AndrewS

Hi Everything electrical on the van is working fine - except the passenger side electric windows (front passenger and side door) are not working - either using the driver's controls or the passenger controls. They just seem to have stopped. It is perhaps associated with the various other issues I have had with the electrics. Any ideas? Might it just be a fuse or other thoughts on what it might be? Some need to reset? Regards

Hi Just thought I would update my experience, which might help someone: 1) accessing the fuse box on the passenger side is a nightmare for an amateur like me. However, with a pair of log-nosed pliers, I was able to check the relevant fuse. I am not sure if the difficulties of access were compounded by the additional electrics for the camper conversion. The manual I have says contact your Toyota dealer, so Toyota clearly know there is an issue. 2) I got no help at all from my local Toyota dealer - refused to engage. I suspect it is a bit hit and miss as to whether they can be bothered 3) I found an autoelectrician in Shipley, Luke at Drive in Service Centre on Otley Road. He diagonosed what had gone on in 10 minutes: a) nothing to do with key or immobiliser b) when the AA had recharged my flat battery there had been a usual surge as all of the electrics power up at the same time c) somebody had previously done a repair on the cable from the battery to the small fuse box under the bonnet d) the battery was fine but the surge had shorted the cable and blown one of the fuses - this accounted for why the dashboard lights were lighting up, but otherwise everything electrical was dead. e) I was told that UK Toyota diagnostics equipment can read all Toyota vehicles. Toyota could have made this assessment for me. So, back on the road, no issues, but now very careful to turn off lights (and on auto). There is no warning signal if I leave my lights on.

Hi. Just an update and maybe somebody can help. I have rung round various auto electricians with very little success. Potentially the best advice is: 1) immobiliser light is flashing without key in the ignition; 2) however with the key in the ignition the light goes off - conclusion: the key is speaking to the immobiliser and so it is not an issue with the immobiliser; 3) perhaps the key is not the issue, but the central locking and some other engine cut out (eg the central locking button isn't working and neither is the key fob); 4) perhaps it is is the fuses which have blown relating to to the locking mechanism? Al sounds plausible. I now have to get at the fuse box in the passenger glove box. My manual says: "Consult your Toyota dealer when you need to check or replace fuses in this box"!

Hi Thanks Paul. As far as I am aware, it is a factory immobiliser. Until the car battery went flat I haven't ever had a problem with it, including when the battery also went flat about 6 months ago. That time I didn't have to use the physical key to unlock, which is why I wondered if using the physical key this time might have made a difference. I can't rule it out, but it would seem too much of a coincidence that the induction coil has packed up at the same time as the car battery going flat. I wonder if it might be as simple as the key battery being a bit old, but again a bit of a coincidence if it is this. I will try replacing it and see what happens. Resynchronisation might be the solution. I am pleased you think the flat battery is unlikely to have casued this. My problem is that I can't get anyone to be interested: Toyota say Alphards aren't on their system; and the auto electrics garage won't look at it for 2 weeks becasue they are busy. Any thoughts on whether a locksmith would need to have specific skills to deal with this type of thing? Another possibility might be some form of electrical interference. The van was parked next to the electric railway. who knows, but once it is home, everything might work. On one video there is a suggestion that I insert the key and turn on the ignition for several minutes. Ever heard of that?

Hi Does anyone have any experience about deactivating the immobiliser? I have had the AA to help me, but they have not been able to help. The scenario: I locked the van with my electronic key fob; I stupidly left the lights on and when I returned the key fob didn't work to unlock (though the light on the fob showed it was not the battery); I opened the van using the manual key; AA turned up and recharged the battery; however, the van would not start nor move out of park to neutral; the little-red-car-with-a-key light is flashing, showing that the immobilser is on; the AA guy had a gadget which showed that the key fob was not sending a signal to the immobiliser; the AA tried and tried, but didn't know how to turn off the immobiliser. The van is now on the back of an AA low loader and is being taken to home. It will have to stay there until either 1) I work out how to deactivate the immobiliser (and Toyota and nobody else seems to be able to tell me); or 2) a get it moved to an auto electrician in 2 weeks when they can next look at it. Anyone any ideas?! Surely it must be pretty easy to repreogramme the key or whatever? Thanks in advance.

Hi. I posted previously on this subject. I have just done about 5000km round France with 2 mountain bikes attached on a 3 bike Fabbri rack. No issues at all. That said, the lower 2 straps have worked loose initially a couple of times, so worth stopping and checking after a few miles. I probably didn't have them quite tight enough initially. I am completely new to Alphards, but I have got to say the performance has been fantastic over all these kms - 2, 4, and 6 hours sometimes: engine, drive, towbar and bike rack. My only issue is how low they sit. Parking close to the kerb was a typical, though very minor hassle - either the driver door caught; or the sliding door.

Hi. I saw some advice on this forum and then bought secondhand a BICI OK 3 MTB Fabbri Portatutto. It was £100 off ebay. It fits very well with most of the weight taken by the bar which rests on the top of the bumper. I have used it with 2 bikes and driven 60-70 miles a couple of times with no problems at all. I do feel a bit wary using straps and I wonder about the top straps going over the spoiler. However, no issues. I have also fitted a towbar for carrying bikes and luggage. I do feel more confident with the towbar set up, but will continue to use the Fabbri for bikes if I also need the towbar for luggage.

Hi. I have a 2003 Alphard and have acquired a bike rack like Bryan's (12/7 and 28/7/22). It fits well, but I am quite dubious about putting the top straps over the spoiler. It seems like there would be quite a bit of pressure on the spoiler. Any thoughts? Is it fine or is there another way of attaching them. Thanks