smurf

The maximum weight for your Alphard will be shown on the registration document as revenue weight. It comes from the information on the export certificate. For my 2003 hybrid it is 2435kg. I seem to recall from what I have read it is something like 400-500kg on top of the unloaded weight. The gen 1 hybrid has highest maximum weight of the gen 1models, but it also has the highest base vehicle weight

You need to find out what is draining your batteries. If it is just parked up with the fridge turned off, the leisure battery should not be getting drained in a week. Even then, it shouldn't drain the main 12V battery as well.

Presumably you have a camper conversion? To really know if the tyres are underrated you need to know the weight of the vehicle now, and when fully loaded. In an ideal world you wouldn't be taking the vehicle over it's stated maximum weight, but life isn't always ideal. 40psi isn't ridiculous for a camper conversion. When stopped in traffic I tend to put the gearbox in park, and apply the handbrake if on a slope. I don't like holding the weight of the car on the gearbox pawl so I use the handbrake, but plenty of people don't bother. I also don't like unnecessarily blinding the driver behind me with my brake lights. Using park rather than neutral has an advantage in my hybrid, but either or would be fine in a non hybrid.

The Nationwide cover is the same for breakdown. It covers the person, not the vehicle, and there are no restrictions on the vehicle that an Alphard driver need be concerned about.

A Nationwide Flex plus account for £18 a month gives full personal European AA breakdown with no age (or import) restriction on the vehice being used. It also gives Aviva travel insurance and there is gadget insurance as well.

Wiper arm pullers are available quite cheaply if it does become difficult to remove. Link

Only the OEM stereo will give you the hybrid info sadly

The information is all contained within that thread showing what I used, but it is attached with sikaflex 522 adhesive. It's going nowhere, even if I wanted to remove it.

Even if they make a mistake, so long as you notice promptly they can go straight on to the MOT database and change it to KM. It isn't the end of the world, and doesn't create a dodgy looking MOT history.

The Consumer Rights Act 2015 trumps any supposed 3 month warranty. Everything about the vehicle should be of satisfactory quality, as described, fit for purpose, and last a reasonable length of time. If the engine blows up in six months time you can still expect a free of charge repair on a £12k vehicle that you have taken reasonable care of. Just Japanese are a reputable dealer, so are unlikely to disappear in a puff of smoke at the first sign of any problems.

The rear heating is unaffected by the state of the pollen filters. The rear has it's own fan, heat exchanger, and aircon coolant supply. It just recirculates air it pulls in directly from the inside of the car. Only the front fan draws in air from the exterior. Are you sure the fan in the rear is running? Is it a camper conversion?

I put a plastic C rail into the passenger side roof gutter and stuck it in with sikaflex adhesive. Had the drive away awning attached in some pretty horrific weather and that C rail never budged.

The only suggestion I can offer is to connect up with Techstream and read the codes. It could be absolutely anything.

If the 4WD, VSC, and hybrid warning light (car with exclamation mark) are lit the most likely cause is a hybrid fault, not a VSC fault. If they come on after a period of driving a common issue is the inverter coolant pump isn't pumping and the inverter is overheating. Whatever the issue, you need Techstream to find out what the codes are and to get live data.

You really need to get some live data out of this car with Techstream, or you are just throwing good money after bad.