Steve in Chester

Is this the page for yours? In which case it looks like there are two fans at the opposite end to the vent you’ve pictured. https://toyota.epc-data.com/alphard/ath20w/32538/electric/8201/ It looks like it’s part number G9230.

The cooling fan is under the seat. This thread also contains a link to a website with more details. I can’t verify this though as I’ve not got the hybrid.

I found this pdf about the workings of the hybrid system and battery removal procedure. https://www.crown-motors.com/tch/corpinfo/RBRP/images/Hybrid Vehicle Dismantling Manual for ATH20 - Alphard HV.pdf

Thanks for clearing that up. I plan on bypassing the inverter and swapping the outlets for a 12v feed for a fridge so the back would of been another option.

Have you seen the canbus decoders like in this video: I don’t know much about them but maybe someone else does. I guess they convert the communications going back an forth into a format the radio can understand.

This is an interesting idea. Did you actually try it?

We’re all the connectors on the back occupied?

Yeah the head units got a few screws holding it in. Put something over the gear knob to save the screen.

Is there anything else not working?

Voodoo makes a good point, there could be a connector that’s loose or not been plugged into the back of the head unit. If the display doesn’t change at all, and remains on whatever it was on before reverse was selected, that would make sense. I’m not sure which fuse would power the reverse camera but you can usually check there’s voltage on both sides of the fuse without removing them.

I’m thinking that the sensor for the gear position must be working. Does the head unit screen change when you select reverse? Is the gear correctly displayed on the instrument cluster? Have you checked for blown fuses?

I’m not sure what’s standard equipment to be honest as I’m pretty new to these cars. Does it beep when you select reverse gear? Regarding the mirror, is it able to open itself?

Has it definitely got the reverse camera? Is there a camera above the rear number plate? Have you tried lubricating the mirror? Something like silicone spray might be best. I haven’t got the roof screen so can’t help there.

I’ll have a look tomorrow. Would be handy if it’s there!

Where’s the socket in the rear? In case I’ve missed it.

Thanks Chris for the info. I’ve not come across these before so it’s good to know. I’ve found some more info about these battery current sensors online. Basically it’s best not to directly connect anything to the negative post or clamp on the main / starter battery. If anyone is interested there’s some general info here: https://www.samarins.com/glossary/battery-sensor.html “If a car has a battery current sensor and additional electrical accessories are connected directly to the battery negative terminal, it may cause problems, because the electric current will bypass the battery current sensor and its readings won't be accurate.” and “It is also important where to connect the wire clamps when boosting or charging the battery with a battery sensor.“ Also, there’s test information here if you need to test it: https://share.qclt.com/丰田Toyota RAV4 Repair Manual/2GR-FE Charging/Battery Current Sensor/02500310.pdf

Thanks for this, I’ll have a look though the link too. So I should connect the negative charger lead onto an earth point on the chassis somewhere convenient. I hope it’s not done any harm charging it onto the battery posts, it seems to be running fine though.

I think just drive it as normal. There are other reasons for a low idle but if you’ve just changed the battery that’ll effect things for a bit.

Does anybody know if the 2nd generation Alphards have a Battery Management System? I want to connect a CTEK charger to the battery and have always connected straight to the battery posts in the past. The reason I ask is their website has this in the faq section: The CTEK manual says: ”Connect the black clamp to the vehicle chassis remote from the fuel pipe and the battery". In the picture next to this, the black clamp is connected to the battery's negative pole. Which is correct? When you use a CTEK charger, you can use both connections. The charger should be connected according to the vehicle user manual. If there are no other recommendations in the manual, the negative or black connector should be safely connected to the chassis. The connectors on old “non-smart” chargers can spark if the connectors touch each other, which could be dangerous if this happens near the battery. Keeping the connectors apart, and ensuring the positive connection point is as far away from the negative connection point as possible, will help to minimize any risk. If your vehicle has a BMS you cannot connect to the negative battery pole, the connection must be made to the earth or ground point, if you are in any doubt then connect to the nearest earth or ground point. Eyelets can be permanently connected to the battery as the charger is not usually attached to the eyelet cable when the cable is being connected, so there is no risk. The eyelet connections also give you enough time to check the correct attachment points. Also, if the battery is disconnected or removed from the vehicle then both connections can be made directly to the battery terminal. I was planning on using the eyelets to connect directly to the two battery clamps but unsure about this BMS issue. Thanks in advance, Steve.

Modern engine ecu’s constantly monitor the engine and adjust things to ensure maximum efficiency. When you change the battery all these things will be lost from the car’s memory and need to be “relearned”. This will sort itself out with normal use.

Have you seen that Arthur has put a wiring schematic on the “reading Japanese on head unit” thread?

It’s always worth checking battery connections are nice and tight and the battery itself is in good order. Low voltage can sometimes cause spurious faults.

Did you try it on yours and did it work? Steve.

So I think it’s like this. Get in car Shut door Press engine start switch twice without touching brake pedal Shift to neutral Press lock button on drivers door for 5 seconds Locks should operate to confirm you have set or cancelled the auto speed locking. Test drive to see if it’s worked.

Apologies for not getting back sooner, this weekend has been unexpectedly hectic. Back to work tomorrow for a rest though. Anyway, my car locks the doors when I get up to a certain speed, I think this is what you want to turn off? My manual calls it “Vehicle speed sensitive auto lock”. Here are the other options you can set or cancel. And the procedure is here: