dezufo

you could just change the solenoid contacts rather than the whole unit

In case you have not researched the fault code: DTC P0793, found in many Toyota vehicles, indicates a problem with the Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor A circuit. This sensor measures the rotational speed of the intermediate shaft in the transmission and sends this data to the transmission control module (TCM) to help with gear selection. A P0793 code means the sensor is either not sending a signal, or the signal it's sending is not being recognized by the TCM. Symptoms: You might experience a check engine light, transmission issues (e.g., rough shifting, difficulty engaging gears), or increased fuel consumption. Importance: The intermediate shaft speed sensor plays a crucial role in controlling the transmission, and a faulty signal can lead to transmission damage or improper performance. If it was mine I would not be driving long distances.

2.4L have a timing chain, it just needs regular oil changes

Unfortunately some insurance companies are just complete jobs worths, the reason they won't insure imports is because of expensive or lack of body panels. Admiral are reasonably priced, then there is Adrian Flux or Mark Richards Insurance, the latter specialise in imports. What you need to do if you are going to stay with your insurance company is phone them and tell them that your vehicle is an Alphard and that there is no such vehicle as an eight seater Avensis, you need the paper work to show that it is an Alphard because then the company will not have a way out of not settling any claims

IF the shaft is not bent or the balance weight is not missing, then you can get new cv joints for either end, check ebay or autodoc, jdmcarparts also do them see link https://jdmcarparts.co.uk/product-category/toyota-parts/toyota-alphard-ah10/

The EML usually comes on along with other fault lights. The VSC or Vehicle Stability Control coordinates the ABS, TRC and EFI to prevent the wheels from slipping or the vehicle skidding on slippery surfaces. First check your tyre pressures are equal as they can have an effect on the VSC, invest in an Ancel scanner so you can check any fault codes to narrow down the problem, makes life easier and cheaper if you can tell a garage what the most likely problem is.

What is it doing or not doing? Is the amber engine management light on? You could narrow down the problem by checking for fault codes with a scanner with the JOBD protocol, the Ancel JP 700 is a good scanner

If the transmission fluid is brownish in colour and smells burnt, then it needs changing. How steep is the hill? Have you tried changing down to 3 or 2 to raise the revs and see if that stops the judder?

RAC do European cover, single trip £49.91, https://www.rac.co.uk/breakdown-cover/european-breakdown-cover

Not sure which one of your pipes is fractured, but the part numbers are in the link, if you give the number to a Toyota dealer they should be able to get it for you https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/MNH10W/152414/electric/8716

Nope they only have 7seats. A late December 2014 or early 2015,(before 26th January) series 20 would be the latest for 8 seats

The Series 20 Alphard 350 X/G/S, has 8seats, GGH20W (2wd), GGH25W (4wd), both 3.5L with 6 speed auto transmission

Taken from the Wikipedia, The Alphard was refreshed in April 2005. The design of the front grille, bumper, headlamps, and rear combination lamps and garnish was updated. For the 3.0-litre model, the 4-speed automatic transmission was replaced with a 5-speed. I have a 2003 MNH15 but sadly without the LSD 4-speed automatic: U140E (pre-facelift 3.0) U140F (2.4 AWD/pre-facelift 3.0 AWD) U241E (2.4 FWD) P210 e-CVT (hybrid) 5-speed automatic (facelift 3.0): U151E (FWD) U151F (AWD)

Are you sure the dial was changed? If it is registering miles on the odometer then you probably have a chip fitted, and that 68118 will be a mix of the km before the chip was fitted, and the miles covered since. Did you get a CarVX report just to check that the odometer is showing the correct distance actually covered in Japan? Usually if it has had a chip fitted, the kmh in the centre of the dial will have the k blacked out but if the dial has been changed there will be MPH in the centre.

Yes just pulls out, do not twist as the holder will fall out behind, 5W capless or led equivalent

That looks like a standard body trim but seems to have been lifted slightly

A person in russia has done it by removing the standard trim/bumpers, see pics. You can get lift kits on eBay, but the maximum is 40mm without putting undue strain on the driveshafts.

I replaced mine, I levered out the side with the R on it then bent the whole reflector up and pulled the other hand side straight out, I then filed down the serrated bits on one side of that tab, then bent it back in to shape, then pushed the whole thing back into the slots

When I had a new key cut and programmed, the guy used a combination of opening/closing the drivers door along with turning the key in the ignition, no laptop connected, he did mention that the ecu will only accept a maximum of 5 keys including a valet key.

Thanks for this write-up, I have book marked it in case I ever need to do the same

As Rojie said, it is to help with parking

To route cable to the rear, take the kick panel off in the foot well, lift the steps up from the passenger and sliding door, then you can tuck the cable under the wheel arch trim and fish it out into the storage/jack cubby,

The tax always goes up in April, at the moment it is £345

The main problem is that the cable frays inside the door as well and fouls the mechanism, there are 2 solutions, 1) change the cable/mechanism inside the door which entails removing the door card to get at the part, 2) cut the cable as close to the door as possible, switch off the power door on the dash, then you can open/close the door manually. Part available on eBay > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176509903974

kseal can block other parts of the heating system, always best to find where the leak is. If there is plenty of coolant in the rad, and you can see it moving when cold with the cap off, then it could be blocked in the heater matrix. You need to warm it up then check the small hoses, feed/return, that are connected to the matrix near the bulkhead, if they are both warm then the valve is working, and you have flow through the matrix, if not then the valve is not working or blocked. If you have flow through then the other cause could be the air flap control disc is faulty, a known fault, it is situated behind the dash low down, above and to the left of the parking brake, a disc from an Avensis control will fit, but both units need stripping down and the discs swopping