitor to my head unit. Thanks, Matt

I really have no fuel economy calcs done, but I can tell you I got from my house to Trac Mon in anglesey and back, on exactly one tank of fuel.... it was touch and go if I'd make it all the way home but I was deep into the fuel light and made it..... so that is 240 miles on 1 tank which took 55 litres to fill.... with a 1.4 tonne trailer, and the back of the van full of 2 sets of wheels+tyres, jerry cans of fuel, tools spares etc. Fully loaded! So doing the maths. 240 litres = 120.1 UK Gallons, so 20mpg! Which really aint bad, but it was clear all the way and an easy flat cruise. Not sure on the RPMs while cruising, its low, lazy low. These have a 6 speed box that make them cruise better. From memory the cage holds a space saver, its a pretty good one though. If you got the welder out you could make a deeper cage for a proper tyre. But my van is running 20" wheels from Lexus RX450h with 235/50R20 tyres, so it would have to be a massive cage 🤣

Hi Matt, If I could have paid that to have it done I would have jumped at that service! Can you post some photos of what they have made/fitted etc under the van? Cheers, Matt

I came to the conclusion that if I could get one cluster already in English from a vehicle sold in Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong or Russia then I could clone the data off the micro which would then make turning the JDM clusters into English straight forward, and it would also have the option in the menu to select MPH / MPG / etc.

No pictures, but just pulled spurs off the rear left cluster for brakes, side light, indicator........ and pulled 2 spurs off the right cluster for indicator and fog light. I found it easiest to pop both rear light clusters out, then I could fish some wires about without removing any plastics. There is rubber bung in the floor under the carpet on the left of the boot which I drilled a hole in to pull the cable from the tow bar into the cabin. And I used one of these bypass relay with built in beeper:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MFDM9SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For the permanent live I took a feed from the control box for the power tail gate, again you can see it if you pop the access panel off the left hand side of the boot load space plastics. There was a 10mm bolt into the body work in there too for the ground. Towing on the Vellfire is fantastic! Much better than using my RAV4. The Vellfire is nice and heavy so the trailer doesn't push the van around. I've been towing my car transporter trailer with my MR2 track car on the back. It's luxury going in the Vellfire with cruise control and automatic gearbox. Visibility is really good too, because if I need to do any tight reversing, I can press the buttons to open the electric sliding doors and tail gate so I can see really well. The only down side is the 3.5 Vellfire is quite heavy on petrol towing compared to the Rav4, but at the same time it has bags of power so you don't really work it hard.

This post is full of very good stuff! Well researched etc.

You can download Softune Workbench for MB90 here..... http://www.gaw.ru/html.cgi/txt/soft/fujitsu/index.htm

Not all clusters have this 2nd LCD driver chip on them. The clusters with the simple segmented displays just have the 1 main micro. Only these pixel display clusters have the 2nd LCD driver. I've got 4 different clusters here that I've studied. Also there is no language setting in the EEPROM (I have flipped every bit!), but there are some calibration bytes... Non JDM clusters go to 220km/h and JDM go to 180km/h. If i put the eeprom data from a 220km/h cluster onto a JDM cluster, it re-calibrates the speedo needle.

And I think all of these part numbers are most likely not stuck in 100% Japanese! 83800-58360 *THAILAND/BRUNEI/INDONESIA SPEC Cruise control-Yes (mm wave radar, brake control) (10/2011 - 08/2012) 83800-58390 CHECK PART NO.LABEL (LHD) LHD (10/2011 - 04/2012) 1 83800-58490 PHILIPPINES SPEC, CHECK PART NO.LABEL 1 83800-58320 CHECK PART NO.LABEL 1 (06/2010 - 09/2011) (LHD) (found eeprom dumps on china forums?!) 83800-58420 RUSSIA SPEC, CHECK PART NO.LABEL seen on russian forums 06/2010-09/2011 83800-58520 RUSSIA SPEC, 2014 onwardsa> 1 83800-58320 METER ASSY, COMBINATION 06.2010 - 10.2011 ANH20, GGH20..LHD..GEN -6FC 83800-58420 METER ASSY, COMBINATION 10.2011 - 09.2012 GGH20..LHD..GEN RUSSIA SPEC -6FC 83800-58520 METER ASSY, COMBINATION 09.2012 - GGH20..LHD..GEN RUSSIA SPEC -6FC 83800-58390 METER ASSY, COMBINATION 05.2012 - 09.2012 GGH20..LHD..GEN PHILIPPINES -6FC 83800-58490 METER ASSY, COMBINATION 09.2012 - GGH20..LHD..GEN PHILIPPINES SPEC -6FC 83800-58500 METER ASSY, COMBINATION 05.2012 - ANH20, GGH20..LHD .. (6FC, CVFC) .. GEN -6FC The photo at the top is from an Alphard in the Philippines. All their domestic examples are in English, they have a proper 17 digit VIN. But keep in mind not all Alphard/Vellfire in the Philippines are proper domestic ones, may are JDM imports which don't have the 17 digit VIN. They also have radios with the correct frequencies and english text!!

