Clivus

I am posting a photo of my dashboard warning lights again, plus the fault codes that were associated with them - for anyone else who may get this problem. The car started normally, but fault lights appeared when the car was put into R or D. Driving is possible, but you may go into "Limp" mode. (And all of the strange noises come from the rear axle!) P3125 Inverter fault C1259 HV system fault regenerative C1310 HV system fault 2008 ATH10W.pdf

Thanks for your reply Jeza. Well I was way off with my suspicions. I have been told the fault code causing all my warning lights says it is my inverter - Toyota Assy G9200-58010 RA28W006. A replacement, even second hand, is priced around $4500 USD. Maybe I can find someone in Perth Australia able to do a repair .... If anyone has had this issue themselves, comments would be welcome.

I would like to hear from anyone whose E-four Alphard randomly changes from 100% front axle drive to engage the rear axle causing an audible clunk (often heard when accelerating from a standing start). My Alphard has always made a rear axle clunk when first accelerating. I have read this was a common criticism of 1st generation hybrids.

I would like to hear from anyone who has had problems with their ABS system eg symptoms, front or rear axle issues and fixes. This enquiry leads on from my previous post about reading error codes (which I have not yet been able to do). However , the display warnings have changed to red engine warning, and 2 amber lights: VSC & Brake. The car starts and drives, although I have stayed under 15kph. But a bug remains - a random clunk at the rear axle which varies in strength and sound. This leads me to think maybe the rear ABS system may be the problem. Comments appreciated. 20261025_071553.heic

2008 ATH10W: After returning from pleasant drive in the rain yesterday, I turned into my driveway and then.... Warnings lights, loss of power, shuddering rear axle. Limped into my garage. Talked to AI, because I don't have an OBD reader. Asked me to bridge pins 4 and 13 and look for a flash sequence to identify/clear the fault. No such luck. Plenty of flashing but no patterns to read. AI gave up. But I can't really, can I? After bridging pins 4 &13, the engine warning light had gone when I turned on the ignition. The engine started. Whew. But when I moved the shift into D, warnings lights low power, shuddering rear axle. Mmmm. So I would like to hear from anyone who has some time to offer advice. PS There are 4 dash warning symbols when put in gear: red engine warning and three amber, 4WD VSC & Brake icon.... Thanks

Thanks, very kind of you.

Very kind, thank you.

Can you turn off the Japanese voice over which accompanies vehicle start up (2012 Hybrid ANH20) ?

Both of these sources appear negative in Australia, as far as I can tell. I should have qualified my location.

I have just taken delivery of a 2012 Alphard Hybrid 2AZ-FE and would like to buy an Owner's Manual (or get a .pdf download). Cheers

I am closing out this thread, having found the problem was caused by a combination of 1 faulty coil and 2 unreliable spark plugs. The rough running appears to have caused a voltage drop to the electrical drive motors. The resulting jerky and almost undriveable result disguised the simplicity of this problem. Thanks to those who helped me with their comments. After replacing the faulty parts and re-setting the ECU, I am delighted to be back on the road!

Thanks Smurf. Throttle body & MAF eliminated. Looking at coils tomorrow.

Thanks to Jeza and Smurf for your replies. I agree my alternator terminology was wrong. And I don't think that is where the fault lies since the car starts normally and is charging. But the motor idle speed is erratic and the car will not drive properly. So maybe it's the main battery voltage regulator? Anyway, I'm still searching for an experience hybrid electrician who is willing to make house calls. Clivus

Dear Friends I am an ex-pat who owns and maintains a 2008 Hybrid E-Four in Perth Western Australia. Recently, the engine started to falter whilst driving, making the car jerk. This quickly got worse and although the engine will start, the car can no longer be driven. I have eliminated fuel starvation as an issue by replacing the fuel pump and filter. I also cleaned the throttle body. No improvement! No fault codes have shown up on the OBD scan! Some strange electrical faults have appeared with accessories so I have looked at both the main and aux. batteries. The main battery was replaced in 2024 and seems fine. The aux. was down to 11.6v and 13.6v with engine running. So I have replaced it. Now it's 12.6v, but still only 13.6v with the engine running, not 14.6v which I believe it should be. So my question is can the alternator be the root cause of this puzzle? Your opinions are welcome, because owners of imported Toyotas seem to be very unpopular in Perth and all I can do is read a multimeter. Clivus