dezufo

The seat belt warning light is also flashing, so fasten seat belts start it up and try again if odometer still flashes then you could have a loose connection on the back or the ecu is faulty, has the speedo been checked for accuracy, when engine is running is it only the odometer that is flashing and does the eml go off

The whole mechanism has to be replaced as the cable is not available separately, look on ebay for sliding door cable assembly. what happens is the plastic outer covering on the cable gets brittle and breaks off and jams the pulleys and motor, if cleaning the runners does not make it easier then if you cut the cable where it runs in the channel under the rear quarter window it will release the tension and allow the door to be opened/closed manually

Yes too much bother or not enough knowledge, the reader has 2 wires, one is for the aerials the other is 12v + & -, don't cut that one as you can use it to power usb sockets for phone chargeing

Any oem aerials on the windscreen are for the toll card system, I had 4 on mine, the oem tv and radio aerials are in the rear quarter windows, radio offside, tv near side. the rear screen would have been connected to the headunit it was not a stand alone unit

You would be better off fitting a 12v camera the quality of the pic and the angle of view will be much better than the oem 6v

I have the Vango Cairns it has same dimensions, as long as you have the low version it will fit

By piping rail I presume you mean the rail that the awning connects to, commonly called a C rail. They come in various profiles most of them with a flat part that is screwed & glued to the roof of the vehicle, either flat on the roof or in the channel that is under the black strip

You need to get it scanned for the fault code. Any brand of scanner with the JOBD protocol will do, ordinary obd will not work. Once you have the code google it to see what the cause is, most likely is an 02 sensor but there are 2

You will need to check the wires at the socket for the existing camera you will also have to change the camera for a 12volt one

If the battery was fitted in japan then you need to change it, the vehicles sit around in the auction lots and on board the ship, a battery discharges as there are ECUs and the radio memory that all take power,. once the voltage drops to 10.5volts the cells get damaged and are beyond recovery. You need to check that the alternator is working, with the engine running check the voltage at the battery it should be at least 13.5 volts. P.S. Your pic shows the battery has at some time been upgraded to a 60Ah as the original factory fitted one was 45Ah. check the voltage with the engine off it should be a minimum of 12.1volts and running 13.5v to 14.5v. the vsr relay is there to charge the leisure battery once the starter battery is fully charged.

Thanks was not sure if that seat had a lap as I only have a 7seater, is it a tight fit turning it to face forward

Nice alternative to most, do you have 2 lap belts on the middle row seat as I see it's facing the rear and the side that has the head rest is usually the one that has the full 3point seat belt

Get it checked for the fault code(s), the fault could be a simple fix like an 02 sensor or dirty maff, but there are various reasons why the eml comes on, you could get a scanner off ebay/amazon and check for the codes as long as the scanner has the JOBD protocol

Very handy that they are that close, they are part of the same group as Longlife, you will find you can choose the "sound" and the type of exhaust tip, I got a "sporty sound" and an oval tip on my 3.0L

As already said, BUT if just draining down then you need to measure the amount drained and refill with that amount, only about 4litres drains out as the rest stays in the torque converter, you then need to do a drain down 2 more times to ensure most of the fluid is new= so run around for a week, drain, run another week drain. or pump the full amount of fluid out from the converter

Search for Longlife Exhausts or Powerflo, TIP; as you have the 2.4L you will probably have an extra cat fitted on the mid pipe, this was fitted in japan to conform with the cold start emissions test, it can be done away with as our mot does not do a cold test, So get a system fitted from the main cat back, which is part of the exhaust manifold

Very handy as a shaving mirror when camping

Yes Gen 1 are 6volt. The oem front camera is a split lens it is not 2 separate cameras, I have not seen any replacement split lens cameras for sale. I got my 12v camera off ebay, just got the widest viewing angle I could get. I got a camera that has a threaded mounting point at the rear, similar to the one in the link, I then just checked the polarity of the wires so that I could connect it to my new headunit, then fitted it in place of the oem.. If you still have the split lens and the original headunit then you will need 6v to 12v adapters, off ebay, which are available with 4pin or 24 pin depending on the connectors behind the headunit, If your headunit has been replaced and you have a split lens front camera then it will already have an adapter to go from 12v to 6v. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304354615340

Any double din unit will fit you just have to measure the width, they are fairly easy to fit but to use the steering wheel controls you need an adaptor loom, see Dynamic Sounds Ltd, the exist cameras are 6volt so you need adapters or change them for 12v ones which will be a better quality

Just replace the existing hid lamps with new ones as they will be brighter

Welcome and happy driving. You will be limited to what you can do with the front headlights as any thing that is not factory fitted could be an mot fail, rear lights anything goes so led lights will be OK

The camera button only operates the front camera the reverse camera is operated via the reverse gear switch for the reversing lights

From what I have seen on other forums there is approx 5litres left

There are only 2 fuses, 1 for the LH side and 1 for the RH side so as the fronts work it will not be a fuse. They might have removed the connector on the back of the switches on the doors, although I fail to see why they would want to deactivate the windows,

I think that switch is for lights to illuminate the sliding door step