Gamith

Nice, well done and a great result.

Ah - yes, sorry - welcome Matt 🙂

And these for Vellfires.

I had to take a guess at your postcode I'm afraid but there seem to be a few that meet what you are after. (https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-search?advertising-location=at_cars&homeDeliveryAdverts=include&make=Toyota&model=Alphard&postcode=NR8 7AL&price-to=9000&radius=100&sort=relevance&year-from=2009&year-to=2024)

I was getting P0171 "system too lean (bank 1)" also and cleaning the MAF didn't help - the error would come back. What fixed it for me was changing the front Lambda sensor which, on mine, was a struggle as the previous mechanic had forced the sensor into place and had damaged the thread. An M18 x 1.5 tap and die cleaned up both the thread on the exhaust and the new sensor which I purchased - I would warn to be on the lookout for ones with the correct plug on the end as the cheap ones come with bare wires that need to be housed in the original socket (as the supplied ones don't stand a chance of fitting) and are bound to cause issues. I ended up getting this one: https://www.autojapspares.co.uk/toyota-alphard-anh10-anh15-24-front-fuel-ratio-sensor-34437-p.asp Which is rather expensive but arrived quickly and was a straight plug in. I also changed the fuel filter (see below) and the air filter - which may have helped but less so that the sensor I would say. Suffice to say that the emissions that it failed its MoT test on it now passes. Out of interest what are you using to grab your figures as per your screenshot?

>change at 5 min or 1 month? I am not an expert but personally I would: 1) Start by turning the engine over a few times, on a manual you could have it in gear, jack up a wheel and turn it but not sure how to approach that on an automatic. 2) As long as it turns freely start the engine and leave it to run for at least 10 mins until the oil is warm. 3) drain the oil and change the filter at that point - my guess is that whatever is likely to have been caught would have been caught by then. 4) obviously secure sump plug and refill with the proper oil 5) should be good to go - check for leaks would be the only advice, but I'm sure you would be doing that.

My reading of it says Yes - 360 UKP. Its classified as 'PLG (Private/Light Goods)' rather than Light Goods, no sign of Euro there either so those tables can be ruled out, as can motorcycles and tricycles, and I suspect that arguing that it's a car won't go very far so the only table that fits is the one you have there for the next tax year. What makes me chuckle a little is that our other car, a Hyundai Kona Electric, is currently at 0 UKP (for one more day - so I have just renewed that) but next year will be 10 UKP - though it will be increasing after that. I believe I am bringing some balance to the universe by being at opposite ends of the road tax spectrum (I can't afford a Veyron etc. so I am being realistic about the width of the spectrum). 2025-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf 2024-v149-rates-of-vehicle-tax.pdf

Funny enough I was talking to a Mazda MX5 owner earlier today and told him about amayama.com and he was rather shocked that a part he had been looking for was around a third of the price on amayama. A good source it must be said.

Yey - the emissions test passed! It's booked in for the full test on Tuesday. I have changed both the offside tyres which were showing signs of wear on the inside. The new tyres are on the front and the front nearside is now on the O/S rear. The tyre people did an alignment check and found everything was within spec, though both the offsides were right at the limit of the manufacturers spec. I am rather pleased that the emissions look to be so clear cut - I don't know what the 'before' figures were but a CO and HC of 0 must be good. I'm not sure what Lambda is measuring but that is within spec also. Oh we also found that one side light (far offside) doesn't work, and one brake light (nearside tailgate) doesn't work - both are dual filament bulbs, or at least they are different brightnesses for side and braking. I have put in some LED brake light 'bulbs' which do the same job, but are quite a bit brighter. It will be interesting to see whether the MoT tester says anything - or is it just LED headlight bulbs that are an issue? Roll on Tuesday.

I will take it to the MoT place tomorrow and hopefully get them to run a quick test to see - if it's still too high I suspect I will book it into the Toyota Garage in Letchworth who do not seem to be averse to working on Alphards (maybe mine is the first one) to see what they can do. If it's Ok then I will book it in for a proper test - after that it could do with a couple of tyres being replaced (advisories). We will see.

For anyone who is interested / in need I have found that for my 5/2005 2.4lts Alphards front Lambda sensor a M18 x1.5 tap is what you want. I cleared the exhaust hole, while the same die (M18 x1.5) cleaned up the threads on the Lambda sensor - all went together though I only tightened it up a bit as I didn't want to strip it 🙂 I have since taken it for a blast up the motorway and back, plus some driving around, and it behaved itself and there was no engine warning light - which is a relief (for this time at least). Now I need to get an emissions test to see whether it has actually helped.

I have just done this and can confirm that the flashers do blink three times before turning off - either by flicking the stalk or by turning it on and off. I didn't try the hazards but I'm sure they will work also. Thank you for the heads up on this @smurf Oh yes, and mine also started at a very fast rate and needed turning down - well worth a test before going on the road 🙂

There is a very good video that goes through it all, but I just took pics. 🙂 Ah, found it.

I got a 'J1332091' from Autodoc - this one I think: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/herthbuss-jakoparts/1376214 it seemed to match the original that I got out - though I suspect that the previous one was also a clone of some sort as I couldn't find any sign of a manufacturer on it.

After that, as the saying goes, fitting is the reverse of removal. Line up the holes in the cover and do them all loosely until they can all be tightened connect the fuel line, and put the yellow clip back to secure it re-connect the electrical plug in the socket turn the engine on to test - expect 5 to 10 seconds of turnover before it fires - you should also hear the motor working (I couldn't as I have removed the front lambda sensor so it sounds like a tank at the moment 🙂 )