dezufo

Interior trim is quite easy, unbolt the handle, then 2 screws at top of main trim panel, then all the others are pop in clips. Exterior reqires unbolting the lights then the trim above the number plate has pop clips, if you look on ebay you should find a camera that will clip into that square hole above the number plate

Yes I have read it as well but it's all to do with the transmission cooling on the normal auto box, the Japanese do not do a lot of towing so the box has a small cooler which is why people are advised to fit an extra cooler. Cars with an auto box that are used for towing in the uk are designed with a large cooler , I had a ford explorer, auto box, that was used to tow a horse box never had any problems with it. The problem with the cvt is due to the way it selects the speed/gear

That camera is an after market one, the original was fixed inside that opening onto the metal of the door, I replaced the original on mine as it was not suitable for the new head unit, I had to remove the trim then drill and screw the bracket into place

From an answer to the question of towing that was in a different forum see pic

there are no weights stamped on the vin plate, what you will find is that you are limited to a maximum total of 3500kg

change your tyres for car tyres, you won't see a range rover with C rated tyres and they are heavier than an Alphard, if you have a camper conversion then you could get XL rated tyres to reduce the roll on corners

Had my powdered coated wheels on for 3years with no problems, ventilated discs help to dissipate the heat

That number is the catalogue number there should be another 5 numbers for the full part number, check in the link you mightbe able to get one shipped dirct, amayama.com

Fiamma L80 bolted directly to the tail gate

There is more than one ecu, look in the link which will give you an idea of roughly where they are, https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/ANH10W/35395/electric

some head units have a built in hard drive that automatically records tunes via the disc player

Gloucestershire

No, they have also done some work on my forester

I asked a local garage if they could fit the rear bushes on my 2003 3.0L, they quoted me 3 hrs labour, it actually took them 5 hours due to how rusted in the bushes were and the fact they had never worked on an Alphard, however they only charged me the quoted price. so it is worth asking local garages or you can get the tool set off ebay, but it is easier to do them on a lift https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394133949886

best is angled long nose pliers, head torch, copious cups of coffe/tea and lots of swearing

Hi, welcome to the world of Alphard ownership. Due to the age, if there is no record of a cam belt change then get it done along with the pump and tensioner, best to do a full service oil & filter, spark plugs, cabin filter, air filter, aux belt. The engine is non-interference so no major damage will be done if the cam belt goes awol. Fog light; Option 1, replace the reflectors in the bumper with led lights and wire them up as fogs, you can get them on amazon Option 2, convert the offside reversing light to a rear fog with a red lamp, just make sure that the lens next to it is not a brake light Fog switch; you can get one off ebay that will fit into the switch openings in the dash and pick up the power from the loom behind or use a piggy back fuse off the fuse box in the drivers footwell, make sure its a switch for a Series 10, 2002-2008 Check the wiring loom behind the bumper as you might find that there is spare connector that could be used for a fog light, the cars used on the north island of japan had fogs fitted and there was also an option of a winter pack, toyota have a standard loom that just means connecting up items when specified Parts of the car are galvanized but it's best to get it under sealed. With a lanolin based underseal like lanoguard, lanoshield etc you do not have to mask off any rubber components as it will not rot them unlike the oil based under-seals, also being clear it does not "hide" any problem areas. Speedo/Odometer: Option 1: You can get replacement dials from Lockwood International that read MPH but leave the odometer clocking up in Kilometers, they are fairly easy to change and there are guides on the Lockwood web site on which dial for your model and how to change them, if you do fit a dial just leave a note for the mot tester that says the odometer reads in kilometers other wise he is likely to put it down as miles, it does not have to be entered as miles on the paperwork Option 2; Have an electronic chip fitted that converts the input signals into miles but get written proof of the initial km reading then the reading after the chip is connected as the reading can be clocked, what should happen is the initial km reading stays as is and then miles are added as and when used, so the reading is a mix of km & miles Option 3; Leave the dials as standard and use a GPS device for the speed Check the dates on the tyres, do not rely on the depth of remaining tread, when I got mine the tyres were 8yrs old but still had very good tread Check the rear axle bushes as they do rot/split although the mot should pick them up Check if there is a date on the battery as it might be well past it's best, the cars can sit around at the auctions for weeks, possibly months, then there is the time it takes to ship them, once the voltage drops below 10.5v the cells can get damaged beyond recovery, replacement type is a 005L minimum 65Ah You might want to disconnect the toll reader system it's either the slot on the dash or fitted elsewhere e.g. centre storage cubby, you can use the power to it for usb sockets, the aerials for it, top of windscreen, can be done away with and the wires used to pull other wires in if needed For parts and service items check Autodoc, Ebay, even Toyota sell on ebay, Febibilsteign, Blueprint, use the link for part numbers then use them as a cross reference Amayama.com

A scanner with the JOBD protcol needs to be used to read the codes and/or clear them, you can get a scanner off ebay or amazon, Ancell are good ones

have a look in the link for the part number, try to get a Denso as it will an oem, or a febibilsteign or a blueprint, amayama.com

check in the link https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/alphard/MNH15W/152794/electric/8414

If you use the ELM327 and pair it with the Torque or Torque Lite app it will give you live data of fuel, speed etc, you have to to input your vehicle model, you can choose what is displayed on your phone, if you have a head unit that accepts mirroring then what shows on your phone will show on the headunit screen

Very unusual for that to leak, most likely the plastic side tank on the radiator has a small crack, known fault due to age and heat, when rad is cold it leaks, when hot the plastic expands and it seals up, you can get replacement radiators off ebay that have metal side tanks

As its lighting up then going out it is most likely the bulb, if it was the ballast it wouldn't come on

The multi pin plug behind the bumper is most likely for the optional parking sensors that would be fitted in the centre region of the bumper, the other 2wire plug= no idea. The vehicles have a standard wiring loom fitted and then the options can be connected easily. There is an AFS sensor and operating rod behind the offside rear wheel, the sensor can get moisture/dirt in it . The parking brake pedal has a switch, part number = 84550-30080, see link https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/alphard/1-van-3-right-h10-2005-r-3124/electrics-4/switch-relay-computer-337

You do have a front camera, it is a split lens that gives a view to the left and right at the same time for use at "blind" junctions, not very good quality and the oem cameras are 6volt. I changed both cameras on my 2003 V6, the front requires a bit of modifying of the grille to fit but it gives a good view when parking www.amazon.co.uk/Dynavsal-Camera-Parking-Highlander-Corolla/dp/B07518B3DP The rear is fully adjustable and mounted on a small angle bracket and fitted in the same place as the original then connected to a wifi transmitter behind the tailgate trim and the receiver is in the centre console just below the head unit www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07T3C7VHB/ the reason for the wifi unit was because I had trouble locating the correct wires for the camera at the head unit. With the theatre sound there is an amp under the passenger or drivers seat that powers the speakers, depending on the model it could have upto 18 speakers. The front camera button on my steering wheel does not switch it on/off as the replacement Pioneer head unit has that facility plus I fitted a 3 position switch to control either camera and the dipping of the near side exterior mirror when reversing

Yours will be 35w D2S, replace both of them as the other one is likely to go , if the lamps are lighting up then it won't be the ballast, it's very rare for the ballast to go, just make sure the headlights have been off for at least 15mins to allow the lamps to cool down and the ballast to discharge