dezufo

With reference to the unlocking of the front passenger door, it should unlock from the main lock/unlock switch on the drivers door also all the doors can be programmed to unlock when the ignition is on and the shift is moved into P, the setting procedure is in the owners manual. With regard to the side door have you checked the condition of the drive cable inside the door, or where it runs in the channel under the rear window, the outer covering cracks and splits then jams up the pulleys it could also be the drive motor inside the door. The motor you mentioned is the primary release/final close it does not actually open the door all the way, try putting the original control box back in to see if it will unlock,

Not all models have a powered door on the drivers side, my 2003 MS has no power doors

Seems a bit high for a 2.4L. I paid £338 to DirectLine for my 3.0L, as most of my no claims is on my subaru

I have a lpg conversion as well. I carry a Ranger Stork repair kit and a couple of cans Holts Tyre repair

I replaced the whole light fitting for an led one with out removing the spoiler, once the top screws are removed the whole light fitting can be removed as it is clipped into the spoiler

As has been said it is a safety feature also if the fuel flap is open it stops the passenger side door from opening fully

Undo the 2 screws at the bottom of the right hand side panel, pull out the carpet and use a flat ruler or wire coat hanger plus a torch, if your lucky you will be able to get it, if you have to remove the console again put some tape on the button to stop it falling out

Really? It seems that your knowledge is somewhat biased; to the point of failing to understand what a windout actually is. My view is a glorified sun shade, with a high price tag, that impacts on the mpg and the places a vehicle can access due to the increase in height

A wind out is just a piece of material that is conveniently stored in a tube attached to the vehicle it serves the same purpose as a seperate "sun shade", when wound out it is subject to the vageries of the wind just the same as any other "sun shade", it still needs pole supports at the front end and the built in keder rail can only be used if the awning is stored away. I would rather have a C rail and a seperate "sun shade" thus keeping the original height of an Alphard with out the extra weight, wind resistance and expense of a wind out

Neither, you can get an awning that provides shade just the same as a wind out does, but one of the advantages of useing one that fits on a c rail is that it does not increase the height of the vehicle plus it can be used when a driveaway is not attached

If you get a C rail fitted or a stiches & steel multi rail you can get small awnings that will simply slide into the rail, with very little increase in height in the case of the multi rail

For a service on the petrol engine etc https://www.severnpointautomotive.co.uk/ For the hybrid problem contact the following

Chris , for peace of mind you may want to consider fitting a digital temp gauge that way you can see what the actual temp is, I did it to my forester when the head gasket went awol and have now done it to my mnh15

Just had mine done by a local garage, he said he had to remove the engine mount to get at the bolt

I( have used Profess LPG to convert 3 of my vehicles Just used a local garage that is willing to fit owner supplid parts, I got the parts from Autodoc Both lower arms and ball joints plus tracking for £300 inc vat https://www.severnpointautomotive.co.uk/

I have no idea about the sensor ring as never looked at mine, did the person that replaced the sensor clear the fault codes?

I'd be interested in the event not too sure about the convoy

This might be a bit late but, to remove the whole unit use a flat thin trim removal tool, insert it between the unit and the lining at the end towards the rear of vehicle, push it in and it will push a metal retaining clip over, then lever that end up until it is clear of the lining and move the whole unit backwards until the 2 prongs at the front are clear, if the metal clip gets broken do not worry as the unit is quite a tight fit and will stay in place with out it

If you can get a scanner that is a JOBD (japanese protocol) you can see if there are any codes that wil give an indication of what is wrong, usually it will be one of the sensors or a dirty sensor ring or even a corroded connector on the wiring loom under neath

As Rojie has stated above, although the 3.0L has a cam belt the engine is a non interference so if the belt should go west there will be no damage to valves/piston heads. Fuel consumption depends on your driving style and there is very little difference between the 2.4 or 3.0 but as a family car doing short runs the 2.4L would better suited

Yes it is suitable, cost will be about £1200, plus extra if you get them to fit new plugs and a Flashlube system, you need to google for installers near to you, btw Stag is the best system to go for

I have a Garmin DC56 fitted behind the rear view mirror and a Garmin DC 46 on the back window, they are powered off a piggy back fuse plugged into the front fog fuse No.3 and are switched on/off, for parking, via a small round switch fitted in the dome light at the front. they can be voice activated to record video or take a picture, there is also an app for use with your phone. nearly all dashcams come with a screen so that the angle of view can be set other wise it could be too high or too low to see the incident, hth

That is to let you know that you are in reverse gear it has nothing to do with the parking sensors

I had Yokohama BluEarth 4S 215/65/17 99V fitted to mine

Apart from some minor changes like the Grille, the V on the tailgate denotes supplied by an Independant dealership and the G is a Toyota owned dealership, but there are also MZ "G editions" but that is shown on the chassis number