MarkATH10W

thanks for sharing your experience. I am running 42 PSI front and 36 rear to get matching and reasonable sidewall distortion. I will puting 97+ rated tires.

1) Its an AGM battery which is sealed and spill proof and wont off gas. important for use inside your cabin. 2) Its terminal configuration is reversed compared to the commonly available batteries. Find a used battery from the wreckers that meets those two requirements, give it a shot. Cheers,

Hi All. I am currently driving the MNH15 = V6, AWD, with dual captain chairs and sun roofs. so about 2000kg empty, the heaviest configuration. 1) with 205/65/16 95H tires, I find that the tire pressues printed inside the door support area are inssuficient its almost compressed onto its sidewalls, even mroe so on the heavy front set. what are your expierences with tire pressures? 2) I find that I have to inflate front tires an additional 15% to get it to match the rear in terms of how compressed it looks/diameter on flat ground. Do you guys do this?

Thanks for the replies. 1) Id like to investigate further on the fuel related non-return valve issue. Is this something a normal mechanics shop is equipped to investigate? 2) I had a timing belt change prior to the problem surfacing; any hypothesis how this work being done could be related? 3) Symptoms indicate my engine seems to loose pressure over time while the vehicle is off, and this problem is much greater when temperatures are cold? More observations given hot/warm temperatures moving into summer. Warm/hot temperature masks the issue: After sitting overnight, long duration, engine will start everytime, however first 3-5 seconds of post ignition is irregular (low rpm). Thank you all.

Weather currently just below freezing with a few days down to -10c, generally damp. oil is 5w30 vavoline restore and protect. I have the ability to recondition my battery, so ill do that tonight. Adequate spark is what I am going after... plugs and coil. Thank you for everyones thoughts.

Update on 2) Startup in the morning didn't seem to get better or worse. I took my time to clean the MAF without damaging it, but the alcholic solution may have had additives which affects performance. As a last ditch effort, I may get official MAF sensor cleaner. and then decide if its worth a shot to replace the MAF sensor itself. Or could it be something else, such as spark plugs? A more general question: why would my MAF function differently when my engine is cold?

Hi. I previously owned the 2.4 4 cylinder hybrid as per my profile. I am asking for help for my 3.0 V6.

Update on 1) . tried to start car at work. It started, but my cleaning has seemingly made it worse, too additional time with ignition in on position for car to start. 2) Ill see how it works out tommorow morning. I will be ordering a MAF sensor if it is worse than before. Hopefully that is the root cause.

Cleaned by dunking MAF in cup with 70%+ alcohol for a while, swirling it. I resorted to compressed air and wipes to get gunk off exposed resin bulb. What I observed: pre cleaning: resin/glass bulb was covered in black coating/dust on one side (no i do not use a rechargable air filter). I did not inspect the 2 filiments inside the wind baffles. post cleaning: bulb is dark amber, but appears totally clean. I cant remember original colour of the resin bulb. 2 filiments protected by wind baffles appeared to be clean and in good shape. 1) Excited to see if I wrecked the thing and am unable to drive home from work 2) Excited to see if I fixed it tommorow morning on a totally cold engine. Thank you for all of your continued support.

half way thru a full tank of premium fuel.

Vehicle is the V6 unfortunately. plugs are hard to reach according to my mechanic.

I will inspect and try that next. I am hoping it is easily accessible. Can you tell me the theory behind MAF sensor's impact on a car starting? Thank you.

No effect. SO I guess that means its less likely to do with fuel delivery? (fuel filter, pump, can i rule out injectors?)

Thank you for the response Neville, I will try and report back.

Hi All. I noticed that when temperatures are approaching freezing and when the engine is cold such as having been off overnight it consistantly results in a hard start / longer start process: It always starts and no issues after starting. It requires key turn to ignition position for up to 3 seconds longer than would be expected from an instant start. It cranks strong and likely not related to battery issue? water remover and fuel injector cleaner added to fuel without improving the issue. this is a new issue this winter, no issue last winter. Anyone experience this issue and has resolved it? Cheers, Mark