Gamith

Just got our renewal from Privilege, last year it was 632.25 and this year it's 523.80 - quite the difference. That's with a multi-car discount, 10k mileage 'allowance' and breakdown cover. It has a 'modification' which is a caravanette, which was the closest I could find in the drop down list - though it's more like a van we can sleep in.. Just done the Adrian Flux website and got!: Your Indicative Premium £1374.54

You will need a low-profile mini (bottom left) fuse:

Looks like it's a 15A fuse in the passenger side - fuse no. 3.

What triggered this was an auto electrician saying that the indicator on the dashboard didn't work to show that the battery wasn't charging, but looking at the options I don't think that light exists. By the looks of things I would have to rig up a 12v battery tester and test each LED to see whether it E'd any L. Judging by the labelling there are at least 92 of them - at least they have the anticipated current direction marked, so that's handy I guess. Then of course there would be the soldering. I don't know which of the two options would be best - replace or put new LEDs on top of the existing ones.

Replacement is the reverse of course, though I may need to tweak the pointer positions, as the car was turned off I set them all to their home / zero positions

And that is the point that i gave up on identifying what dashboard bulbs didn't work as the sods are soldered directly onto the board. However I was able to take a picture of the dashboard with no backing so I could see all the lights I could have: I don't think I have the VSC, TRC, AFS, Lane assist or the 'beachball on your lap' indicator systems though. I DO have the cruise, and others though.

The underside of the board. If you look carefully you can see the slender motor spindles for the 4 indicators.

VERY IMPORTANT Before moving the circuit board note that there is a very delicate set of pins at the bottom of the board - i used a trim tool to gently lever the board free.

The circuit board looks like this. Please note that there are no screws holding this in place - just a single clip in the middle that is just visible to the left of the black motor in the middle.

There is a connector on the left side that can be disconnected. Hopefully yours will have a better focus than mine 🙂

You can then remove the indicator umm pointers? there must be a proper words. I didn't do this - I removed the back panel and wondered what the noise of falling pointers was.

There are a series of 8 clips to remove the front cover - four on the top and four on the bottom, I released the top ones and then the bottom, but hey - you do you.

Congratulations - the panel is now out. You will see four screws that need to be undone (top left and right, bottom left and right) - once more my crosshead screwdriver was able to do these.

Removing the panel itself means these two connectors need to be disconnected - there is a central lever to push in on each and then they can be loosened and pulled free.

Next with a crosshead screwdriver remove three screws - one at the top and then two at the bottom.