MB90394ha Here is the binary dump Vellfire cluster LCD micro MB90394ha.bin But keep in mind this is just the LCD controller. There is a another microprocessor that actually runs the cluster. The LCD driver just does as its told by the main micro, which takes all the button presses, CAN/MPX network data, makes the dial needles move etc. What I can say for sure is, if we could get our hands on one of these english language clusters, I certainly can clone it and write the data to another cluster

Has anyone ever seen one in the flesh? So I have gone deep down the rabbit hole, maybe watch this video.... I don't have any answers, but its interesting !

I don't run windows so wouldn't know. I run it in WINE as I'm on linux destop.

The calculator to generate these ERC codes is available free online. It is a windows program. It looks like this:- I have attacehed the EXE file below. Mafoncalculator.exe

If you want to know the model, look at the sticker plate inside the front passenger door. It says MODEL DBA-GGH25W-NFTSK-C ..... thus it's a "NFTSK" Then look it up on this list:- ANH20W-NFXGK 2AZFE 24X CVFC VFIRE 07S ANH20W-NFXQK 2AZFE 24V CVFC VFIRE 07S ANH20W-NFXSK 2AZFE 24Z CVFC VFIRE 07S ANH20W-NRXGK 2AZFE 24X CVFC VFIRE 08S ANH20W-NRXQK 2AZFE 24V CVFC VFIRE 08S ANH20W-NRXSK 2AZFE 24Z CVFC VFIRE 08S ANH20W-PFXGK 2AZFE 240X CVFC ALPHD 07S ANH20W-PFXQK 2AZFE 240G CVFC ALPHD 07S ANH20W-PFXSK 2AZFE 240S CVFC ALPHD 07S ANH20W-PRXGK 2AZFE 240X CVFC ALPHD 08S ANH20W-PRXQK 2AZFE 240G CVFC ALPHD 08S ANH20W-PRXSK 2AZFE 240S CVFC ALPHD 08S ANH25W-NFXGK 2AZFE 24X CVFC VFIRE 07S ANH25W-NFXQK 2AZFE 24V CVFC VFIRE 07S ANH25W-NFXSK 2AZFE 24Z CVFC VFIRE 07S ANH25W-NRXGK 2AZFE 24X CVFC VFIRE 08S ANH25W-NRXQK 2AZFE 24V CVFC VFIRE 08S ANH25W-NRXSK 2AZFE 24Z CVFC VFIRE 08S ANH25W-PFXGK 2AZFE 240X CVFC ALPHD 07S ANH25W-PFXQK 2AZFE 240G CVFC ALPHD 07S ANH25W-PFXSK 2AZFE 240S CVFC ALPHD 07S ANH25W-PRXGK 2AZFE 240X CVFC ALPHD 08S ANH25W-PRXQK 2AZFE 240G CVFC ALPHD 08S ANH25W-PRXSK 2AZFE 240S CVFC ALPHD 08S GGH20W-NFTQK 2GRFE 35V 6FC VFIRE 07S GGH20W-NFTSK 2GRFE 35Z 6FC VFIRE 07S GGH20W-NRTGK 2GRFE 35X 6FC VFIRE 08S GGH20W-NRTQK 2GRFE 35V 6FC VFIRE 08S GGH20W-NRTSK 2GRFE 35Z 6FC VFIRE 08S GGH20W-PFTQK 2GRFE 350G 6FC ALPHD 07S GGH20W-PFTSK 2GRFE 350S 6FC ALPHD 07S GGH20W-PRTGK 2GRFE 350X 6FC ALPHD 08S GGH20W-PRTQK 2GRFE 350G 6FC ALPHD 08S GGH20W-PRTSK 2GRFE 350S 6FC ALPHD 08S GGH25W-NFTQK 2GRFE 35V 6FC VFIRE 07S GGH25W-NFTSK 2GRFE 35Z 6FC VFIRE 07S GGH25W-NRTGK 2GRFE 35X 6FC VFIRE 08S GGH25W-NRTQK 2GRFE 35V 6FC VFIRE 08S GGH25W-NRTSK 2GRFE 35Z 6FC VFIRE 08S GGH25W-PFTQK 2GRFE 350G 6FC ALPHD 07S GGH25W-PFTSK 2GRFE 350S 6FC ALPHD 07S GGH25W-PRTGK 2GRFE 350X 6FC ALPHD 08S GGH25W-PRTQK 2GRFE 350G 6FC ALPHD 08S GGH25W-PRTSK 2GRFE 350S 6FC ALPHD 08S

There is a million speedo converter modules on the market, just search ebay for "speedo converter import" It is wired in behind the speedo cluster. It is a little box with 4 wires. 12v - GND - VSSin - VSS-out. Just cuts into the VSS wire on the back of the speedo/cluster connectors. On a vellfire/alphard, it does not remove the 118mph limiter though, because this programmed into the engine ECU software. Also is the 70mph cruise control limiter. I have a Toyota engine ECU I bought from Singapore from a non JDM spec car, and it has no speed limiter and no cruise control limiter - it runs and drives fine, no limiters BUT it gives me a ABS fault code because it has a different software version ID. I did start working on how to modify the software ID but got distracted with life.